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HarrisFD

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About HarrisFD

  • Rank
    TT Newbie

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Utah
  • Interests
    Bikes, Cars, Guns

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  1. I'm going through a cleanup of the dual sport conversion on my new-to-me '14 500 XCW with the stock XCW harness and I can't seem to find the part # for LED indicator bulbs for the dash. I'm using the Ryco/Baja Designs control switch setup (EXC version pictured, XCW verion slighly different plugs). I found that once you plug the headlight connectors into the headlight circuit, you can just remove the stock headlight switch from dash and solder the leads together, all light control will then be in Ryco handlebar switch. If you also remove plastic blank plug from dash you then have spots in dash for high beam and turn signal indicators although the Ryco switch has a high beam led built in. Part numbers are : 77711091000 - Indicator Harness ( same part for turn signal and high beam) $8.23 58011024300 - Turn Signal Dash Lense $4.12 58011021300 - High Beam Dash Lense $4.03 Just can't find part number or equivalent for the Little LED that plugs into indicator harness! Any help would be most appreciated!
  2. THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • FOR SALE
    • Used - Good

    Up for sale is a complete CRF-450R 22 degree BRP upper and lower Triple Clamp set with stem, submount, frame head mount, and Scott's Steering stabilizer. BRP website says they fit 02-07 CRF450R. Bar mounts are for 1 1/8 bars like Renthal Fatbars and Protapers. I removed these from my pristine low-hour 2005 CRF450R before I reluctantly sold it. Minor blemishes on clamps, no leaks, bearings are good. Just clean, lube, mount,and go riding. Cost over $800 new for this complete setup, your chance to get at near new condition at less than half price.

    $400.00

    Escondido, California - US

  3. I'm also running the Ricky Charmichael tall bend Renthal Fatbar and the SDG tall seat on my 05. Plenty roomy for me, I'm 6'3" also.
  4. Might want to consider a 450 X. I live near Dove Springs & I have put a lot of $ into making my 05 450R more desert friendly but the one thing I cannot change is the close ratio trans. First is too tall and 5th is too short. The X gears won't fit, Baja Designs discoe'd their wide ratio kit a long time ago. The KTM XC guys leave me in the dust on the wide open roads because I don't have a 60+ Mph cruise like they do. Granted the 06 R deal is awesome, so if you do go the R route, I'd recommend getting a +13 flywheel, a Rekluse clutch, and go up 1 tooth on the front sprocket. Good Luck!
  5. One thing you might want to consider is trolling Ebay for a late 90's KX Ohlins rear shock. I did this for my KDX about 4 years ago and it made a HUGE difference. Way more adjustability (low & hi speed) and way more rebound control. I picked mine up for around $250 brand new and it was well worth it. The only drawback is that you it will make the forks seem like they really really suck because you will start hitting whoops way faster. Fast enough that I was beginning to detect some fork flex. The difference was truly night and day. I had already upgraded fork springs & I was going to try Race Tech Gold Valves but I wound up pulling the shock off, selling my trusty 'DX, and buying a CRF450. Not sure if anyone has had good luck with the Gold Valves in a KDX. If not the KX fork upgrade would probably be your best bet, but be prepared to do quite a bit of tuning to get some plushness into the initial travel. Perhaps late model Showas or KYBs could be adapted? Good Luck! PS - You own one of the greatest off-road bikes ever built!
  6. Another update, Rekluse recommends none other than, ahem, good old Shell Rotella in the tranny to minimize drag. I tried it, and it does seem to help the drag problem significantly. I was running Maxima MTL.
  7. Carillo also builds a rod that should be pretty stout. Marketed through Wiseco, Carillo has been THE standard for circle track cars for decades where 8500-9000 RPMs all day long swinging a 500+ gram piston is the norm. A bit pricey at $200+ but perhaps cheap insurance since a snapped rod is good for at least a couple thou. Anyone running one? What do the super moto guys use? I have also heard good things about the Severe Duty Hot Rods in the CRF.
  8. Just got back from a a ride through some of the nastiest rocky canyons ever. I didn't have to carry my bike but we came close. There was a couple of times I was wishing for a trials bike. Imagine a 4 foot wide rocky crevice with 3 foot granite waterfalls (dry this time of year), gravel, boulders, twisties, trees, etc. with just enough room to clear your bars. Bottom line, the Rekluse worked great, but it was not perfect. First, you can stall the bike if you are not careful. This is partly due to the valve timing of the R cam in that if you snap the throttle from idle when the poor thing is drooling coolant everywhere, it can pop back through the intake & die. My Lynx said I hit 250 degrees coolant temp in a couple spots and I stalled a total of 4 times. There is a slight drag at idle so I have to set it to 2200 RPM in neutral to get 1750 RPM idle in gear. I've double checked the plate clearance and played with the cable slack and perch adjuster so I'm not sure if I can tune this out. I also blew through a berm on a BIG rocky uphill and discovered another not so cool feature, no engagement when you blow a hillclimb. Now I know why they came up with the rear handbrake option. Despite these minor gripes, the Rekluse was awesome, I could have never made it through some of the nasty terrain we covered without stalling the motor about 30 times using the stock clutch. Come to think of it, I can't imagine trying to ride the 450R through some of this terrain without it. Its like having a Honda mini-trail 450.
  9. Gee that's pretty quick. but how long to get them on right? Seriously, I can do the Works Connection guards in 10-15 minutes, But the moose guards encapsulate the whole radiator. You have to partially drain the rads & pull them off. Then you assemble the guards around the radiators. It takes awhile to get everything mounted up, the fill rads, fire up the bike, bleed the cooling system etc. 20 minutes? Not very likely!
  10. Hey I fixed my problem. I auctioned off the Works Connection rad braces on Ebay and bought a set of Moose Racing Radiator Guards. Very Beefy and they clear the IMS tank no prob. Kind of a pain to install but not too bad. Took about 1.5 hours, had to pull the tank, seat shrouds, rads, and upper transfer hose. Unabiker offered to build a set of modded rad guards at no extra charge which I thought was pretty cool but I got a good deal on the Moose guards so I went with them.
  11. I'm running a +15, works much better for trails. I believe you have to do some clearance grinding for the +17. The flywheel smooths out the bottom, the bike still rips when you whack the throttle, starts easier too. When you get into the tight stuff, managing the clutch without stalling is still a chore due to the way tall 1st gear. I just installed a Rekluse for that reason. Seems to work awsome but I have not yet taken it into a tight rocky canyon which will be the true test. FYI, the Rekluse for the TRX-450 is exactly the same kit except that it has 5 extra carbide (heavier) balls to make engagement a little more abrupt. The reason I say this is that people on Ebay are going stupid over the CRF Rekluse kits, yet I picked up my brand new TRX Rekluse for $250. I just left out the carbide balls per recommendation by the guys at Rekluse. Bottom line, the 2 products together dramatically improve the trail manners of the R without having to resort to buying an X with its 40 lb weight penalty. Good luck.
  12. Hey all, I have an 05 CRF 450r and I had to pull off my Works Connection rad braces so I could put an IMS desert tank on. Has anyone run into this? Is there some other brand of rad brace that will clear the IMS tank? I don't think they can be tweaked enough clear and if I cut them, the vibration will most likely cause them to crack. Any suggestions would help.
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