desmolift

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desmolift last won the day on March 8 2007

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About desmolift

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  1. Oooops... http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/1272 only $20 for another switch. Or as Jim says, do without.
  2. Another helpful hint: Be sure to remove the vent tube from the top of the airbox before lifting the subframe. Once you have the carb off be sure to clean all the orifices and jets, including the AP. Its a difficult carb to get to, you do not want to do it twice. :-) If you don't have too. I found it easiest to remove the rear shock when doing this job. When re-installing, be sure to connect the vent tube before attaching the upper shock mount, this will reduce some frustration on assembly. (all assuming the '06 is similar to my '04) I use carb cleaner and compressed air can (Ace hardware) to clean and blow out the jets and orifices. Be sure to check the AP diaphragm for cracks.
  3. Turns out Honda only sells a complete kit; pushrod, oring, dring, diaphragm, spring & cover. Part 16021-KRN-671. Direct replacement. I replaced the diaphragm, oring, dring & spring from the kit. I never found information on the upgrade kit and the dealer had not heard of it. Possibly the upgrade kit was for a later year. Bike runs great now.
  4. Indeed the carb is a pain to get at! Trust me, you will never get good results on tuning this carb if its dirty. Before jumping into the mods, I would be absolutely sure all jets and orifices are clear, this includes the AP and nozzle. I just went through this and ended up removing the carb 3 times before I completely cleaned all the circuits. I was in too much of a rush and thought I found the problem each time. Thoroughly cleaning the first time will save you some effort and frustration. I used carb cleaner & compressed air from a can used to clean computers. Be sure to check the AP, my diaphragm was destroyed and needs to be replaced. My experience the AP mod is a must, although I did this many years ago, I see now there are alternatives from Merge Racing. Also, if you open the airbox, you should probably open the exhaust up. Based on those decisions you will need to rejet, lots of info here on all that. As for checking the oil... I'd say just change it, both tranny & engine oil, then you will know how much is in there. I usually drain each and measure each of them and keep a record. This way you will know if something is going on unsat.
  5. The accelerator pump diaphragm on my 2004 250x has disintegrated after 9 years of use. I have been looking online for a replacement part and it appears that Honda only sells the cover, diaphragm, and o/drings. Also, I found that Honda now supplies an updated AP kit, cover, rod, o/drings, diaphragm. I was looking for some advise, should I make the effort to do the upgrade kit? If so, does it require any tuning, ie. leak jets, timing adjustment, AP mod removal, etc.? You see I have limited time and just want to get the bike back together and running well as it was before the diaphragm broke. Lastly, does anyone know of an aftermarket supplier of just the diaphragm?
  6. n2drt, where do you pick up the trail head off hwy 15? I want to check it out this visit. Also, I'll lookup Bee Canyon. Thanks. Update... just googled Bee Canyon, looks like a jeep trail from sat. Is there some single track out there? Or is it mostly jeep trails?
  7. Going to be in Murrieta for 3-4 days, wondering where the closest legal dirt bike riding would be. Is Ocotillo Wells the only place relatively nearby? On the drive down I see riding off Hywy 15 in Lake Elsinore, whats up there? Appreciate any pointers.
  8. 89fj1200, glad the modification worked out for you. I re-did my suspension at Factory Connection. I am running 42kg springs in the front and 4.8 kg in the rear. I also changed the top triple clamp to an Applied Racing, (they actually made it for me since it was so old) that accepts Renthal 604 fat bars and mounts for Scotts Stablizer. Also, mounted '93 Yz tank and seat. These are also great mods to this bike, slims up the profile by several inches, allows you to get your weight way up on the tank, gives the bike a more modern feel. By the way, I had an '86 fj1200 for many years, passed it down to my brother who promptly crashed it.
  9. As you may have discovered by now, there is more to this than just swapping tanks & seats. I also made this modification, from reviewing microfiche if I recall, 93-95 yz 125/250 seats and tanks will work. I used a 93 seat and tank from a YZ125. I wanted to use the WR tank shrouds, which actually fit the mounts on the YZ tank very closely, but not perfectly. The biggest problem to overcome is the radiators are on significantly larger standoffs on the WR compared to the YZ. To get the bike as slim as possible you need to swap out the standoffs as well and replace the lower radiator hose from the YZ. You will also need a YZ petcock & gas cap, if your tank didnt come with them, or do some drilling to modify the YZ tank to take the WR petcock. This significantly slimmed down the WR, albeit with a price....less gas! I mostly ride off-truck with this machine so the gas was not a concern for me.
  10. Wow, I am glad to see there are others interested in this modification. There is only a 6mm difference in depth from the PWK to the VM38, the PWK being smaller. I had no trouble at all with interference between the airboot and the shock. I still have this bike, this was the best mod I made to it by far. Makes much more clean power right off idle. So here's the gotcha, I found on the trail, the power was too twitchy on slight throttle movements, something the VM38 never had since it would only spudder down low. I would be off the throttle, hit some bumps, accidentally nodge the throttle a little and whap, I was off the trail. To solve this I replaced the throttle with a 400cam throttle, for me this was a good solution, it reduces the throttle cable pull during the first portion of the pull giving you more throttle control without reducing power. If you do alot of single track I would suggest adding this to the budget, otherwise you may not need it. As for the 35mm PWK. Looks like the depth dimension is the same 91 mm, airboot is 59mm, intake 42mm. Compared to 62mm, 43mm. This makes the PWK 35 slightly smaller on the intake side and the airboot side, where the PWK 38 is slightly larger. Be sure the connections, intake and airboot, are air tight without leaks, this would be a concern. I am more comfortable slightly larger than slightly smaller. As for the power 35mm vs 38mm, I would expect less, a 250 can obviously pull more volume than a 200, therefore the 38mm carb. But, how this would compare to the VM38, experimenting would only tell.
  11. Appreciate the attempt.
  12. I ordered the Applied Racing top triple clamp for fat bars & over the bar stabilizer mount clamp. Also picked up a G2 throttle. Should have it in a few weeks.
  13. I did a little more research. Looks like the top triple clamp on the YZ changed in '96 and was the same from 96, 97, 98... and maybe beyond I stopped looking. But this part numbr is different than the '97 WR250. I looked back, and it appears the '94 YZ 125/250 (93 & 95 are different) had the same upper triple clamp as the 97 WR.
  14. This bike has a cast upper triple clamp, so it will only fit standard bars. I would like to run Renthal Fat Bars. Any clues where I could get Fat Bar capable triple clamp? I have a message into Applied and have tried Scotts. Most vendors seem to only carry the newer bikes. Ultimately I want to fit a damper as well.
  15. Actually.... I dont think this is the case. I have read tons of positive reports on the 350XCF. But every bike has its issues and work-arounds. crf's case in point.