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neevothespaniel

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About neevothespaniel

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    TT Bronze Member

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  • Location
    Australia
  1. neevothespaniel

    Nissin lack bite

    So too does the master cylinder swap. Will keep my eyes open for a 2nd hand 07+ one to try.
  2. neevothespaniel

    Nissin lack bite

    Just wondering what people have done with the front brake. Rode a 450 Husaberg for a little while last Sunday and the Brembo's on that thing piss all over my brakes, even with a braided line? The WR pulls up OK but the berg was noticeably sharper. I could shave a few seconds off with stopping power like that!
  3. neevothespaniel

    Fork oil help

    When you push up the front wheel you will need to compress the forks fully.
  4. neevothespaniel

    Fork oil help

    You should be able to do it. First back rebound all the way out counting so you know what to return it to: 1. Remove handlebars 2. Undo fork caps 3. Push up front wheel and remove fork caps 4. Remove spring 5. Measure fork oil in correct leg and adjust the other one acordingly. 6. Reverse proceedure.
  5. neevothespaniel

    Fork tuning help needed??

    What does a revalve actually do? I definately think i might have outgrown the forks as the problem becomes more of a problem the faster i get.
  6. neevothespaniel

    Fork tuning help needed??

    That was what I thought and I have to say that when I first got the bike I loved the soft front although over time it got worse. I then changed the oil and it hasn't improved since. The fork tubes are fine, no issues there. I am also aware of fork binding, I always release the right side after tightening the axel bolt and pump the forks, so I assume that isn't the problem either. I did try winding the comp clickers out by about 5 and the ride got worse. thats when I decided to check going in (clockwise) and the ride got better. I have heard this will happen if the bike is riding too low in the stroke, however the confusing thing is that I know that the bike is not riding low in the stroke as I can see from the marks left after a ride (the bike never bottoms either except for big jumps). Is it possible to go all the way out on the comp to see how soft it gets and then go in from there? I assume that once I get the comp right then I can work on tuning the rebound? I know I can get these things working much better
  7. neevothespaniel

    TM Chain Guide must be strong!!!!!

    I would agree with that. I was surprised at how little weld their was. Oh well that will be fixed now, and it will be stronger than stock when its done
  8. neevothespaniel

    Moose Handguards: 08 WR450?

    I don't seem to have any issues with my Moose Racing handguards. The only problem I had was with the brake light switch which extended the banjo bolt on the front brake reservior (which I had to remove to fit the guards). Here's some pictures of my setup (bad ones I know cause its pretty dark in my garage). I tend to have my levers set a bit low and the guards straight whic from my understanding of your question should make things worse, but it seems to be fine for me:
  9. neevothespaniel

    New Exhaust

    I would go for an FMF Q4 for a few reasons: 1. It really fattens the note of the exhaust up which will give you that louder, fatter sound you are craving. 2. It allows the bike to breathe much better which will give you some serious performance gains across the whole rev range. 3. It is significantly quieter than one of the MX style cans, this means you won't be hurting your ears or those that are around you and on the flip you will continue to enjoy the extra power that your wonder can delivers! 4. It is much shorter than the stock exhaust, which will reduce any damage as it is tucked away and also looks the business!!!! Failing my fantastically, wonderful suggestion you could always go for a Pro Circuit Ti 4. Those things are LOUD... LOUD... LOUD!!!! However they do not offer much more than the Q4 does!
  10. neevothespaniel

    Fork tuning help needed??

    08 WR450F with standard springs front and back. I am 83kg without gear so I assume that the standard springs are pretty close to being right. Original oil has been dumped for Motorex 5W Racing oil and stock height was kept. The issues I have are that the forks deliver a harsh ride and feedback way too much to the handlebars. I feel most bumps and on some of the bigger hits I get a serious jolt. I struggle with this especially when going fast on the rocky stuff. On downhills especially the rocky variety, I nearly loose the front end which is not exactly confidence inspiring. I am looking for a softer ride up front so any help would be greatly appreciated. I firmed up the compression clickers a bit last time I was out which helped a little bit, but the ride is a long way from the type of soft I am going for. Clicker settings are currently: Comp 13 clicks out / Rebound 12 clicks out What can I try to get these things working the way I want?
  11. neevothespaniel

    TM Chain Guide must be strong!!!!!

    No worries about that. I am going to take it to a proper alloy welders to make sure its done properly (and neatly).
  12. neevothespaniel

    TM Chain Guide must be strong!!!!!

    I am not sure if its too much of a negative. The TM stuff is really well built and this is a testament to that. The flip is that a new chain guide is $80US whilst the new welds on the chain bracket should be significantly less.
  13. neevothespaniel

    TM Chain Guide must be strong!!!!!

    I have had a bit of a look around and this looks like a problem that a few TM users have had. Not that its a huge problem, somethings got to give I suppose. I would rather it was the welds or the chain guide and not the swingarm! I suppose it shows how damn strong the TM guide really is.
  14. neevothespaniel

    TM Chain Guide must be strong!!!!!

    Cheers. Lot cheaper than a new swingarm!
  15. neevothespaniel

    TM Chain Guide must be strong!!!!!

    Excellent. Thats what I wanted to hear. I assume the welder I need is a specialist alloy welder?
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