Kommando

Members
  • Content count

    482
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

42 Excellent

About Kommando

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Florida
  1. Plate an enduro. KTM, Husky, or Husaberg have offerings you can launch. WR250R, KLX351S, DR-Z400S, or XR650L can also be set up to launch. I'd look for a used euro bike. They tend to fit tall people and are generally more ready for jumping.
  2. T63 sticks to pavement nicely. I use it with an IRC TR8 front. The front is most important to steer in dirt. A milder rear tire is usually fine. TR8 is also available in 18" rear.
  3. I run slab 2up with luggage on a near - stock DR650. I ride the same DR in sandy singletrack. At your size, you'll likely want suspension and ergonomic mods. See www.procycle.us for a look at most of the goodies available. I can't think of any other bikes this versatile at a similar price. If you want to do 2up, get a bike with more space. Thumper seats tend to be tight for 2.
  4. What bike? What sizes? What kind of dirt?
  5. One courier on advrider.com had over 292K miles before a refresh. I have over 30K miles of absolute abuse on one of mine.
  6. Givi E45 fits 2 of some smaller ff helmet types. For 2 large helmets, go E55 Maxia. My wife's helmets often don't fit our E45. She gots a big ol' noggin!
  7. No interstate? DRZ. Both suspensions are better with some customizing. DRZ is 50lb lighter and has better clearance, with adjustable suspension damping and preload. DR650 REALLY needs rebound damping in shock for serious dirt hijinks. If you want slab ability, DR650. It's still fun and capable in dirt. It's just not quite as nimble. I ride DRs in sandy/muddy singletrack at 5'8" and noob ish, so the bike is no pavement queen. The DR suspension is fixable by Cogent/Procycle.
  8. I used to run an AMS Sand Snake MX that was awesome in sand and mud. I don't know where to find one now. Shop Motorcycle Superstore or Bike Bandit for Shinko and Kenda front sand/mud or soft-terrain knobbies. They're affordable to experiment with and find something you like. For DOT fronts, the XCMH, Scorpion Rally, AC10, Parker DT, and TR8 are possibilities. I like the mild TR8 front knob, but I slab a lot. It still works well enough in our sand/mud for me. Lateral traction and self-cleaning are what you're looking for. The sand/mud fronts will probably carve better in the soft stuff than a TR8, but may have issues on hard surfaces like rock, roots, or packed dirt. For rears, a knob with some "paddle" to it works fine. I use DOT, so I go with something like a T63. It resists chunking nicely. The K760 is a popular DOT rear knob too. An 18" rear wheel would give you a lot more rear knobby options for sand/mud, especially non-DOT, but the T63 is affordable and gets it done. The D606 and MT21 are also popular DOT rears for soft terrain. Gear down into the power and get comfortable with gassing it, especially if the front is washing. The big DR handles sand fine with decent knobs...if you can handle gassing it.
  9. I ride DR650s in sandy singletrack. Put armor and knobs on. Learn sand technique. At 5'8"/30" inseam, I was fine learning dirt on an unlowered DR650. Suspension helps too. Learn good technique to pick the bike up too. It's easy if you use legs and leverage. The big DR can haul butt in sandy trails if you set it up and practice. It ain't a 250lb Enduro, but I prefer the width and plushness. The torque with 15/44 sprockets and decent carbing is good for sand.
  10. Armored pressure suit or moto jacket. Most come with shoulder armor. Riding gear has gotten MUCH better in the last few decades. I remember when a bubble-shield helmet, jeans, a leather or denim jacket, leather gloves, and high-top shoes or workboots was considered "fully geared up" for non-competitive riding. Now, even gloves and pants offer armor.
  11. It was great to see an article like this, but they left out quite a few good ones...The IRC TR8 front is my favorite DOT tire for riding all surfaces so far, and it's considerably cheaper than most of the tires mentioned. It looks like a D606 got it on with a TKC80. The Kenda K760 rear is another DOT tire that could probably flat-out dirt-spank a few of the expensive tires mentioned. Then there is the Terra, AC10, T63, Michelin Desert, and even the lowly $61 Kenda K270.
