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About Wally_Tunison_in_N.J.

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    New Jersey

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  1. molloyjp, "Loved to death" should not be construed as a literal translation. Considered a idiom,the term does not mean actual love or death. Definition here: https://www.theidioms.com/love-to-death/ "Right over his head" should also not be taken literally. It does not show direction nor altitude. Definition here: https://www.macmillandictionary.com/us/dictionary/american/go-over-someone-s-head They are just pulling your leg...er.... oh brother,never mind.
  2. The previous owner took a chisel to the thin edge of the fixed side of the front axle. I imagine that he thought that this hex nut was "seized" because he probably did not understand that you need to loosen the fork clamp to release the axle. I suggest that you simply remove the axle,''dress" the edge of the axle and the clamp edge of the fork with a fine tooth file and then reinstall properly with a service manual handy. Read this post to understand more about installation: Here is a post about how to dress a nick or scratch:
  3. Make sure the bike is on a stand,not a front wheel chock.Put a little heat on it with a heat gun. Be VERY CAREFUL with the heat. You will melt stuff around it if you are not careful. Put a 6 point socket on it with a short extension,not the 12 point you are using. Stand up and put the end of the socket head in your right hand,cupping it so that you can hold it at a 90 degree to the bolt and put your chest on the seat. Use your shoulder strength with nearly straight arms to push the handle down with one good push and hold the whole socket assembly STEADY.
  4. Plus 1 Multi time ISDE Gold,Team USA etc. Drew is your answer.
  5. Take a look at the term "Stress Riser" or stress concentration. Due to the way that aluminum is sometimes affected by gouges,cuts etc. a stress riser can occur. Think how you create a weak spot along a folded line in a piece of paper and you can understand what a stress riser is. Here is a quick overview: How can I reduce my stress concentration? 1: Reducing Stress Concentrations Avoiding sharp corners and only using rounded corners with maximum radii. Sanding and polishing surfaces to remove any notches or defects that occur during forming and processing. Lowering the stiffness of straight load-bearing segments. Placing notches and threads in low-stress areas. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- To help reduce the possibility of what is called catastrophic failure,do as much as possible to remove sharp edges around a gouge or cut by carefully rounding with a file or emery cloth. Google search results for Stress Riser: https://www.google.com/search?q=Aluminum+stress+riser&rlz=1C1CHMO_enUS580US738&oq=Aluminum+stress+riser&aqs=chrome..69i57j33.8480j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
  6. The base of all tubes (where the schrader valve is joined or vulcanized to the tube) is always a bit thicker than you realize and as such,will often become caught between the bead of the tire and the shoulder of the rim. The result is that your tire bead will never seat. Deflate the tire once more. Push the sidewall of the tire in a bit and look in the tire by the valve to see if you see ANY part of the tube caught in between the bead and the shoulder of the rim. If it is,remove the valve locking nut,GENTLY push the tube further into the WELL of the rim (check both sides) and when it is properly in the tire,the valve will move loosely into the tire cavity. Inflate with the valve nut off and then reinstall the vale nut lightly. Try looking at this video:
  7. You should remember : something caused the last few threads to seize up and break the plug off. I suggest that you take it apart and look at the remains of the plug from the inside of the head. If you don't,the threads might be compromised and you'll think that all is well by just assuming the broken parts being removed will fix the problem and that's when it goes really bad. A PIA for sure ,but an education too.
  8. Before you change out your clutch:Make sure that when you worked on the motor that you didn't reinstall the small clutch arm on the shaft that goes into the engine with the shaft turned 180 degrees in the opposite direction. This would pull the clutch arm the opposite way from it's normal operation. Find a parts diagram and a shop manual to confirm the reassembly.
  9. One good way to tell the difference from genuine vs copy is the colors that the Chinese use in their packaging and,in this case,the vent hose's. They see colors,particularly reds and pinks quite differently than we do. The red's and the pinks looked washed out instead of bright. If you see enough of these copies,you develop an eye for the clues.
  10. If you have not seen Unadilla,it should be on your bucket list. Upstate NY is an outdoor lovers dream. The track is one of the best in the country and reminds you of a real euro track.
  11. Be very careful with blue threadlock on or near plastic/polypro. I understand it can make plastic brittle.
  12. 05YZ: I suggest that you don't overthink this. fixitandy's suggestion is sound and it is a learning experience. If a mechanic learns how to use a hand file correctly,it is a real benefit. Put your engine upside down at a comfortable bench level,motor square,which is four 2x4's ,10" long,joined at the corners with screws. Hand screw your drain bolt down (without the gasket) to the sealing surface where it is contacting the one side. Mark your contact spot with a Sharpie marker. Remove the drain bolt. Hold your file at the tip between your forefinger and thumb. Your handle end should be at a comfortable position. Keeping the file parallel with the NEW sealing surface you are creating and hold your file firmly in the same position with each FORWARD stroke only. Take two full strokes of the file with moderate pressure and look at the surface. Correct your angle and keep going. If your really booger it up then go get it welded,re tapped etc. You will be surprised how easy this is.
