Archangel

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About Archangel

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  1. 2006 610 has a thermostat (thermo-switch), shows up as item 34 on page 26 of the parts manual.
  2. Yeah, the commercials are going to be special machines and they usually have a disclaimer running across it. Racers are going to have spent a long time and experience waterproofing the bike. Lots of duct tape and silicone seal. I had a look at the manual and parts book. I'd be building up a dam of duct tape around the top; waterproof grease around the filter seam where it butts up to the wall and around where the carb manifold and the filter box meet. I'd also drill a couple of drain holes (3/32) on the bottom corners of the box. (I'm taking my experience and putting it on the pictures, if you get an answer from a racer, go with that.) Still not sure that's your water source, just something else. If water could get into the oil from the carb, so could fuel. You would have noticed that. If you had stalled in deep water and restarted, that's a different story. You made it through and it kept running, that says something different. Double check your emission vents. If you are still under warranty, take it to the dealer. From the sounds of your mechanical skill (with respect) versus the risk to your bike (and wallet), that would be the cheaper, safer route.
  3. I wouldn't be riding until I had resolved where the water came from. On my 250cr I've done water crossings at seat height, not quite on purpose, without water into transmission. Can't see enough water from airbox getting into tranny without seriously fouling plug. Tranny vent usually is high pressure not vacuum so shouldn't be that. See if there is any fluid in it and route it higher. The whole purpose of seals and gaskets is to keep the insides free from contamination so this isn't a trivial problem. Look for gasket leak more on the top in a place where water can gather and leak in. Milky suggest water, I think coolant would give it a different colour. flyred is right, water won't lubricate metal and will rust a bearing pretty quickly. Warranty is there, go to dealer, show the oil if you saved it.
  4. Sounds like you're describing the MH series for the 360 and 400 models. If that's all you see, that's it. The 250 has a third wire to the frame. The motoplat has two leads going into the coil. Use a plain business card to clean the points at their tightest. Set the gap at its widest at .014"-.018". Shiftless Swede covers it best.
  5. If you don't mind my asking, where in Ontario are you and who do you deal with? It's cool if you want to stay private, too.
  6. I'd go with this. If the dealer is close by, let them check it out. Otherwise it's not too hard to refine the float action, it's not much more complicated than the toilet float. The complicated part looks like taking the carb off (I'm just going by the manual pics). Make sure the floats move freely. Make sure they shut the valve at level. (I'm going to ask about the vents on a new thread or search.)
  7. Weird. Anyway, peace and respect. I'm not upset. Not sure how you got that impression. It's all formulaic, nothing to get upset about. The bike is running again, it's all good.
  8. wasn't flaming, don't intend to. he went the way people directed him, that was my point. lost me in that last turn with the honda thing: he came here for help with his husky, that's what this board is for, right? Me, that's my husky in the original Elsinore ad, bought it from the guy in the picture. That was my '72, I've had a '77 and a '79. I've paid my dues. I'm here to learn more about the SM610. I've seen better welcomes.
  9. I haven't had much chance to research if the US EPA stuff is significantly different from the EU. They go blazing fast with theirs on. Something to think about. I looked at your pic first thing this morning and rushed off to work, I was a bit late but I'm my own schedule today so I could make it up easy. The plug isn't dangerous hot, I didn't mean to scare you. It's actually quite a safe colour for what you were doing. The problem I'm seeing is if you do go for an hour long, fast uphill run, it may be too hot. I would suggest that now that it is running, find a quarter mile slight uphill and blast it. Check your plug at that point. If it was toast and you would eat it that colour, it's probably fine (unless you like black toast, then go with normal people, ha). The gap was a guess from the perspective of the picture, something to check. What did surprise me about the plug was that it was not black, oily. It's actually pretty clean which leads me back to the reserve or water answer. I'm glad you got it running. My suspicion is you forgot to turn the reserve on, got embarrassed, forgot the starting procedure and got more embarrassed. Have I done that, oh yeah, more than once. An engine only needs three things to run: everything else breaks noisily or visibly. It's more than a zen thing. If it breaks down again, there may be no taxi, thumper board, witnesses: just you, and your bike, any bike, at the bottom of a gully, axle deep in mud and millions of mosquitoes. ...and some people never want to leave their office.
  10. Careful with the "noob" designation, bucko. It's been a long time but I was once a licensed motorcycle mechanic and raced MX for about ten years. Why would I insist on going back to the basics? Look at the original question: help me get it started and understand what happened. That's what he's asking. Now, the answer to your question: when it happens 70 miles down the road, he still won't know what to look for, will he? I'm glad to hear he got it running but now nobody knows if it dried out by itself and that fixed it. Did the clean gas fix it? New plug? Untangling a plugged vent? In terms of knowledge, he's no further ahead, and he's voided warranty. It's just a machine, understand the basics; isolate the systems; break down the components; get it running again. Then, once it is running, you make it run better one thing at a time.
  11. It's way early in the morning for me but, looking at the spark plug, it looks like you were starting to run hot or had been under load. It's at the outside edge of good. The gap looks too big in the picture. Me, I wouldn't have done all those things yet. You really want to change one thing at a time in order to learn and find the specific problem. Change plug, check for spark before putting it in. Try it. Water in gas is a good thought, drain plug. Try it. Then check other things one at a time, hint: if it ran to downtown, it's not likely to be any vented thing after three minutes of riding, unless something got crimped locking and parking or stuffing gloves in tight space kind of thing.
  12. It's been a long time for me since I worked on these but...take time to learn what controls each stage of the carb's function. Basically, once the throttle is turned, the air screws no longer function, other jets take over. Your problem is in the transition which, I'm pretty sure, is controlled by the needle. I would suggest moving the needle up or down one position at at time until you get what you want. (It's too hard to tell you to move needle down by moving clip up.) If it idles fine, you don't need to change anything. If it runs fast smoothly, you don't need to change anything there. If I remember correctly, there's really only four carb positions in terms of what the jets are doing. Disclaimer: even though I looked at the parts manual, somebody needs to review what I said in light of techno changes. I'm old school, the principle is right, the tech has changed.
  13. reserve fuel cock off? You shouldn't have had to lay it over to get fuel from one side of the tank to the other. Then, when you get gas, you're nervous and use the throttle and it floods. Here's my most important wisdom to a newbie: when engines stop, go pee or smoke or something and then stare it down while meditating on the trinity. There are only three things that can go wrong, everything is a variation of those three essentials: fuel, air, and a spark at the right time. No rain, water or mud so probably not spark or air. Electic turned over, so probably not spark but check clip in case it vibrated off (had that happen). Check plug, if toast was that colour would you eat it, if yes then probably okay. Gap won't change while riding, well it would make a big noise and stop suddenly. Most other issues would also stop noisily. So I figure fuel and then flooding.
  14. In '77, I bought a brand new 250cr. After a few races, had a bad crash, was knocked out cold. Still suffer lower back pain today. In '79, bought a new 250cr early but got it two days before first race. Another bad crash, thought I was dead until I realized I was still thinking... Still suffer upper back pain today. In '83, looked at bank account and two kids and no food, no job and figured probably good time to stop racing. Now, I'm starting to figure out how to start up again. Somebody else got it right, you are in way over your head just going into a Husky dealership. You don't get it and probably never will. Be happy, somewhere else.