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William1

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About William1

  • Rank
    TT Moderator

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Virginia
  • Interests
    Motorcyclist, Italian exotics, woodworking, naps (I am over 60 after all) Irish Setters and Sammiches

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  1. William1

    2002 CR125 I want to govern for my son

    +2 your boy will do fine, just ask him to take it easy, like any kid with a throttle will do that! Do low speed skill drills. Get him to master throttle control. After a month, he will want a big bore.
  2. William1

    possible engine swap?

    With a 35 year old bike, it is not worth the timn or money it will take to try to do a swap. Part out the bike you have and get a runner instead. It will be a lot cheaper and less aggravating in the long run.
  3. William1

    Extended Air Fuel Screw

    Sure thing! I'd definitely speak to a person though as I did not see a definitive list for your bike and that part, though I am pretty sure it is available.
  4. William1

    2016 rmz250 repair manual

    It is a dealer/oem parts supplier item.
  5. William1

    Extended Air Fuel Screw

    TT store may have them. I did a little looking and it looks like they have/can get them. All my other sources (old links) are not showing them. I'd email the store and ask. Or you can try James Dean Jetting.
  6. William1

    Suntop Trail: I'm taking it back

    Yeah, I do not see any exceptions when it is public funded land. I have seen many posts where people complain when a logging company has leased property and people get all worked up about having a hard time accessing it. Land, someone leases and people are bent they cannot go on it. Or even cases where a chunk of land is privately owned and the owner decides to block access (for what ever reason). You lease it/you own it, you have the right to control access. Public land is yours AND mine.
  7. William1

    Extended Air Fuel Screw

    Neither one of those will fit your carb, those are for the FCR-MX. What model and year XR? I understand not wanting to get burned or fight the PITA the stock screw location is. All my FCR-MX equipped bikes run an extended screw.
  8. William1

    Suntop Trail: I'm taking it back

    I have to say, a public trail is a public trail. Trying to hide it and not share it is too close to taking tax payer money to build a pool and then not telling anyone you have this great pool, just because you want to keep people out. Same mentality I've seen by surfers, trying to 'claim' public beach and surf. Or a guy with a beach front home trying to keep people off of the public beach.
  9. William1

    Extended Air Fuel Screw

    It is a fuel screw on nearly all 4S bikes. It is used for fine adjustment of the idle mix only, above idle, you change needles and near/art full throttle, the main jet.
  10. Manual.. The reason for automatic is easy of assembly (no adjustment needed) and ham fisted mechanics that tend to over tighten manual ones. A manual tensioner, set right, generally does not need to be touched unless the engine it torn down. Cam chains last a lot longer, the chance of a chain jumping a tooth is greatly reduced. Manual setup. Finger tight. Start engine, loosen the hear 'can of washers' tight by finger until the 'can of washers' sound just goes away. You'll still hear some noise but there is a big difference. DO NOT tight to remove all noise, that would be over tightened and will destroy the chain in short order. Once set, they very rarely nee to be readjusted.
  11. It will fully charge it, it will just take longer. For simplicity, lets say you have a completely dead 50Ah battery and a 1 amp charger. It will take 50 hours more or less to charge it. A 100 ah battery, 100 hours. You have a 3 amp charger and a 55ah battery, that means it can take 18+ hours to charge it. A 100 Ah battery, about 34 hours.
  12. William1

    Paraffin based chain lube

    A racer runs a non-oring chain because it has less drag. Any thick lubricant (grease or wax) adds drag and collects dirt. The racer that can actually make use of the lack of drag of a non-oring over a oring chain also replaces it constantly, as often as some change oil. For the rest of the world, a oring chain is what you should run. Back in the 1960's, we did not have oring chains. So for regular people, it was a constant cleaning in kerosene and then soaking the chain in a pot of grease heated on a hot plate. Take the chain out, hang it from the rafter over the pot over night to cool. Sort of like air filter rituals today. Total PITA. Then tacky spray lubes came on the market and soon there after, oring chains. A quality oring chains, kept more or less clean and properly adjusted will last a surprisingly long time. The only lube I apply is to prevent rust. Some clean this 'storage coating' off before a ride to avoid dirt adhering.
  13. William1

    Micrometer reccomendations

    Most if not all micrometers are 100% accurate. What sets them apart is how they 'feel' (the action) and durability of the markings. Nature of design (simple threads per inch) makes them always accurate. They are not like a vernier where the mechanism matters. If it is going to be used by a 'guy in a garage', even a Harbor Freight is perfectly fine. You are working in a machine shop, pony up for the top of the line. Same reason a dealer mechanic buys top shelf tools and a guy at home is fine with less expensive ones.
  14. Get rid of the 'seal savers'. All they do is trap debris and add stiction.
  15. William1

    Ttr50 timing

    On many bikes, as you rotate the crankshaft in the direction of running rotation, (clockwise, the first set of mark(s) is cam timing, the second, TDC. You need to see a service manual to be positive. Often, the double marks is the cam timing ones. But you need to check a service manual to be positive.
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