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About Aus_WR450FS

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  1. Have a look at this thread for some ideas.
  2. Doh! Silly me.
  3. William, The second link is the same as the first link. Please could you check this. Thanks
  4. G'day fellow riders, Is anyone able to help me with the dimensions (in mm if possible) of the "bullet tool" that is used when doing a service on the steering damper. I have a lathe and want to turn one up myself. Feel free to PM me if prefered. I need the major diameter, minor diameter, the length of the shoulder and the overall length. Thanks in advance.
  5. G'day fellow riders, Is anyone able to help me with the dimensions (in mm if possible) of the "bullet tool" that is used when doing a service on the steering damper. I have a lathe and want to turn one up myself. Feel free to PM me if prefered.
  6. This is the first time I checked mine. I have only done about 1700kms. I have used "valve saver" fluid from the day I got the bike, but seeing that pretty much most of my clearances were on or below the lower limit, I am not convinced that the stuff is worthwhile putting in the fuel.
  7. Matt. Well explained. When the manual says to untighten/tighten cam bolts in a criss-cross pattern, is it like what I will attempt to display below? 1 3 6 5 4 2 The numbers are the sequence in which the bolts in that position on the cam holder thingy, are tightened. Is this correct? I forgot to mention that on my wr450F, the timing mark that aligned up all the cam punch marks was actually the middle mark of three verticle lines spaced about 1/4" apart on the flywheel. This was a bit of a concern as I was expecting a single mark, but as everything lined up as per the pics in the manual, I thought this was fine. If I have done something wrong, can someone PLEASE TELL ME NOW before I do some damage when re-assembling the whole mechanism.
  8. Mr Bean, You raise a good point. I need to be confident that all measurements and calculation of shim sizes are correct and get it right first time. Once the cams and timing chain are installed (without the tensioner installed) is there enough slack in the chain to be able to slip a tooth on the sprocket, if by chance the alignment of the cams, and timing mark are out. This is really my main concern, due to not marking beforehand as Matt suggested. Whhops sorry, I gotta be confident! Everything is fine. All is good. Hey, I think the positives thoughts are working already. Also the manual mention using molydenum sulphide grease on the cam lobes. Is this really necessary? I was just going to ensure all parts were well lubed with engine oil.
  9. As an Aussie, I too would be interested to hear from the jetting gurus in this forum regarding this claim about needing leaner setting because of different aussie fuel. We mainly use 95 octane fuel as a minimum in our bikes. Eddie or James D, can you shed any light as to whether this would be the case. I am sure there are plenty of other Aussies with JD kits, that would like some insight into the quote in the above post.
  10. Mate, Thanks for the very quick and helpful reply regarding the cleats. When the cleats are installed, do they "bottom out" in the holes, or do you simply adjust the amount of exposed cleat according to your preference?
  11. Could someone please advise me of the two different screw-in cleat lengths, for the Fastway F3 footpegs. I don't need the thread pitch etc, just length in mm if possible. Thanks in advance.
  12. I shoulda....but didn't This is what I followed from the manual. Hence not marked. Adjustment steps: Loosen the timing chain tensioner cap bolt. Remove the timing chain tensioner and camshaft caps. NOTE: Remove the camshaft cap bolts in a crisscross pattern from the outside working inwards. Remove the camshaft (exhaust 1 and intake 2). NOTE: Attach a wire 3 to the timing chain to prevent it from falling into the crankcase. Whoops! Looks like now I am up that certain well known creek without a paddle then. If I was a religious man, I would be praying to my deity right now for some guidance. By the way, Matt, thanks for the quick and helpful reply.
  13. I am just redoing my valve clearances for the first time on the bike. I had two inlets under spec, one inlet on the lowest limit, one exhaust below spec and one right on minimum. To be honest I was a bit peeved as the bike has only done about 1500kms and is meticulously maintained. I have calculated what size shims I need to put each valve back in the middle of the specs. I am hoping that I have got it pretty spot on with my calculations, as I don't want to have to buy even more hims if it isn't just right. Am I able to accurately perform a quick measurement of the clearances without having to re-install the cam chain and tensioner. Provided that the cams are in the correct position/alignment and bearing caps bolted down, I assume that the cams will be in the position of least resistance ie TDC Also, when re-installing the cam chain, provided the TDC marks are lined up, the cams "punch marks" line up horizontally, is there any other tricks to ensuring that everything is lined up properly? I am getting paranoid I could be out on the timing .
  14. I have never had a problem with the plug blowing out, but I wanted to prevent it happening. I made a simple bracket from a small piece of angle aluminium. I used the existing bolt without the small copper washer. I loctited it in and have never had any leaks or any other problem. The best thing is that it cost me nothing Here is a pic for you.