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About studboy

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  1. toyota_mdt_tech, thanks for the quick response. The transmission is definitely the problem, and it seems to be a very common one with these cars with the bearings failing then taking out everything else. See: http://www.toyotafans.net/2003-corolla-transmission-t3022.htm http://www.carcomplaints.com/Toyota/Corolla/2003/transmission/transmission_failure.shtml There are hundreds of accounts of the exact same failure this transmission experienced. There are rumors that Toyota upgraded the bearings and/or other parts inside of the transmission in later years but I have nothing concrete prove that. harryhandshake: He is a very conservative driver, I'm not sure about the fluid changes, he's the type of guy that takes his cars into the shop for routine maintenance. I've got a 1991 Corolla 5-speed with over 240,000 on it that is still shifting great! I'm not planning on keeping the 03 that long but I'm hoping for at least 100,000 more miles without a major powertrain failure.
  2. Hey guys, I'm about to buy a 2003 US Model Toyota Corolla from my brother in law with a ruined 5-speed manual transmission. It only has 100,000 miles and they were mostly highway miles, but from what I understand this transmission frequently failed around the 100k mark. At any rate, I need a new transmission for it and I basically have two questions: 1. Is this transmission model C59? I think it is but I am not 100% sure. 2. Will any C59 transmission fit this car, i.e. from any year or model that uses the C59? There are lots of lower mile newer cars such as the Matrix and Crolla that use the C59. Thanks guys!
  3. studboy

    Eric Gorr

  4. studboy

    Cylinder head gasket O-rings?

    For tricky o-rings I like to use petroleum gelly (vaseline). Make absolutely sure that you keep the rings away from Carb and brake cleaner. Try it for fun sometime but not with rings you intend on installing on the bike.
  5. studboy

    Eric Gorr

    I've been down this road before with a number of modified engines. When you first get it back often times it actually does run worse than what you had before. Often times changes need to be made to timing, jetting (including needle), gearing, etc. to gain any benefit from these mods. Heres an example: I have a Eric Gorr KX310. It is setup for my altitude (4500 ft) race gas, and all around porting. When I first put it together with the same jetting, timing, etc. it ran ok. Response was decent and no obvious problems, but it didn't seem to have any more power than before except a for a little more torque off the bottom. Most people would be pretty disappointed with this. After retarding the timing (commonly needed for the 310 kit) and tweaking the jetting quite a bit it is a completely different animal. Much more responsive and a definite power increase, it is faster and has a lot more torque than my YZ250s do. Modified machines take some time and know how to get them to run how they should. I chose to keep my YZ250 motor fairly stock because it is the most forgiving bike I've ever owned when it comes to temperature swings and jetting changes. This is important to me because I often ride in the winter and at high-altitudes etc. You can run the bike a bit rich and even though you do lose some power and responsiveness it never runs bad. This is in contrast to a lot of the other guys I ride with and other bikes I've had where the temperature/humidity swings make a more pronounced difference on throttle response and rideability. Sometimes people port engines that don't know what they're doing which results in an almost overall loss in power, but since Eric Gorr did this we can pretty much rule that out, although the type of power may not be what you wanted.
  6. Unless you can source a wiring diagram I'd say it's time to pull out the multi-meter and see what set of wires is outputting what. If the bike is currently running you can skip the wires going to the CDI & coil. If it's indeed burned out you may be able to have it rewound or else you're probably gonna have to pop for a new one
  7. studboy

    Yz250 Motor in YZ426?

    The major problem as others have stated is going to be the pipe interference with the frame cradle. Luckily that frame is steel so if you get creative you could probably make it work. That said... I doubt that the YZ426 frame will be a big upgrade if any over your current frame. Certainly not worth the trouble. A newer fork swap may be worthwhile.
  8. studboy

    yz250 06 choke wierd

    Both of my YZ250s and both of my KX250s over the years (any bike I've had with a PWK carb.) have idled very high at first with the choke on regardless of jetting and configuration. This seems to be the norm. I usually just flip the choke on and off for the first minute or so when it's cold out. No problems as of yet
  9. studboy

    Help please with parts pricing...

    I don't think you should ever get rid of the pipes, they just look way too cool hanging in a row! It's like a YZ250 shrine in your garage
  10. studboy

    YZ 250 flywheel weight question

    I'm actually quite sure about what I said. Advancing the timing means to fire the spark plug further away (earlier)in the cycle from top dead center which contributes to a higher / quicker pressure rise in the cylinder which can also increase octane requirements. On a 2-stroke advancing the timing also has a major effect on the "effective " pipe tuning length. Advancing puts more of the heat inside the combustion chamber less in the pipe which effectively lengthens the tuning length of the pipe lowering the peak RPM power range of the pipe. Advancing the timing also increases pumping losses at high RPM. Retarding the timing has the opposite effect with more of the heat shifting to the pipe decreasing it's effective tuning length and reducing high RPM pumping losses. This is a very basic explanation but it's almost 3 AM and I'm typing this from my phone so I apologize if I left something important out or said something wrong.
  11. studboy

    YZ 250 flywheel weight question

    Retarding the timing a bit should actually reduce the octane requirements a bit. Advancing the timing usually does require higher octane fuel.
  12. studboy

    Which air filter oil is best?

    Roland years ago I switched to No-Toil on all of my machines and haven't looked back. It is just so much easier to clean the filters. I do it in the kitchen sink. No harsh solvents or gloves. No smell or messes left afterwards either! (Keeps the wife happy!) Some say that there is a difference in filtering performance, that may be true. I have nothing to prove that the other oils don't filter better. The "super tacky" type I could see theoretically working better. I do know this however; throughout the years I've used the No-Toil (with Twin-Air filters) I've never had any extra wear or failures that I could attribute to excess dirt being pulled through the filter. That's good enough for me!
  13. studboy

    Eric Gorr

    I haven't posted on here for a while but I happened to take a little peek tonight and saw this thread. Eric has been nothing but great to deal with over the years (since about 2000) and really knows his stuff. I have always been impressed with his knowledge and fair prices. He is also a very talented writer. He isn't perfect (who is?!?) but he does his best to make the customer happy. He has always done a great job for me and my friends & family. He's been doing this for a long time and has gone through a few hardships along the way. I'm glad to see that's he's still at it, he must really love it. I think that his prices are almost a little too "fair" for the amount of work he performs. Eric Gorr
  14. studboy

    2006 f350 possessed !!!

    I'm sorry that it took so long for me to get back on here and give you guys an update, things have been very busy with school. You guys were right on the money, the problem was the U-joints. They were worn and severely binding. I would have never thought of that. Thanks for all the help! You guys are the greatest! Richard BTW This truck has seen a lot of 4x4 use. I would bet that about 10% of the miles that this truck has on it were in 4x4. Between the snowy winters and muddy roads / off-road at the farm we use 4x4 a lot. Not sure if the stock u-joints were greasable? If they were, I'm pretty certain that they have never been greased.
  15. studboy

    2006 f350 possessed !!!

    It's not like you just lose power steering, the truck actually will start to pull off the road, and at that point there's nothing you can do about it. I will have them check the belt and tensioner/idler pulley.