Jump to content

CFR450X07

Members
  • Content Count

    457
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About CFR450X07

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Saskatchewan
  1. There is a small passage on the 14 as well. The opening of the crankcase is a wider diameter and is not threaded, the tap isn’t able to thread all of the part the drain bolt actually threads onto because it runs out of space basically. So I’m hesitant to get a longer time sert but the one I’m using isn’t grabbing on to much. I’ll give the loctite a go
  2. It’s normal. Just take the plug out and drain it. I believe it vents unwanted moisture out of the crankcase.
  3. Totally my fault but I over tightened the engine oil bolt and pulled the threads out of the crank case. I tried a time sert as a quick fix to finish the season (as there are holes the oil will drain out of up there). But the time sert came out with the oil plug. It never really worked given how far up the threads are. The guys at the shop said it’d be about 1500 CAD to fix it properly (new case/bearings/gaskets/labor. Anyone have this problem on that model bike? I’ve searched and have only seen threads on earlier models.
  4. How about the 2014?, I have the honda one for my old 2011, same book?
  5. Good news! Insurance rote both bikes off and gave me reasonable amounts of cash. Picking up a 2014 450R Tuesday, pumped
  6. That does look like an interesting idea I wonder if anyone on here has given it a try. On another note, some of the expensive levers advertise easier pulls, not so much in my experience, but for me i propably needed a new cable. I've heard other buddies claim they had small improvements with them. I've been told hydraulic clutch is the way to go.
  7. Hey guys, I was served a good dose of bad luck prior to Christmas this year. I had my cargo trailer parked on the side of a quiet residential street when someone so graciously drunkenly slammed their half tonne into the side of the trailer. I had my 2011 CRF450R up at the front of the trailer side by side with my CBR600. Insurance adjusters here initially told me they were considering both the bike rote off (along with the trailer which had been transformed into a flatbed trailer after impact). Anyways, the truck hit the side of the trailer, drove the wall in to the CRF which got pushed over and then hit the CBR, then hit the wall on the other side. Every piece of plastic on the CBR broke but insurance claims to be covering it as a whole. The dirt bike on the other hand was originally going to be a write off until their external company that provides them with values to start with informed them on what it was worth. They were surprised, and do now not want to replace it. My 1st big beef here is the left radiator was crushed, and given the prairies in Canada lives up to the Canadian stereotype, it’s basically the North Pole. This bike saw temperatures at -35C, -50 with the wind for a lot of the time from middle December till now unsheltered. The day after the impact, the coolant was frozen. Back yard mechanics offered their advice and mentioned that if the coolant is frozen on the outside, it’s probably frozen on the inside. Anyone think the engine could be damaged from this? My 2nd beef is that I had the bike tided down with ratchet straps from heavy duty eye bolts to the handle bars. I noticed that the impact side eye bolt was bent over about 45 degrees!. I've been told bottoming out the forks on jumps is enough to damage. Given that a lot of the impact's energy was transferred through the forks and resulted in the 45 degree bend after they bottomed out, is it safe to assume the forks are damaged too? I doubt the insurance goofs will take any of that into account. Figuring they'll give me money for a new rad and plastics and say see ya later. Any input would be greatly appreciated!
  8. Sounds like it's the throttle position sensor
  9. When i picked it up from the dealer, i checked the fluids (they were fine) rode the bike for about 20 mins. Next I went on about a 2 hr ride, pre ride inspection had me draining excess engine oil. There was oil coming out of the weep hole, i assumed i just misread the dipstick the first ride. The third ride, the oil was way up to the threads on the dipstick. And no oil came from the the check hole on the transmission. I adjusted the levels, went for a quick ride (i know i probably should not have) and enine oil level rose a little again. How much is there a difference of when you do your changes? this would be 3 times I would have to drain oil from the engine side if i were to go out on a 4th ride.
  10. I know, I know.... I've done the search, I've seen the repeat-post complaints. I've even had this problem with my 450X (sloppy crankcase gasket install) I even replied to a thread about this yesterday and must have jinxed myself. Heres the story in a nutshell: Bought a 2011 450R, dealer assembled from the crate a week ago. I have about 3 Hrs of run time on the engine. Was checking the oil before a short rip last night, guess what, the oil was up to the threads of the dipstick. Tranny oil was low. I adjusted the oil levels, rode a little... the engine oil level had risen again! The bike's brand new!!! Anyways, thought I'd inform everyone on my bad luck, and turns out, this issue even occurs right out of the crate too. Time to fight with Honda Canada to see if they'll do anything about it, not going to hold my breath
  11. I had a titanium megabomb on my 450x. didnt notice a huge difference... and the tip where it meets the head fell apart after very little use. Had to JB weld it back together. in my opinion, waste of money. I wont be getting one for my new 450R.
  12. I had this similar problem. but it was because the mechanic who did it was sloppy and didnt take the time to line the dowels up with the holes in the gasket. Also, this made the oil go from the right to the left, not vice versa
  13. +1 For Agent Smith Racing. Have heard nothing but great things about him. Most, if not all, of the 450X guys stand behind him, search their threads to see. He does work through CRFs only too I believe
  14. The are 2 lines on the dip stick, bottom is low, top is full... Add oil until its close to the full line. Put a full quart of oil in the transmission side, and you can pretty much forget about it. There's a screw on the right side you can remove to check the level. but with the full quart, oil will start flowing out. The X also has a wider gear ratio relative to the R
  15. many options: adjust fuel screw, AP mod, smaller leak jet... Adjust needle postion... airbox mod. With your box stock, its probably starving for air, i would start by removing the snorkel and see how that works.
×
×
  • Create New...