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Kasjok

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About Kasjok

  • Rank
    TT Silver Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Estonia
  • Interests
    MX
  1. I was washing some riding gear today and thought about the quality of clothing made today. How come these ultra modern jerseys and pants break down (holes, stitches coming loose every where) so easily these days. Even top of the line quality gear that costs big bucks won`t hold up more then a few months for me (and I think I am not the only case). It seems like all the $$ is going to some designer for a new color schemes every new model year and owner`s they get their profit from using cheap and cheaper materials. Back in the days (I am 23 so not that far back) the gear would hold up for a full season at least. I still have couple of pairs of my old O`neal gear that would get used when everything else is dirty. I understand it is somewhat inevitable in this world of capitalists today, but to pay 300$ for a set of gear only to have it fall apart after like 15h is stupid. You can keep your ultra-modern tribal logos and color-schemes just give me a set of gear that is designed to be actually used for motocross, Thanks
  2. I usually have my fingers in blisters after puting on a new graphics kit. Like said use heat gun and a lot of pressure over a period of time. I imagine using a vacum bag/magine might be a good solution ( healthier fingertips).
  3. I have had some experiance with different studs and all in all real professional studded tires are the best way to go. Allthough they are more expensive then screw-in type studs, they have carbide tips and solid structure that makes the tires last for years (depending on the conditions). As a tire studded and motocross racer, I have learned that Trelleborg tires are the way to go. You can check out our humble website: www.otrmotors.com
  4. Could someone guide me perhaps to a list or catalogue where I could find the dimensions of wheel bearings in different makes and models of dirt bikes? Your help is most appreciated!
  5. I serviced a shock from 2012 KX250F, but it appared to have a rubber plug to fill the rezzy with gas. I used the needle, no problem, but I am wondering how should I open up the rezzy and get the bladder out? I can push the bladder cap in and remove the C- clip, but how am I supposed to pull it out? Thanks in advance.
  6. Kasjok

    Servicing WP shock

    It is ~19mm from the bottom (or top).
  7. Kasjok

    Servicing WP shock

    Thank you for the advice. I did the whole procedure again according to RT "bible". Now when I remove the bleed screw it is toped up with fluid and fluid is actually starts to come our a bit from this hole. How can this be if shaft is fully extended and ther eis no pressure in the rezzy (even removed the bolt)? For now I just left as it was and it seems to work good. No hissing or any other noises.
  8. Kasjok

    Servicing WP shock

    Hello, After reading and thinking I finally bite the bullet and tried to serice (just change the oil) in my 2009 KTM SX-F 250 shock. I did not use a bleed bottle. Here what I did to assemble it: 1) Pushed the rezzy piston down and filled the rezzy with oil through the bleeding port on top of the rezzy. 2) Turned the shock upside down and put some pressure in the rezzy so that the oil was pushed through comp. adjuster (Turned it full open first) and the rezzy piston bottomed. 3) Now I filled the shock body with oil, waited for the small bubbles to pop and then very slowly inserted the shock shaft. 4) Once the seal head came in contact with the body, I release the pressure in the rezzy and pushed the seal head in - this also offset the rezzy piston by slight amount. 5) Now I put ~ 140 psi of air the the rezzy and cycled the shock some 10 times. I heard some air at some point. 6) Release the pressure again and removed the bleed port cover, on top of the rezzy. I could see a small void so I filled that with oil (~5 ml) and put the bolt back. 7) Put the pressure back in the rezzy and cycled it again. Can hear or feel the air anymore, BUT.... I dont know if it was liek that before, but now it seems like the first half of the shaft movement is easier then the second half. It gets like thourger to compress through half way of the stroke. Should I be concerned? Also, what pressure would be recommended for the rezzy? I was thing 145-150 psi? Thank you!
  9. Some of my roosts and stuff:
  10. Hi, I am goin to do my first oil change in my 2009 SX-F 250 forks. This is my very first time with WP stuff. I was thinking while I am in there, is there something to do to make them better? I hear WP fork have a problem with mid-valve. Is there there anything to do? Also, what oil level would you recommend in outer chambers? I weight about 190-195 pounds so I am in a heavy side for stock springs, I think. Any recommendations are welcome.
  11. Hi, I sold my trusty `08 YZ450F and now looking for something lighter and cought an eye on `09 SXF250. I have no experiance with KTMs what so ever. I weight 190-195 pounds , over 6 ft tall, semi-fast racer. Firstly, what are to most common problems and weak spots, how does it hold on against using it as a motocross bike? I have done many showa and KYB suspenders, but not touched WP stuff. What special tools would I need? How bad / good is the suspension compared to japanaese manufaturers? How would the stock springs suit my weight and skill? Feel free to give me any advice or thoughts you have. Thanks
  12. I have a `08 YZ450F and I weight 190- 195 lbs with casual clothes. I was setting the sag yesterday and wgen I got the race sag 100mm , my free sag was only 21mm. Therefor I would need stiffer springs. Give me your thoughts and recommendations on what spring rate to get. Different comanys suggest rather different rates so I might as well ask here from people with experiance. Also, would I need to get stiffer fork springs, too?
  13. I am doing an oil and seal change on my `08 YZ450F, but ran into some trouble. I did the bleeding of the cartridges according to DaveJ recommendations, but when I get the compression assembly in, it is pretty much impossible to compress the inner assembly. I then poured some oil out and it worked. Compressed the unit fully a few times and it was good to go (smooth action, last 15-20 mm must be pulled manually). So the question is: what did I exactly do wrong. Should I try not to get oil in the free pistonswhen loweing the compression assemblys? Then again, I have done the free piston drilling mod and the oil gest in there no matter what!? Or perhaps the seals stop it at some point?
  14. What year model it might be: http://www.ss.lv/msg/lv/transport/moto-transport/motorcycles/suzuki/hndib.html I doubt it`s 2010, but could it be 2007 or anything above that?
  15. Kasjok

    CR500 competetive?

    Hi, do you think a CR500 would be competetive in supermoto racing? I wouldn`t care how bad or good is would be on street as it is impossible to get it road legal around here. Just as a pure racing machine. Obviously 4 strokes have much better traction, but if all the porting work, set up, ignition and perhaps a FWW taken into consideration, would it be run against 4 strokes when it comes to cornering. Or even more - could an edge be gained over 4 strokes? Next, is the AF convertion a good idea? I think it would be if done right. So the next question would be wich bike frame to use? Wich generation? Cr125, CRF250, CRF450(probabaly not)? Please chime in.
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