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AZJeff_99WR400

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About AZJeff_99WR400

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  1. AZJeff_99WR400

    Anyone got a WR stock pipe for sale?

    Hi Ron. I sent an email to the address that was listed in your post. I have the parts you need, so if you don't get my offline email, respond back to me here at ThumperTalk. Jeff (jcldocs@home.com)
  2. AZJeff_99WR400

    Rear Brake Overheating

    Kerry. If you replace your brake pin, get an updated stainless unit from one of the aftermarket places like Moose, Thumper Racing or whomever. It will out perform and last longer than a stocker. I always use a quick-dry graphite spray on my '99 brake pin. I'd use grease, but I'm paranoid of it getting on my brake pads somehow, especially when I'm relying on them as a life support device in an extreme downhill situation. My pins are still the original stockers and have not developed any grooves to date using the graphite spray. Remember, Yamaha has no concept of what grease or lube of any kind is. I've seen F&R axles and steering stem bearings cold weld themselves to whatever part happens to be nearby. Hope this helps...
  3. AZJeff_99WR400

    Low-speed carb problem

    Hello James. Pilot screw is at 1-1/4 turns out. I am aware that adjusting the screw can help at times, but it doesn't in this case. I have NOT checked to see that the accelerator pump is squirting fuel when the throttle is opened. I'll try this next and see what happens. It was running good with this setup before, even though I had an FMF Powercore 4 pipe mounted and didn't have the right jets in place. Now I'm running a stock YZ pipe with a 12 disc set and fresh packing. There shouldn't be that drastic of a difference. I'm suspecting that something has simply gotten out of adjustment with the carb or my TPS/accelerator pump is misadjusted or even bad. I dunno. Thanks for the help thus far... -Jeff
  4. AZJeff_99WR400

    Low-speed carb problem

    I am experiencing idle to low speed carb problems. After the bike warms up I still can't "blip" the throttle or the engine dies like its getting too big of a shot of gas. Also, the engine runs rough just off idle. I've cleaned inside the accelerator pump and checked for other obvious problems like air leaks but with no luck. My bike is modified as follows based on Clark's previously posted tech advice: -99 WR400 with YZ timing -YZ DVP Needle in 4th clip position -#48 pilot jet -#180 main jet -airbox top removed -octopus removed with all hose barbs capped off -#100 pilot air jet -TPS rotated fully clockwise -stock YZ pipe with aftermarket oval disc set (12 discs) -FMF oversized headpipe Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jeff (jeffdogge@yahoo.com)
  5. AZJeff_99WR400

    Stock YZ pipe with discs works well

    Hey lads, I have a 1999 WR400 with a stock 1999 YZ400 pipe installed. I have YZ timing and jetting. The pipe has been freshly repacked and I am running a "disc cap kit" from Bill's Motorcycles Plus in Salem, Oregon ($149) http://www.bmp.motox.org/yz400.htm (888) 806-1153. There are currently 12 discs in place and the performance and sound level are pretty good. Sorry, I don't have a meter handy as of this posting for specific db's. Most MX racers will part with their stock pipe for $100 or less, in search of big power from the aftermarket units. I previously had an FMF Powercore IV installed. It made tons of power but at ear-splitting levels. Although I lost money on the deal, I gladly traded the FMF bomb straight up for a stock YZ unit. I'm not saying that a stock YZ pipe with discs is the cure-all for everyone, but it works for me. I am also the vice president of the Arizona Trail Riders, and our group is constantly reminded of the excessive noise issue. Overall, that's the biggest gripe from the anti-OHV opponents. Protect wildlife and habitat - stay on roads and trails. -Jeff
  6. AZJeff_99WR400

    scotts- vs- gpr stabilizer

    Scotts Dampner Information: I just put a Scotts steering dampner on my '99 WR400, and I'm using the stock triple clamps with FMF 909 CR-Hi bend bars. My dampner is mounted using the "bolt-on" kit, which clamps around the oil filler bung in the top center of the frame. A word of advice for those who buy a Scotts and want to use the bolt-on kit: Yamaha did NOT consider the oil filler bung to be a high-tolerance part during assembly! The result? During welding, the oil filler bung gets attached in a less-than-perfectly centered position on most bikes. Nine times out of ten this will cause you a slight problem when mounting the Scotts, but there are two remedies: 1.) Buy the "specially offset" mounting clamp they sell and use that. 2.) Use those mechanic skills of yours and get creative. In my case (remedy #2), the stabilizer bottomed out against the mounting clamp before the left-side steering stop was contacted, a big NO-NO according to Scotts. If you ride the bike like this, it will ruin the dampner in short order and void your warranty. Since the mounting clamp was only off by a 1/4", I decided to carefully "coax" it over just enough with a length of close-fitting pipe. I was freaking out when doing this. What if the mounting clamp bends, breaks or worse yet, what if the oil filler bung snaps off the frame? Luckily, nothing cracked or broke, the bung simply agreed to move over a little. After all, these bikes have mild steel frames on them. Also, on the stock upper triple clamp you must grind off some of the extra aluminum the factory left on during the casting process. The area to modify is near the steering stem mounting hole and ensures the clamp doesn't contact the mounting clamp. This modification will in no way weaken the stock triple clamp. Another very interesting note: With my FMF 909 CR-Hi bend bars, I did NOT have to bend the removeable bar center brace to clear the dampner! I did however, notch the foam inside my bar pad to clear the dampner, then put it right back on. I can now easily adjust the low speed knob while riding. The only time I do find myself wanting to adjust the Scotts though is when I transition from a tight, hardpacked rocky trail into a wider, sandy wash. So, other than the aforementioned issue with the bolt-on mounting kit, everything else about the Scotts dampner is a dream. Now I can ride those sandy washes one-handed while eating a tuna salad sandwich or squeezing a lime into my next Tecate brew (just kidding!). Hope this post helps someone contemplating a Scotts dampner.
  7. AZJeff_99WR400

    99 WR400 vs. 01 YZ 426 exhaust

    Hey JJ. I can't offer any jetting advice cuz my bike's a 1999. I'm looking for a 99-2001 YZ exhaust system myself. There is a company that makes a bolt-in insert for the YZ exhaust that allows you to use the FMF Megamax discs and endcap. This combination allows you to tune the exhaust and provides a legal spark arrestor. Here's the link to the company and a photo of the installed disc/endcap. http://www.bmp.motox.org/yz400.htm -Jeff
  8. AZJeff_99WR400

    Rebuild or sell?

