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ac717

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About ac717

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    TT Titanium Member

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    Pennsylvania
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    harescrambles

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  1. ac717

    AER 48 rebound

    26.1 is good on the bleed shim. .1mm is a little tight on the float. For a pure fast moto setup .1mm is going to give some feedback which some will like. I’d go .2 or .3mm if it’s too harsh and not settling. Always try air pressure and clicker before valving change. I run anywhere from 150psi on moto and low as 127psi in rocks. I’m running .4mm float and 26.1 bleed shim with mxtech leaf spring. Base valve settings have a drastic effect on ride height and how the fork reacts since the one fork is doing 2x the damping force of standard fork. My setup is an xc setup. For a moto setup-the standard bass valve settings would be decent with mx tech mid. Good luck they can be a little tricky but overall one of the easiest forks to tune. Really just need to know what issue having and then address that part of the damping.
  2. ac717

    Fork Subtanks for Enduro/XC/HS??

    I have a set of subtanks that I have used on just about every fork/bike I have had since 2005. I have put them on 47mm Showa,46U kayaba,48kayaba,SFF Showa and Wp CC and AER 48 forks. They have an adjustable bleed to control air flow and a bleeder to bleed air from the forks, as well as adding volume to the air spring. All they do is add air volume and a bleed circuit to the air spring of the outer chamber/air volume of an open chamber fork. You maintain oil height and can still have higher volume of air spring to resist bottoming.They work really well on my AER forks and a set of KYB 46u that I have for my RM125. I didn’t feel they made much of a difference on 47mm Showa and WP CC forks. Just another means of tuning. With an air fork that uses zero pressure in outer chamber, I’m surprised more tuners have not put them on the air forks.
  3. ac717

    Dal Soggio Sphere Valving

    The 8x25 I’d pull 2 out and then remove odd shims from compression stack. Or... just remove odd shims. That will lighten high speed and make it softer on rocks. I’d try to keep the larger face shims so it doesn’t blow through on low speed. Are these new? There was an issue with blow off valve/hole but newer versions it was addressed (supposedly). Did you check bladder pressure?
  4. ac717

    Race Tech Gold valves

    Ok. Like I said I do not have experience with this fork/valve. The float and bleed-usually the more float and bleed, the faster/softer the suspension will be. So-I’d adjust the restricter to a more progressive stack,based on your prior statements . At this point-call race tech. Tell them what you are experiencing. They have a money back guarantee and stand behind their product. If you give them the information and the opportunity-I’m sure you will find the setting you are looking for.
  5. ac717

    Race Tech Gold valves

    You have 7 of the 16mm face shims on the base valve compression, followed by the 24? Try larger face shims say a 18 or 20mm. Float at .60 is large and will definitely cause the fork to go fast through stroke. Maybe try .50 for float. Personally, I’d get rid of the compression bleed shims and use a 2 stage stack with a 16mm crossover. I’m not familiar with these forks so I could be way off. Just commenting on what I see with the stack and your description. The 1.3mm bleed is giving plenty of free bleed. Have to make compression clicker more effective.
  6. I switched back to 7/8” pro taper bars 3 years ago. I’m not into flexx bars but having additional flex does make a major difference. If I was a pro riding pro SX or MX-then I’d be more interested in stiff bar.
  7. What do people dislike about the shock? I keep hearing this but nobody says what it does bad. On my 17 250xc-felt it could use some more low speed or a tweak to the DCC stack to slow initial low speed movement. Other than that-it tracks really well and covers a wide range of adjustment. The fork-been discussed so many times. Multiple options out there to make it better. I think some will never like an air fork and for them there is spring conversions or complete cartridge setups. I thought the fork was ok stock. Simple revalve they are excellent. Initial setup I was running 150psi and light valving . Latest setup I went with less bleed and stiffer valving 127psi lower pressure. I like the latest setup best.
  8. ac717

    Top end rebuild

    You really believe a lizard got inside your engine,blocked the oil and locked up the engine? A snake was in your engine and he is about to get in your wallet.
  9. ac717

    Top end rebuild

    I’d take pictures, written statement and go to small claims court. Sorry, but mechanics had no reason to be riding the bike. Even if he was testing after chain/sprocket and brake install, the damage occurred during his operation. Saying that it could have happened while owner had it is an opinion. Stick to facts, pay for what it was originally there for and go to local DJ and get your money for the damage. You could even claim any fees incurred due to loss of the bike for trip. Either way-I would not pay a penny towards the engine damage. That was on the mechanic and he is liable.
  10. I use a clear 3 ring binder paper holder/protector. Cut it in half/one sheet, grease it and use it as a sleeve to slide past threads. It’s thin,clean and cheap.
  11. ac717

    OEM Bearing cross reference

    Measure bearing with caliper and give dimensions to bearing place. I cannot think of a single proprietary bearing on a dirtbike, but anything is possible.Most have a number on the side of the race. All balls has a crossover chart on their site also.
  12. ac717

    Showa 47 set up on Beta 300

    Also, measure float on midvalve with feeler gauges with check spring removed to verify float. Also simple math on float calculation Example:post height (2mm)-piston recess(1mm)=1mm- stack height (.8mm)=.2mm float. I check it both ways. If off by .1 on each measurement you can effectively have a float difference of as much as +/- .4mm. With a float of say .2mm,, someone may actually end up with clamped mid. I have done it myself and have seen others do it and will greatly change the behavior of the fork.
  13. ac717

    Showa 47 set up on Beta 300

    Ok. That’s 05 rm125 fork by the looks of it. Personally, I’d put the low speed stack back in. Your original stack is stiff base with light mid. I personally wouldn’t run it for enduro,but that’s me. Where I live it would cause a lot of deflection on rocks and with the low speed stack missing would drop the front end. Make it feel soft yet harsh at same time.I feel you have enough information here to make some changes and try out some different settings. Rm125 has 1.1 or 1.2 ICS springs. For enduro they should be ok. The oem fork springs on the rm125 are .40 or .42 I personally prefer to run a rate heavier spring and, lighter compression and a stiffer rebound. After looking at my current setting I agree with clicked on the base valve face shims.Not sure id go 16 but at least 14 and I’d have a 30 after crossover if used. Base clamp I’m using a 20. Mid-lots if variables with what I had posted prior.
  14. ac717

    Showa 47 set up on Beta 300

    It is unclear what this fork is from. What pistons? Low speed valve? The base valve is definitely not an 04 rm125. I have an 04 RM125 and it has the smaller base valve and no low speed valve. 05-up I’m pretty sure do. The bottoming system is different between the years also. Earlier have a steel tube on the outside. If it doesn’t have a low speed stack or removed, I could see more low speed damping necessary. What fork is your baseline data referring to? Not sure we are discussing the same fork.
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