Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About qwerty1234

  • Rank
    TT Silver Member

Profile Information

  • Location
  1. qwerty1234

    Air filter disintegrated, Best course of action?

    Note the bike was purchased just recently, and was purchased with a disintegrated filter. How long its been that way is a mystery but was the sellers fault. Nevertheless the engine appears to hold a lot of compression, as I said I can stand on the lever for at least 5 seconds or more without it budging
  2. qwerty1234

    Air filter disintegrated, Best course of action?

    It's a 2000 model. Does it run a screen? Already got new air filter on there. Don't have oil and there's a ride scheduled tomorrow so it's going to have to put up with 1 ride (the oil thats in there looks very clean) Didn't get around to doing the compression test, but noticed it would smoke a bit when idling high with the choke on. So I guess some damage is done I'm more interested in what are the implications of a dusted engine? I've done it (by accident) to a 2 stroke before and it scored up the cylinder, that was riding on a very dusty trail however. Ultimately it didn't cause any problems other than crap low end performance and bugger all compression when starting. But not sure about high performance 4 strokes, whether it's liable to cause additional damage by continuing to run it, i.e. develop piston slap
  3. Friend purchased a WR400 in pretty good condition, needed a few very minor things but for the most part, everythings there and working well Everything except the air filter.... it's not the very first thing I checked and the bike has been ridden by myself and some other prospecting buyers. The filter had disintegrated and most of it sucked into the engine by the time I got the seat off to check it. The inside of the carby was stained slightly yellow, cleaned it up as best I could. Jets and passages are fine, starts easier now and runs just perfectly. But who knows how much dirt and fine particles got through the engine I live in Australia where we have some very harsh dust particles. As of right now the bike is running fine, nice and strong with no visible smoke (yet). It was however ridden home (about 30km of tarmac) and thus sucked a lot of unfiltered air. I'm about to do a compression test to see where it currently stands, but as for standing it'll still happily hold my entire weight on the kickstarter (90-95kg) for at least 5 seconds without using the decomp. Disconnect carby, get it on intake stroke and blast through spark plug hole with compressed air? Run upper engine cleaner through it? Pull the head? (it is only a cheap buy so really...) Just ride it and not care?
  4. qwerty1234

    Cams? pistons? lets talk engines!

    I think i'm not going to bother at this stage. I'd like to know what sort of difference they make individually, and that I have no found information on Even procycle doesn't know, they developed the 190 cam to work with either the HC piston or 790. But they did mention the cam probably won't make any difference to power, it'll be more willing to rev but thats about it. Thing is I want some real world impressions Is the 790 like a slow revving bulldozer? HC + Cam an overall increase but snappy engine? but snappy compared to what? a bulldozer? It is a low revving heavy engine after all... I have seen some engines transformed dramatically but my gut feeling tells me the DR engine will never feel 'snappy', just more snappy compared to a stock DR650, but nothing even close to like say a Husaberg 550/650 It seems difficult to get a solid grasp on what does what. I'm concerned if I went with a HC piston + 190, I would feel like I didn't go far enough and should have got the 790
  5. qwerty1234

    Cams? pistons? lets talk engines!

    i've been reading a lot and information is still very vague. There is extremely little real world information on people riding the 790. Build threads yes, but riding? it's almost as if they built it, got on, tickled the throttle and cut a hole in the earth which they fell in to, never to be heard from again. And i've found a grand total of zero comparisons between the 790, and a hicomp + cam. I won't do 790 + cam cause its just ridiculously expensive I'm still confused as to what to do. I have 3 overall options really. I can do up the engine, do up the suspension (which I know is the better move but not as 'fun') or do nothing and get a 2nd hand RMX250 or such for the same price. Which I can register for road use but again i'm not sure what to do since I know the DR is infinitely better onroad but the RMX would be better offroad. Too many idea's not enough money...
  6. qwerty1234

    Cams? pistons? lets talk engines!

    Can't send my cam there as i'm in Australia. Be about the same price to just buy one Still need to know how the 790 compares. May be best to contact procycle directly
  7. qwerty1234

    Cams? pistons? lets talk engines!

