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ptgarcia last won the day on February 6 2009

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About ptgarcia

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    Riding, off roading, camping, fishing, shooting

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  1. There's no reason to go wider than stock, and you'd just end up limiting your tire choices in the process. Stick to OEM wheels and the swap is painless.
  2. You have a few options, but the most straight forward is buying used S or E wheels and bolting up SM rotors. You'll need both a front and rear rotor.
  3. Probably a bit rich on the jetting.
  4. No, not E model forks. All E model forks are cartridge type. Only 2000-2001 S model forks are damper rod.
  5. Actually, forks are the same. At $500, you can't get hurt. The wheel set along will sell for that. If you have the time, you could make a few bucks parting it out.
  6. Do a search. Several people have done this mod.
  7. I don't find that weird at all. I change my oil after every ride if dirt is involved. But I would then make the assumption he rides the bike hard during those rides. I would choose the bike closest to stock, so bike #1. Also, someone above said it doesn't have the cartridge fork, but it should. The fully adjustable cartridge fork debuted in 2002. Edit: You can see the compression adjustment sticker and rebound adjustment screw in the pictures so it definitely has the newer adjustable fork.
  8. You may not need to rejet when adding a slip on to an already well tuned bike, but even stock the DRZ could use some tuning. Mine had a terrible mid-throttle surge when stock.
  9. I'm very well aware they haven't been made for years. Doesn't mean that's not the bike they were made for.
  10. Corrosion due to whatever. Unless you park your bike in the sand at the beach they're not going to corrode enough during the life of the spoke to be an issue. If want them to always be shiny either pony up for the Buchanans or try coating them with something (oil, wax, whatever). You could always put those colored cover things on them, too.
  11. They probably fit the E and kicker models. Only the S and SM have the gargantuan switch assembly, and that has changed a bit over the years, too. If you just have to have those levers I'm sure you could find a smaller assembly out there.
  12. You're in CA, don't worry about it.
  13. From what I have seen, most rallyes in Europe cover a lot of sand. As such, it's the chassis that's going to require the most maintenance. That sand gets everywhere and will quickly destroy bearings, chains and sprockets. Engine maintenance will be the easy part as long as you don't overheat the bike to the point damage is done.
  14. If you are serious about racing in desert rallyes you're making a mistake. You talk about the reliability of the DRZ and low maintenance intervals but that all starts to go away once you build a "race" engine, even a mild one, then participate in an actual race. If you think you can race a DRZ in a rallye and not do virtually the same maintenance as the more high-strung bikes you're headed for a world of hurt.
  15. You likely need to change the valving in the forks and shock for (optimal) SM use.