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About Honda_250f_rider

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  1. Honda_250f_rider

    puzziling question, 2009 rmz450

    ya its rotella, nothing wrong with it. I am the "mechanic" / the guy that does work on their bikes.... Anyway, it just needs to get fixed up to send back to the shop. Getting 10's for the next race season and only 250s. valves are fine, they are on the tight side of the spec. if anything I think its just a worn cylinder. because the old piston was pretty scratched up and there is some noticeable spots on the cyl that can be questioned which were worn from the old piston. ---even with the brand new suzuki piston I could notice questionable spots on the exhaust side skirt But there's only so much you can do because you don't want to go in and rebuild the whole motor, crank and all just for a bike going back to the shop. Thanks for the input though. I was just thinking if it was a "suzuki" thing on the 450s that some people may have known about. I don't know if this issue is going to get pursued any further than it is now, theres a brand new piston in the bike now and its running strong. And the noise, to me doesn't sound like its going to blow up, its just a little noisier than I would like The rmz250 has been a solid reliable bike, no issues. And the thing is wrung out way further and revs way higher than the 450. Beats me why this bike would have a problem with hardly any hours.
  2. Honda_250f_rider

    Bogging issue...

    try a smaller leak jet in the float bowl, if I can remember correctly you can go as small as a 40 or 42 (something like that). That should help. What year is your bike? I have an 08 and I have a 168 main jet, the small leak jet, boyesen QS2, and an aftermarket fuel screw adjusted properly. I haven't had any issues with it. As with any carbed bike if you are lower in the revs wacking the gas on right away will probably cause it to bog.
  3. Honda_250f_rider

    puzziling question, 2009 rmz450

    It seems just when there is no load on the bike, you only really notice it when its sitting there idling or maybe if your going slow and listening to the motor. Don't know if that helps at all. right now theres 15w40 oil in it, I suggested going thicker. if your riding it you can't tell its any noisier. but according to the owner of the bike, this is a new noise, not something that has been there before..? The thing rips though, no shortage of power.
  4. Honda_250f_rider

    2006 rm-z 450 coolant in oil?

    head gasket? or waterpump seal? can't speculate till you take it apart and look at those things. so figure your self a piston kit, base and head gasket. And maybe the waterpump seal.
  5. Honda_250f_rider

    puzziling question, 2009 rmz450

    okay. haven't been on here in a long time, new look to the site! anyway. A 2009 RMZ450 had some engine noise, what sounded to me like clanking or piston slap. Less than 30 hrs on bike. I tore it down checked the valve clearances, they were fine. Pulled out the piston, it was scratched up. the cylinder had some slight wear, but I honed it and we called it good enough. anyway the new OEM piston had some very slight defects on the piston skirt more so on the exhaust side... Just a observation. Not enough to cause too much concern I don't think. Anyway, new piston in (infamous dry rebuild procedure again haha), still makes the same clanky noise. I ripped it up the dirt road and such and it pulls very strong. So if anyone has any ideas to the weird noise let me know Thanks! Otherwise the bike performs great, can do a wheelie in 5th gear on the dirt, haha. I haven't ever ridden a 450 yet, just 250f's... And I like the fi you can wack the throttle all the way open with low revs and the motor just pulls. The cam chain and crank and such I don't think can be suspect because of such low hours on this thing...
  6. Honda_250f_rider

    Pic: 2010 CRF250.....

    I only read through the first page... All the new stuff looks, well new and shiny. Should work well. But in all honesty my 08 would be probably perfectally competitive with the new 2010 with a rider of around the same skill level. I don't see it worth the $3500 to upgrade to the new bike and then add on extra to mod it how I like it, suspension, tires, chains/sprockets, pipe,etc. my motor may be about due for a complete rebuild - go into the crank and stuff. gone through bunch of pistons already, 122 hrs... but I could build up a rippin motor for less than the cost of an upgrade... I guess im just rambling, haven't been on this forum for months haha.
  7. Honda_250f_rider

    honing cylinder

    I personally use the Brush Research hones. A 3.5" ball hone. anywhere between 120 and 240 grit will be fine. Nothing wrong with the wiseco brush hones though.
  8. Honda_250f_rider

    A little help please - 1997 XR250R suspension

    thanks! I guess I'll give a go with what I was planning. I looked up the oil volume for the forks and it specs 447ccs. So maybe someone did go into them previously and they might of not put enough back in. Haven't got the bike yet, just waiting on the bladder for the shock first.
  9. Honda_250f_rider

    A little help please - 1997 XR250R suspension

    well, the guy is complaining about there being no suspension. I can understand the back, because of the blown bladder. But the front, I don't know? I hope just fresh oil is all it needs. Because I don't know much (anything) about the old forks. All I'm going to do is drain out the old oil and stick in new stuff and hope it works good. I still think there should be some resistance when pushing down on the forks, you can pretty well bottom them out by pushing on them. Also - what weight of fork oil should I be using? 5wt or something thicker, or ATF in these old things? I know 3wt shock oil in the shock, I have some Maxima racing stuff.
  10. Hi, haven't been here in a while... Anyway I am going to be servicing the forks/shock on a 97 xr250r. I know that they have never been done before, The shock; all of the nitrogen has drained out. When you push down on it, there is little resistance. So I know I need a new bladder, because the shock has never leaked oil past the seal before. So I'll put that and stick in some fresh oil. I know what I need to do here. (The guy has filled the bladder with air before and rode the bike for a minute or two, and said it was great.) - nothing blew up, ahh. But the forks are where I am concerned. You can push them down and there is no resistance on them. They do not leak either. I am thinking they just need an oil change. Don't know what else could really be wrong with them, they are not filled with any gas or anything. They are the right side up forks. I am just hoping that the oil has broken down lots and air and stuff got inside of everything. So all they'll need is fresh oil. But anyone who has taken apart these forks and knows stuff about them, I would like to know if anything else could be wrong with them. Thanks
  11. Honda_250f_rider

    Rebuilt my 08 OEM steering damper

    if you checked out the rebuild procedure in the 450 forum. A couple of pages in I have a valving change that I did. Along with that I used the Rotella 15w40 oil. I was happy with how that was working for me But right now I am using Dave J's 215.VM2.K5 (SPI-3) in the damper. Because I used it in the forks/shock. This stuff works great in it as well.
  12. Honda_250f_rider

    new to the red rockets

    yep, rotella t 15w40 in both sides is what I use. Its fine Why pay more than you have to for oil that would just mean me riding less...
  13. Honda_250f_rider

    stock air filter

    And I found that the stock filter likes to come apart at the seams on the inside after not too many uses. The Twin air ones are good as well; but on my bike I found them to get a tiny slit on the sealing surface. The slit did not compromise the filter... And my fav. filter is the No toil ones BUT with a good filter oil such as Maxima FFT or Belray. I would never put the no toil oil on a filter that goes on my bike....
  14. Honda_250f_rider

    MMMmmm worn out brake pads

    Make sure you use DOT4 fluid
  15. Honda_250f_rider

    new to the red rockets

    Hey, for 111.2 hrs I have been running rotella t 15w40 or any diesel oil that I had and I run my bike hard. Most important thing is to keep the oil fresh. I use it for both sides of the bike. In all of reality a 10w40 auto oil would work fine just as long as it wasn't energy conserving and its rating was grater than SF/SG. The manual specs to run an oil that is SF, or SG, or grater than that. Rotella T 15w40 happens to be, SM, SL.