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About 38super

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  1. Low 5000 mile old oil and rider abuse kills bikes.
  2. Warm the engine with new oil/filter, maybe easy ride around the block. Then drain and refill with fresh oil, good to go.
  3. stick a pop rivet washer under the needle circlip and see how it runs.
  4. Take a look thru this spread sheet (wish I knew the author, deserves race gas), click the tabs on bottom. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1HNSB3DrqJqHTInjVDKKS4HNSHZPbdK0ElbfNI5HxuZg/edit?hl=en#gid=1132379936 Idle fuel mixture only affects idle to 1/4 throttle. Needle has very little taper. Factory DRZ jetting complies with emissions (thank goodness we don't have a catastrophic converter). This engine likes to spin, not a tractor.
  5. Could be lean surge.
  6. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bdv2OBNWzB0
  7. You'll need an SM rear rotor.
  8. Take a look at the Shinko 244 / 705 series or Heidenau K60 / 76. Most supermoto tracks have a dirt section. I recommend the cheap tires til you get your bike sorted out. Tire pressure is important, low to upper 20psi. Sport bike tires never warm up because we're 100-150lbs lighter. Hard riding, change oil (cheaper than a rebuild). For me oil/filter every 600 commute miles, canyon ride fresh oil. This is Brian, he runs SoCal Supermoto school. Good vid. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agpIDUN3i4I EBC has 320mm front brake rotors for most popular brands, HH brake pads.
  9. Look here for suspension, bit of a head scratch til you become familiar with the terms. RaceTech and fleabay have springs. https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1035004-drz-fork-revalve-shim-stack-discussion-recommendations/ If brake pads look good, use'em. Have spares on hand, including common fasteners and fluids. Proly have the Trail Wing tires, OK for street and gravel roads but not for serious trail riding. Save the tire discussion for later, your wrenches will appreciate the rest.
  10. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1HNSB3DrqJqHTInjVDKKS4HNSHZPbdK0ElbfNI5HxuZg/edit?hl=en#gid=1132379936
  11. Inspect your new CVK carb for Pilot and Main jet size and needle, compare with the CVK40 tribal knowledge spread sheet. Inspect the rubber diaphram under the big plastic cover for holes using a strong light. We don't know what altitude you'll be riding which affects MJ selection. I've used a 148MJ to 8K' but the engine was not happy. Silicone lube will help slip the carb spigots over the intake and airbox rubber boots. DRZ throttle cable works, remove the return cable (not needed). Removing the oil breather box for installation, lets you rotate the carb. Intake side hose clamp screw is a tad short but will work. It's a tight fit, the diaphram cap will probably rub the frame. No harm, just a pain to change needle clip settings. A tip, JIS and #2 Phillips X tips are not the same. Grind your #2 screw driver tip flat until the flutes fully engage the JIS screws (old PhantomPhixer trick). Ask, we're here to help https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1HNSB3DrqJqHTInjVDKKS4HNSHZPbdK0ElbfNI5HxuZg/edit?hl=en#gid=2066692825
  12. Take a look thru this spread sheet for ball park jetting. Use tabs at the bottom. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1HNSB3DrqJqHTInjVDKKS4HNSHZPbdK0ElbfNI5HxuZg/edit?hl=en#gid=1172546203
  13. Tires, suspension and brakes. You want tires to learn on and wear out. Crank in a bit more compression damping, tune as you go. SM Springs are stiffer than trail but not necessary until you need them. HH brake pads, bigger front rotor when you can afford it. If there's a local Supermoto School/Track Day, go. The rider matters more than the equipment.
  14. 3. On a side note, a friend's brother's honda accord had a dead battery. Took the shorai from his R100 stuck that in the car. Bro ran it for a week.