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About dirty_t

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  1. dirty_t

    directions to stonyford

    I'm coming up from Marin, going I-80 to 505 to I-5, trying the Maxwell route this year. Last year a buddy of mine told me the Maxwell road is really rough and windy for trailering, and suggested going all the way up to Willows and around down to Stony. Going to give it a try this year. We'll see. From where you are it looks like you can either head up 29 to Clearlake and then over on 20 to the freeway, or you can drop down into Napa and take freeway route. Comes down to how tricky 29 is. Time of day isn't going to be a factor - just how twisty/gnarly, and what kind of rig you're taking.
  2. Sounds like we're going to be in great shape then next weekend for the SheetIron. Diggin it!
  3. If you are give us a ride report! Trail conditions? Any snow closures? Thanks! (Sheet Iron riders with inquiring minds want to know).
  4. dirty_t

    what coolant to use/drc hose?

    Yep Basically same setup as you'd use to make your own moonshine. Unless you're already doing this might want to consider springing for the $0.89 it costs to get a gallon of the good stuff. That plus Water Wetter, or other additive, will help with heat transfer, as others have noted. Warning: if you go this route be sure to keep an eye on outside temps during the winter. Water Wetter may raise the boiling point a bit and help with heat transfer, but it does not lower the freezing point that much (a bit, but not a ton). This is where the off the shelf products beat the mix your own approach. If you want to see what happens in your radiator when you use tap water or bottled water, put a pint or so in a teflon-coasted pan (black or grey will make it easier to see what happens) on the stove and boil it until it's gone. The residue is the mineral deposit that will basically clog your radiator over time.
  5. dirty_t

    User Manual For Digital Speedo Assy

    The OEM part number for the SM speedometer is 34100-29F40. This is the same part number as the speedo for the 2006 DRZ400S K6/K7 (but not K5). If that's the case, there must be a way to select the wheel size for the bike - anyone know how to do this? (I know about the tread wear calibration function - I don't think this is the way different wheel sizes are accommodated). Reason for asking is my digital odometer is running consistently lighter than my buddy's drz digital odometer, which he believes is correct since it's milage readings match a third buddy's bike. So we think mine is running light. I bought the bike used (well used), and it has a bunch of non-original parts on it. I'm wondering whether the previous owner could've put an SM digital gauge cluster on it, which would result in the lighter reading. A 17" front wheel vs 21" would result in about a 20% lower odom readout, which is about what the difference seems to be. thanks for any info.
  6. I think mine was a 6x12 - single axle, torsion bar, barn doors. Towed it with a Toyota Taco, 3.4L/5 spd. Turned out to be a bit more than the Taco was happy with - wife even thought so and said I should get something bigger (as a tow vehicle...smarties). Anyway, might consider that for your vehicle. We were doing a lot of freeway hauling - 200-300 mile trips for racing. So it did make a difference.
  7. dirty_t

    Trailer Wiring Question.

    Can someone please explain about the white ground wire a bit more? The one on my trailer doesn't connect to the front of the trailer anywhere - it goes straight into the flat, four-prong connect that hooks up to my car. At the back it is grounded to the trailer frame via the tail light mounting bolt. Am I missing something?
  8. I have Maxxis Desert IT tires currently - bike came with these and they're pretty used up. For the Sheet Iron 300 figured I'd put some new hoops on and started searching threads here. I am looking for 90/10 dirt/street tires, for fireroads, mostly hard, dry, dusty conditions. Based on that and looking around the threads here I'm zeroing in on following: Fronts: Pirelli MT-16 or XCMH, Maxxis Desert IT, Bridgestone M22(?) Rears: Pirelli XCMH, Kenda 760 TM, Maxxis Desert IT And on the subject of rear tires - what's the deal with size? I notice the stock tire spec calls for a 110 rear on the E and a 120 on the S. I'm currently running a 110. I saw some people saying they were running 140. I understand what the numbers mean, just not as clear why one would be better than another for the kind of riding I do. Again, any input would be welcome there. I don't really have anything negative to say about the Maxxis - not sure how well they hold up compared to some of the others I've been reading about. I do like a front that hooks up well leaned over in corners on fireroads. After that main concern is having them not shred when they're aired down to 10 psi and we have to do 10 miles on the road at 50 mph to connect to the next trail. So if anyone has any experience they'd like to share, I'd appreciate it. Thanks. -Tom
  9. dirty_t

    Engine sputters and lost top speed, what is wrong ?

    I had my first run on my new-to-me 2000 S model, and had similar problems, that may well be from similar source: dirty carb. I am going to try doing what STRacer suggested and get medieval on its ass. Re electronics, the Mikuni carbs (califunkia) (and maybe the Keihins) have a throttle position sensor that is electronic/resistance-based doohickey that can be messed up and as a result create rough running. I am no mechanic, that's for sure. So I'm trying to figure out whether it's worth it to take the time to pull the carb off, take it apart, and soak it, to see if that fixes the rough running (engine hesitates/sputters when I'm rolling and start to apply throttle - major problem on steep uphills); or just take it to a stealer and let them figure it out. Someone who works on these bikes could probably diagnose it in 30 seconds - and know exactly how to fix it. I will spend hours diddle screwing around with it, and may still not fix it. We shall see.
  10. Pulled my forks off to confirm oil levels. This is a new to me bike - 2000 S, with updated forks. They are Showas - allegedly 2003 forks, with racetech valves. They have the air bleed valve sitting atop a 1" high stem next to the top cap hex head; the hex head has a rebound adjuster screw in the center. You have to remove this stem in order to get a socket on the top cap. Compression damping screw on bottom side of fork leg. The manual describes the springs as having a narrow end. I put a straight edge on these springs and they do not taper at all. They have a number stamped in ink on the side of the coil near the top: 220344, and then on the next coil below that, 49. Any ideas what springs these are? Racetech? Stock Showa/Suzuki? Rate? Thanks for any info.
  11. +100:thumbsup: So here's a question: I just got a 2000 S model, with 03 forks on it (as per what the previous owner tells me). Anyone know if the oil level specs for the 2nd gen forks differ from E to S model? I don't know what these forks came off of. They have a funky 3/4" tall air valve thing on the caps tight up against one of the hex flats, and the rebound (or is that preload) screw is in the center of the hex head on the cap. I'm trying to check oil level by measuring the depth, so I'm hoping the 4.8" measurement is the right one to use.
  12. dirty_t

    Lug sole boots

    Alpinestars No Stop trials boots - comfy, very sturdy, very luggy sole. Love mine.
  13. dirty_t

    no more Ohlins for 2004s

    I just picked up my new 2000 S complete with an Ohlins shock. Anybody know how to identify which model Ohlins shock I have?? Or is there only one that will fit it? From the pix on the Ohlins site it kinda looks like th SU506 - I don't think there's a separate adjustment knob anywhere. Thanks for any tips.
  14. dirty_t


    No stranger to the oil thread on other boards, I've seen a few of these myself. But I have to say, you kicked its ass. I mean, why would he want to do a search and read 15000 replies in order to reach the same conclusion you just so eloquently and adequately provided? The only other question I have is....what about Rotella??