bkoz

Members
  • Content count

    868
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

254 Excellent

About bkoz

  • Rank
    TT Silver Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    British Columbia

Recent Profile Visitors

1,138 profile views
  1. The wet weight with a full tank is listed @ 234lbs. 1.6 gallon tank = 9.6lbs of full. That puts it @ 224.4lbs no fuel ready to ride. I am looking forward to the 2020 FX. It should see a big weight loss.
  2. My fan runs almost all the time riding mountain single track. I have the TM Designs plate. I will not be going back to aluminum.
  3. I have selection of solid slugs that I have lathed over the years to loosely fit the bearing ID with a shoulder covering the edge of the inner race. I use MAPP gas or a torch depending if I am at home or at work to heat the slug. A socket will work fine. You're right, indirect heat is best. I have a infrared heat gun that I use to measure the inner race temp. 90-100c works well. And yes, Yamabond for the case halves.
  4. Gasoline will eat shrink tube.
  5. There is confusion here. I heat the flywheel main bearing inner race then drop the crank in. After assembling the trans I heat the clutch side main bearing and drop the RH case onto the LH case. This is after installing all the transmission/crank bearings etc.
  6. I disagree, Yamaha uses tighter clearances than other brands on the crank bearings. A case splitter makes it go so smoothly. YMMV Heating the bearings is for installation of the crank into main bearings.
  7. That's cheap enough to have sitting on the self in the garage. Is this what you put in your 450?
  8. Read my above post again. There are NO bearings install in the cases. You have to install them. You have a service manual right?? The threads on the primary gear are most likely LH thread. The manual will verify.
  9. Cam chains are cheap insurance, replace it again. At 500hrs you should rebuild the crank. You can determine crank wear with a feeler gauge between the thrust washers and a dial indicator on the rod but again, at 500 hours, just replace the con rod. Inspect the cam chain sprocket closely. If any wear is evident will need to replace that crank half or the whole crank assembly. Oil pump can be inspected for wear as per the manual. Look for scoring on the pumping elements. It will be reusable if it passes inspection. I pull the engine as an assembly. The new cases are sold as a set and come totally bare. At 500 hours I would be putting in new bearings/seals throughout. Inspect the transmission gears closely. Specifically look for spalling on the gear tooth faces and check the shift dogs for chipping and wear. You will need a flywheel puller and a case splitter to do the job. And a way to heat bearings safely for install.
  10. Looks ok for $500. Have at least $1500 set aside for possible repairs. With the rust on the frame you will at the minimum probably need to do all the chassis bearings. Check them all for play. The engine will need the valves checked, a leak down test and a cam chain if you are going to keep it. The suspension will need the oils changed. The silencer will need repacking most likely.
  11. Crank balancing is not standard practice on dirt bikes. The counterbalancershaft does that job.
  12. There are no "electronics" in that area. Just 3 simple relays, the tip over switch and the plug for the fuel pump. IMO people are making a mountain out of a mole hill. And the cover will not protect corrosion from forming on the relay plugs. The only thing that will is simple dielectric grease.
  13. Any 2015+ WR250F muffler will bolt onto your FX.
  14. Back pedaling...... Yes I have rebuilt multiple motorcycle, including the YZ250. And I always use the heat for bearing installation. A hair dryer won't cut it.
  15. Lets see you do it with a hair dryer. Heat gun yes, hair dryer, no.