    I've been off the mighty DR for quite some time actually, it hasn't been registered for a while and i've put most of my time into cheaper little pit bikes. One broken collarbone later and a lack of transport has made me think maybe I should get back on the mighty DR, but actually put some new things onto it and get it feeling like a fresh experience. I've currently got about $1800 worth of stuff in mind on the procycle website. Of that, the 2 things i'd like to talk about are cams and pistons. I'd like to change the engine characteristics a bit. I've always felt it had more than enough power offroad, you just can't use it all unless its a wide open section, even then you get more wheelspin than you can lay down. But it never had enough power onroad. The one thing it could do with is extra snap and response. So i'll be getting the TM40 kit that should help with that situation. On my order I have the 190 cam, but I havn't seen anyone get just the cam and stick with the stock piston? My bike has 45,000km on it and doesn't show even the tinniest bit of smoke. Engine is very tight, no noises, no rattles, feels very solid. I'd like for it to feel a bit peakier, but i'm worried that just getting a cam is a waste of money since this is only a 7800rpm limitted bike. Or that it may be more hassle than its worth? (i've heard of people having clearance issues, even bending valves, though with a hi-comp piston as well) Has anyone tried just a cam and stock piston? The general consensus seems to be piston, THEN cam. Or both The next question would then be, if a high comp piston and cam are good. What about vs the 790 kit? because they are about the same price (minus the cam on the latter) I'm still not sure 'how' one gets the 790 kit in. Is the stock cylinder sleeved and simply replaced? or do you need to take it to be bored way out, then press the sleeve in? does the sleeve need to be bored/honed to match the piston and rings it comes with? Labor here is quite expensive and depending on how much work, could significantly increase the final cost. I'm handy but I don't have the tools to hone or bore a cylinder And finally, given that the bike does have 45,000k's is it viable wacking a 790 into it?
  8. update regarding this The shoulder has given me minimal pain since day 4 and does not need pain medication. Only time it causes meaningful pain is when I sleep, I wake up every 1-2 hours feeling very stiff and have to move to relieve tension. When I move it hurts like a mofo for a couple seconds then settles down, allowing me to lay on my back again. I figure thats pretty good considering some people have to stay on meds for weeks and i've been able to kick them almost immediately, though still take something at night to try ease my sleep Saw 2 orthopedists today, 8 days after the incident. Got more Xrays, the first doctor said its not too bad, itll certainly leave a noticeable lump but should heal strong and give full movement and strength The second wasnt as confident. saying IF it heals it should give full movement/strength but due to it not improving the angle, possibly getting worse it may not heal and may require surgery. Its now been put in a figure 8 sling + an immobiliser sling, and to check in again in a week if that helps improve it I expressed my concern to both about the shoulder possibly sitting lower permanently, and they say its a possibility. its most certainly not going to heal straight but it will straighten enough over time, maybe 6-8 months to not be perfect but at least look like a reasonable collarbone In total i've now seen 2 general doctors, 2 orthopedists and a few nurses. Every single one of them has HIGHLY emphasised the risks of surgery in possible amputation or death. And that they dont do it, and not recommend it unless absolutely necessary. There have been some cases of young healthy people dying here on the operating table from collarbone surgery. That leaves me very worried and would ruin my day. Leaves me very little confidence in getting surgery. Yet it seems a lot more common here? (the surgery, not the risk) I'm relying on the public health sector here (Cairns, Australia) as I have no private health insurance. That said, is it worth seeking the advice of a private specialist? or even considering paying full cost for private surgery? which I certainly cannot afford but I dont want a ruined shoulder or an amputated limb
  9. Broke my collarbone 2 days ago (wednesday) during an off, landed right on my right shoulder. Hospital didnt do anything except apply an immobiliser sling and give painkillers I questioned that and thought for sure it should be aligned correctly first but they said no in most cases itll sort itself out, however there is a floating fragment so to go see an orthopedist next week (wednesday) in case it needs surgery Aas it currently stands i can clearly feel that itrs not sitting right both internally and externally. If i move my shoulder theres pressure where the bones are pushing against each other. makes it hard to sleep or change positions all I got was a crappy printout so quality not so good Should I wait till wednesday or get this sorted sooner? last thing I want is complications and incorrect healing of the bone
  10. qwerty1234

    dr350se hard cold ELECTRIC start?

    Definately worth having a play with the jetting. Actually i'd take the carb off and give it a clean anyway, a small amount of dirt can greatly affect starting Then adjust the valves - also has a fair effect on cold starts Then and only then, play with the jetting. Since it's pretty much spot on I wouldnt touch main or needle, just the fuel screw. Note where it currently is (should be close to 1.5 turns out). Also check for any air leaks (spray bottle with water, spray it over areas around the carb, if there's any change in idle speed there's an air leak) If it's still not right then a new/better plug may help
  11. qwerty1234

    Procycle Head questions

    very surprised to hear that. The brakes on the DR are pretty damn good, better than most The single best thing you can do however is put a braided line on the front (not necessary on the rear) which doesn't affect low pressure operation much, but medium and hard braking goes from 4 fingers to 2
  12. qwerty1234

    Barnett Clutch Kit DR650

    I have an even better idea http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HYDRAULIC-CLUTCH-LEVER-MASTER-CYLINDER-PIT-DIRT-BIKE-BL-/190670419938?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c64d7b7e2
  13. qwerty1234

    Different caliper for DR 125 S (or SE)

    generic china one from ebay http://www.ebay.com....=item3ccbfb9302 http://www.ebay.com....=item1e65ca0213 The stuff is so cheap is ludicrous, you get caliper, braided hose, master cylinder, foldable and adjustable lever, and brake pads for less than the price of 'any' individual component on a jap bike Because its already filled with fluid it makes replacing the fluid with no air bubbles a piece of piss (which you should do since it comes with water thin fluid) Match the bolt hole from centre to centre and double check the hose is long enough and bobs your uncle. The twin piston brakes will have just as much if not more power. I'm a convert with a lot of china gear, the thing with china stuff is while the materials can be cheaper, the designs are lifted straight from the high end gear i.e. the levers are modelled after 'ASV' levers, some brakes modelled after Brembo, they don't copy generic OEM they copy high end aftermarket so they work very well. Whereas the Japanese OEM stuff for basic things like levers, throttles and so on are all very basic design and they never change, yet remain bloody expensive
  14. qwerty1234

    Cut-out + Backfire on hard landings

    Or when you try and ride it up the bike ramp onto the ute and it missfires just as the backwheel touches the ramp, causing you to lose momentum and topple over. That could have ended extremely badly, but somehow didn't get so much as a bruise, so I laughed
  15. qwerty1234

    Engine Mods, what size JET do I need now?

    I missed the part where you said it was a 350. What you have now should be fine. maybe bump the pilot jet up 1 size. If it's bogging up top, go down to a 142.5 main