zibbit u2

Members
  • Content count

    591
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

139 Excellent

About zibbit u2

  • Rank
    TT Silver Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    British Columbia
  1. Don't forget to bend that locking washer on the clutch basket after you've torqued it. Build looks good, nice job so far.
  2. Top end: YZ top end (5 valve) will physically bolt up to a WR (5 valve) bottom end. You'll have to use the piston that matches the crankshaft. The only real difference between the WR and YZ head is the camshaft timing. Porting is pretty much identical. Don't make major jumps between years of interchanging parts, as there are subtile other differences externally... so, don't try to throw a 2009 YZ head on a 2004 WR block. Motor interchange: -Steel framed WR 5 valve motor will fit into a steel framed YZ. I believe the only difference between the steel YZ450 and steel WR450 is the subframe, airbox, battery box, wiring harness and the coolant catch tank. -Aluminum framed WR motors I believe depend on what generation they're going to. An aluminum frame motor definitely WILL NOT fit into a steel frame as Yamaha relocated the oil tank from the frame to the forward section of the case. Same goes for doing the reverse.
  3. I would do a compression and leakdown test.. you might have a bent valve.
  4. WOW.. that does sound HORRIBLE.. Is that video with the fuel controller disconnected? If it is, have you tested anything on the bike with a multimeter to compare cold vs hot (acting up)? I can remember my old 84 "cease-fire" Corvette doing the same thing when the fuel pump was failing.. Definitely keep up with this thread.. right up until you/we as a group can find a solution.
  5. What method are you using to bleed the brakes? I'm going to hazard a guess that you've got a integrated reservoir 11-13mm Brembo master cylinder..? Some things I'd check for: -Make sure the master cylinder piston moves smoothly throughout it's stroke. Disconnect the brake line, remove the lever, then push the piston in manually all the way through its stroke. If it doesn't, rebuild or replace the master. -Make sure that the master cylinder piston always fully extends so it's resting firmly against the circlip under the dust boot. Sometimes aftermarket levers won't allow the piston to fully extend, which can cause the brake system to not self adjust for brake pad wear. If it doesn't, adjust, rebuild, or replace the master. -If the brake line is more than a couple years old, I'd be replacing it. You might be experiencing brake line expansion from a damaged braid or crimp. Last season my 2yr old Russle braided line failed on my RMZ supermoto mid-brake zone. The line had no external damage what so ever, but I was experiencing similar symptoms as you chasing irregular air bubbles.. If all that is good to go, then I would bleed the system as best you can, then install a zap-strap on the lever overnight holding the lever pulled in. Sometimes that will chase any residual air bubbles out of the system that could be hiding either in the master cylinder bore, or between the primary and secondary seals on the piston assembly. Oppracing is a good source for OEM and Aftermarket Brembo stuff.. I believe most of the OEM integrated reservoir brembo assemblies are around 100 USD, and rebuild kits are around 1/2 that.
  6. Yes, the wall thickness appears to be different, but: -The OD appears to be very similar. -They both protrude from the case about the same. -They both mount the same way (with a bolt through the center). -The keyway appears to be at the same height. With those things easily verified (from stack height), any competent machinist could create a new one on a lathe even if the OD was different.
  7. Sure looks like the kickstart idler gear rests on the same shaft design as the Electric Start idler gear..
  8. If the part isn't available through the dealer, I believe you have a working example of what the part looks like installed in the other position (arrow #8 pointing at it). I'd say remove the one that's still there, and get a machinist to fabricate one for you.
  9. A little chain rub on the tire is ok (not the rim), especially if you've got a 5" rear/160 tire on the back of that thing. RMZ's have a very narrow rear end. You can try the offsetting technique drewnabobber posted to give yourself a little extra room.. just make sure you don't go too far where the tire can come into contact with the welds on the brake side of the swingarm. Note: you might need a special sized wrench to adjust the spokes so you don't round everything off. After it's offset correctly, definitely put a chain guide on there spaced somewhere between 0≤1mm from the chain held straight.
  10. I'd be checking your FI system and making sure it's in good condition. You could have a clogged injector, or a fuel pump that isn't putting out enough volume, or possibly (like my 09) have to replace the fuel line under the tank because it's starting to pinch itself flat. You're definitely lean if that header is glowing. Are there any mods on your bike done to the airbox or throttle body? When was the last time you cleaned the filter? Your ambient temp sensor on the intake track could be defective causing the fuel ratios to be out.
  11. The only visual cue I found to know if the clutch basket was all the way in was to look at the clutch basket hub, bearing, and sleeve that go over the input shaft on the transmission. Once everything is seated, all 3 pieces should be aligned with each other.. to check for this, push on the sleeve with a flat head screwdriver and see if it moves inward. If it does, the clutch basket isn't all the way in. EDIT: I don't believe the 07 has a sleeve like my 09 does. Another way to check is to remove the whole RH case side (not just the clutch cover) and manipulate the gears individually to align everything with the basket. Suzuki is definitely behind the 8 ball on the design of their motors making it sometimes difficult to reassemble.
  12. As we said in the other thread you created about this exact same topic, remove the side cover again and check that everything is aligned with the clutch basket. If that's not sitting in the correct location, it'll cause the kickstarter to bind, no oil pressure, and no water pump rotation. DO NOT RUN THE MOTOR until you fix those issues.
  13. Have you verified you've still got enough power? The stator on any dirt bike (even WR's) aren't very powerful even after you've floated the ground. No, I haven't seen a power distribution block made that small.
  14. If I was to hazard a guess, I would say you haven't aligned the clutch basket sprocket teeth with the 3 different sets of gears behind it (Oil Pump Idler, Crankshaft Idler, and Kickstart Idler gears). DEFINITELY DO NOT START.. remove the basket and verify you've aligned everything properly.
  15. To me it sounds like you either have the clutch free play setup incorrectly, or you a warped steel causing excessive drag. There should be no reason to ever install valve spring spacers on the clutch pushrod. Did you verify the clutch stack height?