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      JUST IN!   04/24/2018



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About saxon

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  1. Seriously cool stuff and very neatly integrated.
  2. A larger carb with no other change to get more fuel through will, as said by others on this string, make you go slower unless the motor is wound out all the time (e.g., flat tracking). A bigger carb is only indicated when either a) honda made the stock carb too small (the TLR200 comes to mind; I think that was only 19mm) or when you've changed the throughput of the motor (porting, cam, valves, and/or high-comp. piston, etc.). The TLR200, by the way, had fantastic throttle response; smaller carbs often work that way. Having the capacity for getting more fuel in (larger carb) does not mean that you get more fuel through anywhere other than WOT. This is a huge simplification but more power is a three step process: in, through, then out. Rarely does changing only one of the three increase HP or throttle response (the exceptions being a port job and/or a high-comp, larger bore piston). If you put a large carb. and an open megaphone exhaust on a stock motor, it would look cool but wouldn't run very well anywhere except WOT and even there the HP increase would be negligible. Everywhere else in the powerband you would lose both HP AND throttle response. In other words, if you care about throttle response and you aren't riding a TLR, leave the stock carb in place, buy the pipe, rejet the carb, move the needle clip, pull the snorkel (if it has one) and call it good. Or read this for more ideas: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=627701 If you really want to change the carb, try to find a TM or PWK series, flat slide Mikuni in the same size as your stock carb but I doubt that the TMs or PWKs get that small.
  3. Needing a part is taboo? Huh? I agree with you - I don't see the logic in such a prohibition. How do you 'flag' a suggestion to the moderator? I spent a few hours writing the "how to set up a 2-shock swingarm" article, too.
  4. You got a Sudco cast manifold? Was that in their catalogue? I'm not even sure what that would look like - I had to have mine made from scratch.
  5. Other way around. If you bore the motor, you may to need to rejet. If you use an OEM standard compression piston (the max. size is 1mm over), you should not need to rejet. If you use a 1.5mm over, high compression Wiseco piston, you will definitely need to rejet. If you change something (remove snorkel or add a K&N and/or SuperTrapp) you will need to rejet but you do not have to bore the cylinder. A few hundred bucks would get you jets, a K&N, a Wiseco 12.0:1 compression piston, the top end gasket kits, and, I think, a bore job. Just barely. You would need a better exhaust at that point, though. btw, this assumes that you do the disassembly and reassembly by yourself. If you need to hire a shop to do motor work, then buy jets, a K&N, and a SuperTrapp and call it all good.
  6. I will use the OEM steel valve retainers, not the new aluminum ones. If this was a 11,000 rpm road racing motor, I might think about using aluminum for weight reduction in the valve train but I don't think that the xr185/hybrid motor will do quite that many Rs.
  7. I think that most off road riders DO use them; I'm the exception not the rule. When you buy them, remember to get two of them or else your rear wheel will be WAY out of balance. Rim locks, even smaller ones, are quite heavy (which is exactly why I don't like them).
  8. Curious to hear more information about the new carb. even if you did do this a long time ago. In particular, what size and model carb. did you buy and what main jet did you settle on? My guess on the carb model is a Mikuni VM26. Am I close?
  9. I have LOTS of pics of each step of the project. Alas, I think that I do not have the right kind of account to post pictures here. If I can post photos as a "TT Member", then I don't know how. Of course, on a different list I'm on if a post gets elevated to a sticky (my 'parts supplier' post just did) you get a free membership for a year. I think I spent about 4 hours total on that post and I just added a bunch more to it yesterday. http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=627701. Btw, I would be okay with posting a complete photo history of the process if I can get the photos uploaded to this site. Moderator? Well, its a nice idea anyway.
  10. I would add that your float valve seat and/or needle might be really worn and in need of replacement.
  11. 12:1, 66mm piston 28mm Mikuni VM smoothbore with fabbed(sp?) aluminum intake adapter; (main jet at last use was a 260); Different style needle jet; K&N air filter about the size of a recent Harry Potter book hand-made large diameter front exhaust piece 3" steel Supertrapp muffler (not very sexy) with about 17 disks (as many as will fit on the center bolt); I may change that to a reverse cone megaphone as long as I am on a track 1983 XR200R engine cases (black) Tsubaki HD cam chain Stainless steel Kibblewhite valves; 1mm oversize intake valve Intake valve seat cut for larger valve 5 angle valve job full port and polish of cylinder head tracts and combustion chamber; Megacycle cam (not the needle bearing model) R/D valve springs with aluminum retainers (I may use the EOM steel retainers); three piece metal OEM head gasket (I always blow out the old fiber ones) New transmission shift forks and new shift drum end piece; all new shims and washers on the two transmission shafts, all new transmission bearings; XR185 engine and frame electrical parts, new oil pump, and all new OEM oil seals. Oh, and I'm not quite done yet. For more info., see: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=429783
  12. Depending on who you bought the carb from, you probably have it perfectly jetted for a 200cc TWO stroke. In other words, the jetting will be miles off for an xr200. Not only that, you probably also have not only the wrong size but also the wrong kind of needle jet. You might want to look into that. You didn't say what size or kind the new Mikuni is. TM? VM? 26mm? 28mm?