  13. Also understand: Most nuts are manufactured a bit softer than the bolt/stud that they are screwed on to, so that the nut destroys itself (strips) slightly before the failure point of the bolt/stud. Intentional failure is engineered into the nut. This is why you should always pay attention to the spec of the ORIGINAL nut/bolt combo. See below: https://www.fastenermart.com/understanding-fastener-grades-and-classes.html Understanding Fastener Grades and Classes Understanding Fastener Grades and Classes Fastener Tech Data | Understanding Series Introduction Many fasteners (screws, etc.), especially smaller sizes, are typically not graded—their strength isn't specified. Larger sizes and those for specialized purposes, though, are made to meet certain strength requirements. Inch fasteners—those commonly used in North America—will have a grade or ASTM rating. Property class (often just "class") specifies metric fasteners. Special markings on screw heads and nuts identify the fastener's grade. Replace a graded fastener with same or higher grade (don't replace a Grade 8 fastener with a Grade 5 or 2). If in doubt, ask a professional for assistance. The chart below summarizes some of the more common grades and classes available here at Fastener Mart. Table 1. Common fastener grades and property classes. Grade/ClassStrength Grade A NutsStrength exceeds Grade 2. ASTM A325Bolts meet ASTM A325 Type 1 standards for structural steel joints. Grade B NutsStrength is similar to Grade 5. Grade B7 Threaded Stud & RodSame as Grade 5. Use with Grade 2H and Grade C nuts. Grade C NutsStrength exceeds Grade 5. Use with heat-treated medium-strength steel fasteners like ASTM A325 structural bolts. Grade G NutsStrength is similar to Grade 8. Use with ASTM A325 structural bolts. Grade 2Low strength. Grade 2H NutsStrength is similar to Grade 5. Use with ASTM A325 structural bolts. Grade 5Medium strength. Grade 8High strength. Metric Class 4Similar to Grade 2. Metric Class 8.8Similar to Grade 5. Metric Class 10.9Similar to Grade 8. Metric Class 12.9The highest metric class for strength, it exceeds Grade 8. Because there are so many different grades and fasteners all look about the same, medium carbon and alloy steel strength grades are marked for identification. Bolts and screws also bear a mark to identify the manufacturer. If strength is important, ensure that both the grade and manufacturer identification markings are present. Figure 1. SAE grade head marks. SAE Grade 2 SAE Grade 5 SAE Grade 8 Screws are marked on the top of their heads, the exceptions being small (under about 1/4"), slotted and recessed head fasteners where there is insufficient room for head markings. A head with no markings is Grade 2, one with 3 lines spaced 120 degrees is Grade 5, and 6 lines spaced at 60 degree intervals is Grade 8. Nuts are marked in several different ways—see Identification Marks for Hex and Heavy Hex Nuts below. For other grade and property class specifics, look at these reference charts… Hex Cap Screw Specifications Suggested Tightening Torques for Hex Head Cap Screws Nut Thread & Dimension Specifications Identification Marks for Hex and Heavy Hex Nuts Locknut Specifications (Automation Locknut, Grade C, Cadmium Plated All-Metal) ANSI / ISO Metric Hex Cap Screw Specifications Metric Bolts, Screws & Nuts, Tightening Torques Metric Fastener Specifications Heat-Treated Alloy Studs & Threaded Rods Be sure to visit our Fastener Tech Data section for even more information.
  14. A couple of ideas: -Approach most any construction site where you see a guy working who is older. Tell him your story and bring pictures on your phone.Ask him to spread the word that you need the cabinets from a kitchen remodel,wood and tools. You will make an friend and will likely get a lot of respect. Of course,be careful. -Raid the local recycling center for any containers that can be cut down into parts bins. Here is some inspiration: Hanging Pencil Organizers Much like the kid friendly pencil organizers, these hanging pencil holders are a simple and functional way to reuse larger plastic jugs. -Search Craigslist or freecycle.com for someone who has an old shed that they don't want anymore. Offer to dismantle it for free if they give it to you.Same goes for tools. -Drive behind all mass merchant stores and look in the dumpster. Ton's of freebies that can be re purposed into workbench's,storage shelves and cut into brackets. Use your imagination. Have fun.
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