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About PAdaytonaman

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  1. Yes, The thicker race does go on top, but the difference between the 2 oem races is only about .002. The all balls kit has a .004 difference. I'm not sure what to think about that, but it all went back together nicely. BTW, I can't believe how wet it was inside the steering stem. I haven't washed the bike in months. That top seal sucks balls. This time I used Marine grease and will hope for the best. I think what did it in was storing it for the season and not disassembling everything before that. I was in good shape during the first year and a half. I serviced everything new and again at 10, and 20 hours and it looked fine. At another 13 and its was toast. I guess I'll be shortening that interval a bit.
  2. Stupid question, But an all balls kit, doesn't have part #s designated for top and bottom race and I thought I would check which one goes on top. Thick or thin. There is about a .004 difference in the 2 pairs of races/bearings. Thanks
  3. Different machine altogether. The PC shorty is a great silencer, but don't waster your money on an aftermarket pipe for your bike. Thats why you can't find any used stock pipes for our bikes on fleabay, they work too well. If you are still running stock stuff, repack silencer every 10 hrs or so. If you have some money to spend, do suspension first. This bike is great fun stock. Its so refined, that its just hard to improve the original package. The bike is jetted so well, that its hard to complain about that either. Just swap some brass according to the weather and you'll be fine.
  4. No offense to any of the builders here, but this is why you must do your homework before you invest in a builder. You can tell a lot about a guy from how he communicates with the customers. My recommendation is to call Derek Harris from HP Engines and you won't be disappointed. He may be a bit more than some, cheaper than others, but the man tests his stuff, he races his mods and he only uses the best products available. He also uses your cylinder, if its in good enough condition. If your cylinder is buggered up, than he will recommend POWRSEAL to fix it. They are magicians. Just my.02
  5. Nice looking work, and the dyno graph is very impressive. Its been around freezing here for the last few weeks and snowy, so I can't offer any more info on the package. Just killing me looking at it everyday. I did rebuild my rear master cylinder and caliper while I have been staring at it. Its a sweet looking ride.
  6. This is a very broad question and you need to do some research. If anyone tried to make suggestions with the info you gave, you would be worse off than before. There are certain baseline settings for the bike that are well known, but you first have to make sure you're machine is maintained properly and in perfect shape. Piston, rings, bearings, seals, air filter, quality of fuel and premix, fuel to oil ratio, jetting, temp, elevation, etc, etc etc. Too many variables to make suggestions. Do some homework and most, if not all of your answers are already on this site. Good luck
  7. Is this your first time bleeding brakes? If it is, you'd be surprised how little air can prevent any pressure to the piston. Bleed at both banjo bolts as well as the bleed screw. Do a search on this and you'll find tons of threads. Good luck
  8. Most of these guys send their stuff to POWERSEAL in Phoenixeville, Pa for plating. They are the best in the business.
  9. Rekluse stopped selling the new kits with the thicker gasket. I had it and ran the stock cover. The reason they stopped was due to guys improperly torquing the bolts and cracking the cover. I broke my cover when I got taken out at a race. I was hit hard and it bent the bolt in the case as well. Now I run the Rekluse cover.
  10. I would do it. I just did this on my 2006 and you really learn a lot about your machine by doing this. I usually do this on my bikes every winter anyway, or when I'm banged up and can't ride. Don't overlook a single nut or bolt. Even the most minute thing like rubber seals in the calipers and brake fluid, etc. If your splitting cases, make sure you replace every rubber seal in the motor. There are 3 or 4 seals that definitely should be changed. When you get back on the bike it will feel like a factory fresh ride and you'll know that when you hit that triple or blitz those whoops, you'll be as safe and prepared as possible. Have fun
  11. The LE models has remote reservoir shocks, most guys that upgrade to a works performance shock, sell em cheap. I gave mine to a bud and he is happy with it after revalve. Make no mistake, its not as good as a custom shock, but its not bad.
  12. Try back bleeding the brakes and also bleed at the banjo bolts at the caliper one time. Don't overfill the MC either. Oh and as for the zip tie suggestion, yes, bleed it again. Usually the front is easier to bleed, so it sounds like you have a leak. Make sure your bleed screw isn't weeping. Blow it out after you bleed and then check it again in the morning. If theres fluid in there, bingo. Tighten all your banjo bolts as well.
  13. yes. machining is required, but its not much. Maybe 1-2 mm. So easy. All I can say, is you will pay a bit more for HP work, but the price of quality work is a distant memory after you start it up.
  14. Yeah, If you have one with the remote reservoir, its actually a decent shock once its rebuilt. Send it to Penske Axis racing shocks in Reading, Pa (Look em up), and ask for Tony Roth. He did a buddies shock and he also revalved my Works Performance shock for my TTR. Good stuff.
  15. I am running stock pipe and ignition with timing advanced 1 mm so far. Yet to play with that at the track.
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