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About typeone

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  1. right, that's how you do it, spring length before installation, then length once it's on and set to your preferred sag. i use a small millimeter ruler to check this. you can tilt the subframe up to help get the ruler in there for checking, or better yet, just slide the shock out and check. you can do this without removing the subframe completely. i just remove upper/lower shock bolts then loosen the four subframe bolts and jockey the whole subframe to the side a tad. there will be enough play in the air boot to slide the shock out. so you put 10mm preload on the spring before installing then wound the preload rings down further from there to get 100mm? how many turns do you think?
  2. good feedback, thanks ✊ what's your height and weight? is this on a 200RR?
  3. thanks, mine is also rubbing when i tie it down on the trailer, which is what caused the concern. even snugged down well i can hear it making contact. didn't experience this with my 250, even at full extension.
  4. to echo motoxgiant from earlier in the thread, how much preload (in mm) did you have to apply to the 5.2 to get 100mm race sag?
  5. thanks, man ... it does suck because i absolutely love this bike otherwise! yes, i also had Steve hard coat my '13 250 OCs when i installed the MXT kit, he also tuned my shock and lengthened it. bike worked awesome ... thought long and hard about swapping suspension over to the 200 but wanted to run the latest OE gear. i've been trying the forks at the first line and second, don't have an opinion on the difference yet even though my 250 was very sensitive to this change, especially when combined with rear sag tweaks (obviously). forks are currently back on the 2nd line. for tires, i'm currently testing a Shinko MX216 90/90 at 12psi and my standard for the rear is a Kenda IBEX at 6psi (or lower depending on trail moisture). ran the Golden Fatty on the 250 for a long time, great in a straight line but by the 3rd or 4th replacement i grew tired of the slower steering at times and climbing out of ruts. maybe i should try this Shinko front at a lower pressure since i never feel rim hits (?) HD tube in front, TUbliss rear. the bar position is interesting, i read another member talking about moving the mount forward ... i currently have the mount in the middle position and the bars are OE from 2013, i never tried the '19 bars. i'm 5' 10" so not very tall, positioning feels good but maybe moving the bars forward will help. i'll try it. for a handful of the first rides i was running the same fork settings as you (8/10/0) after running the manuals 10/10/0 for a few ... then up and down the range during testing ... my shock settings are stock from the manual with maybe two clicks in on HS comp. i'll keep at it...
  6. What does hammering rocks and roots mean? Not being a smart aleck, seriously inquiring. What speed level and style do you ride; A, B, C, seated, standing, attack position, and bike model etc. Weight, fitness. yeah, no sweat ... here comes a novel 😁 most of, if not all, the terrain we ride here is nothing but boney rocks and roots so by 'hammering' i mean trying to keep a brisk pace through it for your days ride. you have no choice but to ride aggressively which is why i'm so frustrated, i have no confidence in the forks no matter what settings i try. yes, i could send them off, but i'm annoyed they're this bad out of the box (for me). been riding since i was about 8 and raced hare scrambles for a large chunk of my life, with MX sprinkled in, but tend to only enter an event or two these days. at this point i'm a 46 y/o, mid-pack C level racer with maybe some low-B speed on a day where everything clicks but usually can't keep B pace up for long (beer!) ... stand as much as possible, always attack position, never out for a calm trail ride (competitive crew) ... right now i'm trying to sort a 2019 200RR (also have a '13 250RR) ... ~177lbs before gear ... fit enough to be a weekend warrior unless i'm training for an event. this past Sunday i spent about 2hrs riding the same boney sections of trail over and over trying clickers all the way out, all the way in, back in the middle, and variations in between. i could feel the fork action change but couldn't stop the random deflection. same exact thing i dealt with on the '13 until i went MXT. with those inserts my forks were night and day different, could rail right through the boney stuff without deflection and the huck works brilliantly on big drops. before MXT i had the forks revalved by a reputable tuner (not on here) and they were terrible, way worse than stock. pogo sticks. did not go back. for years now my sag targets with the Beta's have been 32mm static / ~96-97mm race out back then tune for front end feel from there ... front target around 41mm static / 74mm race. currently running .44 / 5.4 springs in the 200RR ... rear sag is on the money, front i think i'm only around 21mm static but need to check again after the weekend. very sticky feeling so it's hard to get a good reading in the front. just need a few more checks to average out. preload ring on right leg is at 0.
  7. no, i understand that, but i've seen members here mention fork alignment and clamp torque as a response to 'feels harsh' feedback ... just wanted to add that i felt no change in that regard. i get that 'performance' sounds a bit silly ... will check oil condition again but from talking to Beta, it seems i may need to have my dealer swap the black legs for '19 Race Edition silver/gold. EDIT: forgot to add, yes, also hear you on oil weight, it's what i had on hand because that's what was spec'd for the MXT inserts i have. waiting to swap those in though due to the oil contamination, i don't want to muck them up if Beta is going to give me new upper legs to stop the dirty oil issue. i initially refilled with Bel-Ray 5wt to stay within OE spec.
  8. cool, thanks for the input, i'll watch it 👍
  9. update: running the lower clamp at 9Nm did nothing for the performance or feel of the forks, still suck, zero confidence when hammering roots and rocks in ~2hrs of testing ... i'll drop the oil again and see if it's still coming out black. tried Red Line 2.5wt oil this time around, it's a very light blue when new.
  10. just noticed during a spring swap that my shock/spring is rubbing the air boot, anyone else experiencing this? both the OE spring and Cannon spring have the same issue. i'm going to try reseating everything but don't see how that will improve anything. concerned i will eventually rub a hole through the boot as dirt and grit accumulates. there is also a seam right in that spot, unsure if that could fail sooner than just the boot itself. i guess i'll glue a plastic 'glide' if i cant correct it but seems odd.
  11. i will be testing one out, as well as a slightly thinner base gasket (separately), but prob not until winter at this point ... still fighting with the suspension (which is bumming me out big time)
  12. do you guys clean the OE grease off the clamp bolts before torquing to 9Nm? or just torque as delivered from the factory? all of my bolts had grease.
  13. i tried 13/49 and it was WAY too much, bumped to 14/49 and the bike crawls crazy good in 1st on slow, gnarly climbs ... i might try the stock 15T eventually but love how magical 2nd gear is with the 14T ... although, the bike tops out stupid fast if you have any open areas at all. we don't ride much open, if at all, but i was very surprised how quick 6th comes when it does open up at tad, that's when i miss my 250 the most.
  14. thanks, this was a question of mine. will do 👍
  15. said i wouldn't sweat it but just dropped the ~3hr old Bel-Ray 5w i swapped in place of the OE fluid ... lots of contaminant in the left leg, black/gray swirlies ... not as much in right leg. Bel-Ray 5w is a dark blue but when it's poured fairly clear ... i will let this batch sit to see how it separates. lame. EDIT: btw, i'm using the prescribed/inscribed 17Nm upper, 12Nm lower torque values on the clamps + a MotionPro fork alignment tool as a check against the old standard of let the right leg float before snugging.
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