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SDK_CRFX_RIDER

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About SDK_CRFX_RIDER

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  • Location
    Manitoba
  • Interests
    Dirt Biking and Snomobiling

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  1. SDK_CRFX_RIDER

    RM250 Needs that extra little on the bottom

    I have a 08 RM 250 with the Platnium 2, R304 shorty, and Boyesen pro series reeds. It pulls strong from bottom, right to top. I havnt tryed any other exhaust combo than this other than switching back and forth from the stock silencer. But the reeds did help a little on bottom. Could try slightly ajusting the PV spring to see if you can change the curve more to your liking.
  2. Nope. The tailights are ford ones, and the 4X4 decals were off ebay for $16 for the pair.
  3. These pics are just from my phone so there nothing special. Everything that was chrome in the other tails, is now gloss black with the harley ones.
  4. I'm not 100% on this, but I would think it would. I did a search on the Nfab site for the 2011 f250, and all the 08-10 stuff came up, did not list 2011 on them tho. The bumpers are slightly different from 10-11, but I think they would probably be the same set up, and bolts that mount the light bar. These Superdutys sure know how to make a set of 37s look small when lifted . I almost ordered a 6" BDS lift for mine when they were on sale 2 months ago, but I figured should wait a few years before I bring it up. Apparently these F150s can clear 37's with just a 6". Got my Harley tailights on, and my bushwacker flairs on the way. Im tired of having to drive 20-30mph down gravel everyday so I dont throw stones all up the sides of my truck.
  5. SDK_CRFX_RIDER

    Best PIAA Light Prices?

    Ebay has alot of selection. Ive never found a better deal than there. I have 4 6inch 520 SMRs on my light bar.
  6. The light bar is an N Fab one i got thew Grandwest at work. Was gona get a Smittybilt one, but i live in canada, and it would have to be shiped from the states. The N Fab, and Smittybilt were the exact same too so i went with this. Cost $155. The lights I got off ebay for 210 a pair shiped to canada. They retail for 320 a pair here. Love your truck. I work at a Ford dealer, and drove a few of the new 6.7s. Never had a lifted one in yet. looks good. What tire size you running?
  7. SDK_CRFX_RIDER

    Should I buy this car

    I had a 2000 300m with 81000km when i bought it, and 96000 when i sold it. Glad its gone. Had to fight with loads of intermitant electrical problems, brakes were poor even when i changed all 4 roters and pads, and rear strut work. I loved this car only for its nice interior, and body design. Changed the PCM a month after i bought it and that alone set me back $1000. I sold it before she needed a water pump and timing belt. I was a ford tech the time i sold it. I figured I might as well be running a older ford truck with twice the miles, than run this car. But thats just me.
  8. Heres my 2010 F150 XTR. Only had it for 4 months, but she is coming along nice. Couldn't afford a Raptor, so I'm making a budget one. 2.5 BDS leveling kit 315/70 R17 Hankook Dynapro MT's Mickey Thompson Classic II rims Cloud Rider flaps Dual cat back with Super 10 Flowmaster muffler N Fab light bar 4 PIAA 520 SMR 6" lights Soon to have Bushwacker flairs, 4X4 Off ROAD decals, and Harley Davidson tailights
  9. SDK_CRFX_RIDER

    Ford 4.6 common problems?

    One thing I noticed with both the 4.6 or 5.4s, is that the head gasket may weep oil from the passanger rear head. If its not too bad then I wouldnt worry about it and buy it. There is a TSB on this issue, and it states there is no cause for concern. But I bought my dads 98 f150 when the head gasket had a noticable oil leak, and I ended up having to change the head gaskets 3 months down the line. The 4.6 is still a rock solid motor, and we hardly run into any problems with them at work. I have only seen the plug blowouts on the 5.4s aswell. As long as your not looking for a big power engine, you will be happy with the 4.6.
  10. SDK_CRFX_RIDER

    ATF question

    Most manufacturers say to use 10w40 as long as it's not labelled energy conserving I tried Pennzoil 10w40 in my old crf and it was to sticky. Couldn't get the clutch to disengage until fully warm. Switched back to Honda oil and worked fine. But I haven’t tried it in the RM so who knows. I've been running 75w Torco MTF-L since I got it and has worked awesome.
  11. SDK_CRFX_RIDER

    My RM125 1997

    What the hell. This must be a joke. But truthfully that girl should have had something on her feet. loosing a toe goon riding isn't worth it.
  12. SDK_CRFX_RIDER

    just rebuilt a bottem end for the first time!!!

    I just disassembled and put back together the whole bottom end of my 91 RM 250 that I’m parting out. It really wasn’t that bad. Had never done bottom end work on a bike before. Just sleds. I bought a case splitter, crank puller, 10pc flywheel puller set, and clutch hub/flywheel holder. Plan on actually rebuilding a motor next time I pull one apart. This one was just for fun and to try out my new tools. Next project is a 83 750 Honda street bike that has no second gear. Fun.
  13. SDK_CRFX_RIDER

    Jumping Technique?

    Are you taping your rear brake in the air?
  14. SDK_CRFX_RIDER

    My RM125 1997

    Ha I'd have to ride it to belive that. Saying a 97 RM 125 can out pull a 06 YZ 250 is really steep. Unless the YZ has major issues. But I'm waiting for the vid anyways.
  15. SDK_CRFX_RIDER

    Gearbox contamination again!

    Thats normal for that hose to have water in it. That hose goes up and T's off. One side leading to the valve cover and the other to the air boot. It removes blowbye gases and water vapor from the crank case. Should be drained every few rides. I power wash every bike I've owned and never had an issue.
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