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About GoldenBeaR6

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  1. I got it sorted out through a bunch of cable adjustment. It's actually impossible to mount it on the inside of an '84 XR80. It goes on the outside of the frame. Now I have to take it all apart again because the gasket is leaking. I probably didn't clean off the old one well enough.
  2. Everything inside the cover is OK, I believe. I had my buddy email me some pics of his XR100 just now. Does the "receiver" piece that holds the clutch cable just above where it meets the actuator arm mount inside or outside of the frame? Mine was mounted outside, my buddies is inside. I suspect that's my problem.
  3. Hi folks, The last thing I need to do to get my 1984 XR80 in running order is sort out the clutch. I bought a new lever/perch/cable. The clutch plates are free and oiled. But the cable just doesn't seem to pull the actuator lever (on the clutch cover) far enough up to disengage the clutch. Can anyone explain the procedure to properly adjust the clutch cable? It would also be extremely helpful to see a close-up picture of how the bottom of the clutch cable attaches to the perch attached to the frame. Maybe mine is too small or bent? Thanks in advance!
  4. okay, i think i understand it now. the lever presses down the whole square piece which allows the back plate to move a little and free the friction plates. however, i couldn't get it to budge unless i stood on it (185lbs.) does that amount of force required seem a bit much? should i be able to compress the springs by hand?
  5. Please help me understand how the clutch is disengaged on my XR80. I understand that when the lever at the handlebar is pulled, the lever inside the clutch cover presses inward against the pushrod in the center of the clutch. But then what happens? It doesn't seem like pushing the pushrod moves anything at all. How does this relieve the tension of the clutch springs and cause the clutch to disengage? Am I missing a part? I've included pictures of what I'm looking at, as well as the bikebandit schematics in case you want to refer to parts by #. Thanks in advance!!
  6. Hai guys!! I'm moving on over from the XR80 forum because I just acquired an '01 XRR. I plan on doing a SuMo conversion, and want to start with the wheels. I've been searching a lot on here, but a lot of the information is 5 years old. Is central wheels in the UK still a good place to buy wheels? Where did y'all purchase your setups? Is there a consensus on exactly what brands/sizes I should choose? Gracias, Chris
  7. Valve adjustment is super easy, and I also think it might be your problem. Take off the case cover over the flywheel. Remove the valve cover on the top of the engine (2 bolts). Turn the engine over using the kickstarter or whatever until the T on the flywheel lines up with the little arrow at about 2:00 next to the flywheel. Make sure both valves are able to jiggle a little bit. If they don't, turn the engine over one revolution so that the T lines up again. Now, they should both jiggle. Use a feeler gauge to adjust the gap to 0.002" (if i recall correctly). Tighten the nut and re-check. Put everything back together. Any service manual will describe the procedure, as well. Very easy.
  8. I got my bike without a front brake lever and was able to get it off the drum. So I would imagine taking it off the lever would get you a little extra slack.
  9. What you are replacing is #4 in the 2nd link. 1) Remove flywheel with flywheel puller 2) Unscrew 1 screw holding on points and the 1 attached wire 3) Screw on new points 4) Put flyweel back on 5) Turn flywheel so that the 'T' engraved on it lines up with the little arrow at about 2:00. You will see that the points open slightly as these two things align. You may want to observe this before you take off the points currently installed. Use a feeler gauge to adjust the gap between the points when open to .012 - .016 inches. This can be kind of annoying. 6) Enjoy your nice big blue spark
  11. much less likely than your points have worn or gotten some gunk on them.
  12. points. $21 at the dealer for a new set. read this:
  13. don't buy the cheaper one!!!!! see my other thread. I bought a cheaper one, stripped the threads on the puller, then had to wait a week for the motion pro one to arrive. Pay the extra $2.
  14. I am pretty sure I am now the owner of this bike for $80. I replaced the air filter, cleaned the carb, replaced the points, adjusted the valves, added oil and gas, and she started on the first kick. Now it's time to start cleaning it up!
  15. I think we're talking about a different kind of puller. That would work for the one piece puller, but not this kind. You have to tighten the inner bolt against the crank while holding the outer one.