  13. http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=627701 Works Performance, Hagon, and maybe Progressive Suspension.
  14. See: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=627701 Works Performance, Progressive Suspension (maybe), or Hagon.
  15. How to set up your rear swing arm on a dual shock bike: btw, I hope no-one on this list races in my classes; I’m telling you all my secrets. Not sure if that’s a good idea... Anyway, this is in response to a post on the subject of “Swingarm Bearings” http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=619190 The main benefit of using any kind of up-grade for your swingarm bushings or bearings is not a reduction in stiction but a reduction in play. A properly set-up swingarm will not have any stiction (see process below). The OEM bushings in the twin shock XRs are made of a black plastic composite material. Even when new, the OEM parts will have some small amount of play even if the swing arm is adjusted correctly (which they almost never are). So, here is how to properly set up a twin shock rear swing arm: 1) buy new OEM cruddy swing arm bushings and also the collar (or collars if you have two little ones) from Honda. If you can find them, buy bronze bushings (my preference) or needle bearings instead. You should at least replace the collar or collars as they are very easy to remove. Also consider replacing the two or four end caps; if they are worn or more likely, if the rubber seal is broken, dirt will get into the pivot area and ruin the point of all of your work on this. If you cannot afford to replace the above mentioned parts, this process will still aid in correctly setting up your swing arm. 2) buy some moly 45 or 60 grease or paste. I use this: http://powersports.honda.com/the_goods/parts_and_service/detail.asp?ProductGroup=Assembly+%26+Repair&PartId=08734-0001&PartValue=Moly+60+Paste&TheGoodsDir=2 3) Place your bike on a milk crate or whatever stand you use and MAKE sure that the stand is not touching the swingarm. 4) Remove the rear wheel, remove the rear brake torque arm from the swing arm, then remove your rear shocks completely off the bike. 5) Test for free movement and play. 5 a) lift the swingarm up and down; does it move freely? Probably not but if it does its probably sloppy. 5 with someone holding the bike so it doesn’t fall off the stand, try to move the swing arm side to side, then try twisting it. Does it move ANY way other than just up and down? It probably does unless the swing arm bolt(s) is over torqued. 6) Remove the swingarm bolt(s), then remove the swingarm. Remove the collar or collars. If you are replacing the OEM bushings, remove them. This will be VERY difficult to do and I may address this in a future post. Honda used to make a special tool to aid in this process but I’m sure that its been long since discontinued. I have one – maybe I can photograph it. Whatever. Replace the parts that you have decided to replace. If you are not replacing parts, then clean everything. Be mindful that the rubber part of the end caps will be fragile and may fall apart during cleaning. I do not suggect using any chemical cleaner on these. Use lots of the Moly grease during assembly, obviously between the bushings and the new (or at least cleaned) collar(s). 7) Reassemble the rear swing arm (without the wheel, torque arm and defiantly without the shocks). 8) Install the swingarm pivot bolts or bolts and torque to the factory specs. If you have a zerk fitting, grease it with Moly grease until it oozes out the grease caps. 9) Here is what they do not tell you in the manuals. Try lifting the swing arm. Does it move freely? If yes, then tighten the bolt by 2 ft./lbs. Now does it move freely? If yes, tighten the bolts by 2 ft./lbs. again. Did the swing arm NOT move freely the first time? Then loosen the pivot bolt by 2 ft./lbs. This should be obvious by now but you want the swingarm just tight enough so that it moves up and down freely without sticking. Btw, if you need to go outside of the standard torque range, you probably have something else wrong. You don’t want the pivot nut to fall off. If it does, you will crash when the swing arm falls off the bike. You will want to use a new cotter pin on this nut if your bike has a hole for one. 10) Replace the torque arm, the rear shocks, the rear wheel, the rear brake cable/arm. 11) Torque all of the items mentioned in step 10 to OEM specifications. 12) Enjoy knowing that you have the only correctly set up XR rear end in town (other than mine). 13) Smile.