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kahaiw

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About kahaiw

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    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    Hawaii
  1. I'm with you, but this bike's primary purpose is as a snowbike. Unfortunately, enduro models just don't have the optimal transmission for snowbikes. The real fix here is to go to coolant heated handle bars and just run the cyclops light off the system. Much cheaper than a new stator and all rest that comes with it. I have a new regulator on the way to hopefully correct the issue at hand. Many (snowbike) guys are switching to lead acid batteries due to the low temperature issues with lithium. How does this relate to your RE-START product? Unfortunately, in my haste I just bought a new WPS battery, should have waited for yours.
  2. To answer my own question above. I found the regulator, have ordered a new one. Still unsure if this is the problem as the drain seems to have stopped after messing with everything. If the regulator is failing could it be intermittent, as in closing the relays sometimes and not others? Would running an add on headlight and grip heaters cause the regulator to fail since there is extra load put on the regulator? I hope someone is out there, thanks.
  3. Speedboot, what part is described above when you said "disconnect the white blue cable" (pictured)? It has the blue and white wire going in/out, with shrink tube on it? I have been having the same issue, battery drain of 0.2Amps. When I disconnected and reconnected the draw seems to have stopped. Is this fixed or does it still indicate regulator failure? My issue has been: 2016 Husky FC 450 Vortex ECU 0.2 Amp drain found when all stop and off. Findings - Battery voltage at 12.7v when stopped. 14.2v when running. - Amp draw reduces to 0.1 Amp when ECU is unplugged. Why? - Noticed that the fuel pump turned on when I reconnect the battery. Shouldn’t this only happen when I bump the start button? - Removed Fuel Pump Relay, drain stopped while unplugged. Replaced relay with new, fuel pump actuates, drain continues when connected. - Main ground connections at frame look good and tight. - Bike rides fine but battery dies overnight if not disconnected. - Battery replaced, no change. - Other forums mentioned failing fuel relay and rectifier, does that make sense? What/Where is the rectifier? How do I test it? Sorry for the gross finger, it always ruins the picture. This is the connector in the right side of battery box. Seems to have fixed my problem with a simple disconnect/reconnect. Should I buy a new one, what is it?
  4. Electrical Help Please - Unknown Current Drain I know electrical problems can be a can of worms but I’m hoping someone has seen similar issues on husky/ktm before. Troubleshooting tips appreciated. 2016 Husky FC 450 Vortex ECU 0.2 Amp drain found when all stop and off. Findings - Battery voltage at 12.7v when stopped. 14.2v when running. - Amp draw reduces to 0.1 Amp when ECU is unplugged. Why? - Noticed that the fuel pump turned on when I reconnect the battery. Shouldn’t this only happen when I bump the start button? - Removed Fuel Pump Relay, drain stopped while unplugged. Replaced relay with new, drain continues when connected. - Main ground connections at frame look good and tight. - Bike rides fine but battery dies overnight if not disconnected. - Battery replaced, no change. - Other forums mentioned failing fuel relay and rectifier, does that make sense? What/Where is the rectifier? How do I test it?
  5. Ok thanks all here is an update to your questions. -Running 92 octain with "power plus+" synth oil 50:1 (same as before) -No I didnt drill relief holes however that sounds interesting. Whats the pros and cons of relief holes. It sounds useful to me seeing as I ride in warm moist Hawaiian jungles. Mostly on slow going trails. Fill me in on that please. - All I did was use the wisco kit with piston, rings, gasket kit, bearing, sleave. - I didnt check to see if the gasket holes were similar but sounds like a logical problem. - I didnt change the exhaust o-rings but will today. - all torqe specs were followed. - as far as jetting and all that I havent messed with that ever. Thats the next level for me. Can I pull it apart and check the gaskets for water flow with out having to get a new kit? Carefully of course. I'm hoping its just running a bit hot because of the tight rings and newness of it all. I have about 5 hours on it so it so far. Lots of things to look through now that I got all your input. Keep it coming
  6. I just rebuilt the top end in my '04 RM 250 with a wisco kit. The bike seems to run a bit warmer now then before the rebuild. Is there any adjustments I should have made after the rebuild and break in. I do ride only trails therefore in 1st and 2nd most of the time. Any tips???
  7. kahaiw

    2000 wr 400 running hot

    I had a slight melt down and have since patched the radiator and replaced the oil seals behind the impeller, changed the oil and replaced the coolant. There is no more water leaking anywhere but it seems to heating up pretty guick just at idle. It seems like the exhaust pipe is where it get hot first, obviously but it gets red hot in a few mins. The water pump cover is pretty hot to the touch after a few min at idle also. Should the water pump be getting that hot that quick. I did break half a fin off the impeller but there is still 5 good ones left (problem?). The left radiator is kind of bent up but seems fin now that it is patched, (problem?). The impeller shaft seemed straight with some blackening. The bearing was fine and it spun when i tested it by turning it over. The coolant is pretty warm so I know its circulating. Any thingelse that I could be checking out?????
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