    Hey Allan. I just spent $555.00 to get my 99WR's top end done. Somehow my valves, etc. got all carboned up and stuck open, thereby losing all compression. Only within the last 8 months before the problem did I switch to YZ timing. My mechanic is a well-known guy in Arizona (Piper Performance) yet he could not say exactly what caused the problem. He suspects some of the carboning was caused by my experimentation with race fuels, octane boosters, ect. The general rule from an engine builder is unless your bike is experiencing detonation, stick with 92 octane pump gas. The ignition system (not the timing) on WRs/YZs is designed to work with 92 octane by the way. Parts-wise, they put in: - new valve seals and guides - new piston rings - new compression release return spring (prone to breakage) Labor-wise they: - honed the cylinder for the new rings - cleaned up the carb and head - readjusted the valves - installed a Scotts stainless oil filter - changed the oil - reassembled everything That's my 2 cents worth. However, nothing feels quite like a new bike... -Jeff
  9. AZJeff_99WR400

    FYI

    Hey Mike. Thanks for the info. However I am trying to avoid buying yet ANOTHER exhaust new system. I have one of the "original" FMF Powercore IV S/A systems right now. More power than I need, but just too loud and with no available options to quiet it down anymore. I've already talked to FMF about the noise factor. They have simply discontinued the Powercore unit I have and do not offer any quieting accessories for it. "Buy our new stuff" is their response. Yeah, right. Since my WR is a 1999, the stock exhaust is the old, round black steel boat anchor, and not useful for modification in any capacity. I'm looking to trade someone for a STOCK 2000 or 2001 YZ system. There's a company that makes a bolt-in insert that allows you to run the FMF Megamax discs and endcap. The result? A tuneable exhaust with a legal spark arrestor. After owning my '99 WR for two years, I'm positive that this is what's right for me and my riding requirements. -Jeff
  10. AZJeff_99WR400

    Looking for a "STOCK" YZ400 exhaust system.

    Bill. I need more info than what you provided. What year is your stock WR system? I have my original 1999WR one, and it is a really nice boat anchor. Also, I have never heard a 2000 or 2001 stock WR exhaust, so I don't know what the noise level would be. The noise factor is one of the elements I am trying to improve. Ideally, I want a YZ system, because there's a company that makes a bolt-in insert that allows the pipe to use FMF's Megamax discs and endcap. This way, the pipe would be tuneable, AND have a legal spark arrestor - the best of both worlds. -Jeff
  11. AZJeff_99WR400

    Radiator Boil Over Normal?

    Hey Finglan. Your manual states that idling the engine for more than 5 minutes is not good. Check it out. My '99WR will boil the radiator if I am riding very hilly, rutted trails that require a lot of clutching. This is to be expected since you are stressing the engine in these kind of conditions. I know our 4-strokes take a long time to warm up, but it's better to do a short warm up on choke, then putt it around a bit so that there's SOME air moving through the radiator. You can also try "Water-Wetter" in your radiator. It's an additive that you use with water and just a little bit of anti-freeze. It is supposed to help dissipate heat better than just plain anti-freeze and water alone. I use it in everything I own, but then again I live in Arizona. Take care, Jeff
  12. I am looking for a "STOCK" YZ400 exhaust system. Does anyone have one they want to sell or trade straight-up for my FMF Powercore IV S/A and the FMF oversized headpipe? The FMF combo makes tons of power, but I simply can't use all the extra "beans" as I'm strictly an Arizona trail rider. Our trails are typically very narrow with a lot of tight switchbacks. Thanks, Jeff
  13. AZJeff_99WR400

    ThumperTalk.com decals for sale!

    Bill. I'll take one (1) set. You can never have too many stickies!!! -Jeff
  14. AZJeff_99WR400

    Replace FMF with stock exhaust?

    I have a 1999 WR400. YZ timing, jetting and airbox mods. It has an FMF Powercore IV 2 SA exhaust system with the FMF oversized header. Myself, the desert critters and ALL of my riding friends are more than tired of the ridiculous noise that comes from it. Since I am an Arizona trail rider and not a racer, I am considering putting on the STOCK 2000 exhaust, but I MUST have the spark arrestor functionality. I need to know if the 2000 WR exhaust has a spark arrestor, and if it has a removeable baffle thing like previous years. My FMF produces way more than enough power, but the trade-off in noise is no longer acceptable to me. I just want low end grunt. Is the 2000 WR STOCK exhaust the way to go? I understand for the 2000 year they actually made the exhaust out of stainless instead of recycled American cars!!!??? Please advise, your real-world comments are always appreciated. -Jeff
  15. AZJeff_99WR400

    Replace FMF with stock exhaust?

    Hey Bryan. What are the decibel (DB) levels of this pipe/header combo? Also, what manufacturer makes the Stroker SX-1? I have read the internal specs on the FMF Powerbomb header. I'm not too impressed by the fact that it has steel wool in it. I'm thinking this stuff will eventually burn out and you can't repack the headpipe from what I can see. I'd certainly like to hear more info on this combo and subject. -Jeff
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