  12. At 5'8"/30" inseam, I like the DR better, even on the road. If you're bigger than 6'/200lb though, or if you carry a passenger a LOT, you may prefer a more-spacious bike like the KLR, or even a multi-cylinder DL, Tiger 800XC, F800GS, or CB500X. There are several other reasons I prefer the DR over the KLR too. The DR typically vibes less at 70MPH+, it isn't known for burning oil, the valves are screw/locknut so you can adjust them in the middle of a long expedition, and the air/oil-cooling works great. The DR seems peppier to me, with aftermarket parts available to build the DR to over 50WHP (Stock DR and KLR power is around 35WHP.). The DR responds well to even minor changes, such as jetting or a front knob. Windscreens, seats, and 400+ miles of fuel range are easy to come by for the DR too, while many KLR owners end up replacing their lauded stock parts anyway. When you want to ride dirt/BFE, the current DR is around 367lb curb, and it can be ridden like a chunky dirtbike by even unskilled riders. The current KLR is considerably heavier, more complicated, and more prone to drop damage. The DR's weight bias is also shifted more to the rear than the KLR's, so the front end comes up over obstacles easier, and it tends to not plow as badly in mud or sand. I haven't noticed any downside to this bias on the interstate. My DR is steady at any speed, even with an IRC TR8 front knob and a Kenda K270 rear semi-knob. The wind coming over the shroud is clean, instead of turbulent. Any of the jap 650 dualsports have a decent aftermarket these days. Shying away from an XR650L because it has a small stock tank seems silly to me. There are better reasons to choose something else for an adv dualsport. A small OEM tank isn't anywhere near the top of the list, as long as the aftermarket has affordable alternatives. The weak subframe, sky-high seat, weak battery box, and lack of adequate oil and/or cooling in the head would be my concerns with the XRL over long distances of commuting and offroad abuse. Either the DR or KLR can easily haul enough luggage for a 2up RTW trip. The KLR is likely more popular for long-distance travel because it has had aftermarket support for a longer time than most other current dualsports. Don't believe that the aftermarket isn't quick enough and varied enough to take even a CRF250L RTW these days though, and that bike has only been offered for about a year now. The aftermarket moves MUCH quicker these days. The adv aftermarket for the DR has come a long way in the last few years, and many people are now choosing it over the KLR, for several reasons.
  13. That vid is too funny! It almost looked like the opening credits of "Naked Gun", with the roller on the roof. Where in the heck was that rider going? That settles it though, I'm getting a heavier twin adv bike now, like a CB500X or a DL650, for longer 2up trips. As long as it can fit knobs and a skid, it should be OK when I venture off the pavement.
  14. DR650SE. It's inexpensive and relatively light, compared to most current 650-class dualsports. It can be ridden like a dirtbike. It'll cruise interstate better than many streetbikes. Throw some armor and some DOT knobs on it to tackle trails. Pack a change of clothes and a debit card to ride it across the country. Air/oil-cooling and screw/locknut valves make it easy to live with. Oil changes every 3K miles or so will keep it running fine. Check out Procycle and Kientech for some of the aftermarket possibilities. If you're not riding interstate, the DR-Z400S is even better offroad than the big DR. The DR350SE, WR250R, KLX250S, CRF250L, XT250, and many other small dualsports will run 55MPH+ without issue too, and they're typically easier to handle offroad. The big DR isn't bad offroad though, if you set it up well and have decent technique. Just don't expect ANY of them to be a race-ready sub-300lb enduro with a plate.
  15. Florida

    Coyotes are actually the only predator that expanded their range naturally when Europeans came to this continent and killed off a lot of the larger predators. We've had cougars, bears, and gators continuously in FL though, as well as geographical barriers like gator-filled rivers, so the coyotes probably kept their distance. They haven't really needed to be "replenished" anywhere, as they're populations are extremely resilient in the face of traditional hunting/trapping/poisoning pressure. Coyotes are adaptable enough to thrive in even urban environments, unlike most predators that can take down something as large as an elk. They are actually common within large cities, like L.A. and Chicago, but are clever enough that few people ever see them unless they are looking for them. One non-rabid coyote is usually nothing for an adult to worry about, but coyotes can also hunt as a pack like wolves do, and can take down quite a large animal when in a group. Now that coyotes are here in FL, they're probably here to stay for as long as food is available.