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About dirtbird

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  1. Although I would do the same, stop blaming yourself. We all know that s**t happens when you least expect it and we all do mistakes. Glad you avoided surgery, wish you a full recovery.
  2. So on the one hand we have a method that is commonly used in the after market but on the other some valid reservations regarding efficiency of the presented method and mid term reliability. Also it would be very interesting to measure ID as Glenn suggested with the upper clamped on the triple. I am sure that the reading will be different but not how much. Still you can have an empirical feeling of this by working the lower(with all bushings installed) free and then clamped. Regarding this area, it's also interesting the design of the latest X Trig triples where the 2 bolts are at 180 degrees, this may give a more uniform fastening and eliminate micro deformations on the clamping area. Another area that is a bit grey, is measuring. Even with top hardware, this requires experience to do it correctly and still will be difficult to obtain repeatable results.
  3. Looks a little on the safe side but not bad. Center electrode is deep brown which is ok. In 2 strokes you can have safe conclusions from plug reading mostly for the main jet which means WOT with 3rd or 4th gear and then you hit the kill button and grab the clutch. Which can be difficult to do unless you have a desserted road available....
  4. From the photos, the combustion chamber's shape looks that's more like a pyramid instead of reverse bowl. Can you check that, HDR?
  5. Add on the Beta forum two sub forums for specific 2 and 4 stroke topics.
  6. I think that the method KRAN describes is correct and what most tuners are doing to bring tolerances to the desired level. This desired level though it may be be difficult to determine and apart of measuring requires also testing and previous experience. On my hybrid forks (Sachs lowers, WP uppers, DalSoggio SPHERE inners) I had excessive play when fully extended (all bushings and seals brand new). I have used filler shim supplied by LAINER SUSPENSION (runs 2 shops, one in Italy and one in Cali) but my testing until now is limited. Regarding susp oil being slippery (or not..), while this is not described in any spec sheet that I am aware of, you should have experience with the oil that Marzocchi was using. That thing was staying attached to the fork tubes forever which I don't believe that is good for a suspension oil which ideally should move (or displace) around fast and without foaming. This should not be confused with viscosity. Hint: next time you are about to replace seals before doing anything lay your fork on a bench and while holding the upper part firmly, put enough force on the lower and observe for movement. After replacing seals etc, do the same but before you pour oil in the outer chamber.
  7. Personally never felt comfortable whenever I tried an Airoh. Chin is in chewing distance, padding is very thin and while the M was extremely tight the L was loose (normally I wear M). That was an av 2.1, I tried an already broke in 2.2 and it felt better both in fit and finish but still not very happy with it. But the part I really don't like is that the shell is very flexible. I am no fan of Arai like rigid shells but this is the exact opposite. My humble Kali AATMA fits much better and is quite cool on warm weather. My old TLD SE3 also fit better and was top quality but could be lighter and certainly not the best for warm weather. Bottom line is that you have to wear a helmet before you buy it. A question for 6D owners. Are they still so heavy? I remember that when they first appeared on the market, their claimed weight was above 1.5 kg....
  8. I wish quick and full recovery. It's true that most injuries occur when you are cool not when you are pushing. Anyway, when you start repairing the bike, make sure that you will give a good check on the subframe's aluminum downtubes. They may be slightly bent and you may catch this from the seat not feeling aligned to the bike but the most critical side effect is that it might misalign the air box boot which will let dirt into the carb.
  9. The 'modify the OEM head' route looks much more attractive to me since I won't have to deal with extra customs fees. Probably will do it in the close future..
  10. ... 'cause it's made of steel.
  11. Very interesting design that on the RK. Would it be possible to order one head with 2 domes? Also Chris what was your concerns with the S3 head? I am running one now on my 2017 and it certainly helped with pipe bang and jetting (before catastrophe arrived anyway...). RK-Tek looks a more advanced design and may work better but I haven't found any particular flaw on the S3.
  12. You are right but 133 kg for a dual purpose bike is not much. Another factor is that the bike is low with a much lower center of mass which makes it feel very light. I owned for about a year a 2011 model which practically is identical... Personally I would prefer it with a RR 400 engine but then it would be more complicated and perhaps not be very attractive to the target group that was intended to.
  13. That must be wrong... or wet to the bone. The bike has a super fast handling but with a rock steady front. Ride it around town and it will be hard to keep your license...
  14. Nothing really new, just the necessary to pass the new emissions standard in order to get a type approval. Keep in mind that this is still a DR 350 engine with a 6 speed box... Plenty of hopups from the past... I wonder if they fixed the side stand.
  15. No, its not that. The availability of the 3-4 base gasket thicknesses (KTM also does the same, same engine designer...) is to counterbalance small production variations on cylinder actual height. If you check the engine service manual is to adjust the fitted height of the cylinder in relation to the position of the piston at TDC. By doing that you don't alter port timing and factory squish and c/r . Then we (around the world) discuss that we 'd prefer a tighter squish for various reasons (another one I have noticed is that also makes jetting easier). The correct way to tighten the squish though without buying a new head is to machine the cylinder head base and as far as I am reading, there are some reputable shops to do that. They also alter other parts of the head like squish band area, comb/chamber volume and shape etc. Ask them directly, they know better than me or you.