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About h2ojunkie

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  1. Considering you found sand behind the filter sitting in the air box, I second this as the likey culprit.
  2. 1 review

    ENGINE Type: Beta-Built single cylinder, 4-valve, 4-stroke, liquid cooled, electric start with back up kick starter. Bore: 95mm Stroke: 56.2mm Displacement: 398cc Compression Ratio: 12.4:1 Ignition: DC-CDI with variable ignition timing, Kokusan. 80 watt output at 6000 RPM. Spark Plug: NGK LKAR 8A-9 Lubrication: Twin oil pumps with cartridge oil filter. Separate oil for engine and clutch .8 liter each Carburetor: Keihin FCR-MX 39mm Clutch: Wet multi-disc Transmission: 6-speed Final Drive: O-ring chain CHASSIS Frame: Molybdenum steel/double cradle w/quick air filter access. Wheelbase: 58.7” Seat Height: 36.8” Ground Clearance: 12.6” Footrest Height: 16.2” Steering Rake/Offset: 26.5 degree rake/23mm Offset Dry Weight: 236 lbs. Fuel Tank Capacity: 2 US gallons Front Suspension: 48 mm Sachs USD fork, adjustable compression and rebound, TFX technology. Rear Suspension: Aluminum Body Sachs shock w/adjustable rebound and hi/low speed compression Front Wheel Travel: 11.4” Rear Wheel Travel: 11.4” Front Brake: 260mm floating rotor Rear Brake: 240mm rotor Front/Rear Rim: 21” (Front) 18” (Rear) Front/Rear Tire: Michelin Enduro Competition Warranty: 6 month Limited Warranty
  3. According to the leatt web site the email for south africa is info@leatt-brace.com I just emailed that address, so we'll see if they respond
  4. I broke mine in September as well. And I also have a non-union. I have great insurance and have seen 3 of the best doctors I can find reguarding what to do. 3 out of 3 have tried to steer me away from surgury unless pain becomes a problem. The all say the same thing (keep in mind, these are different docs, all in different pratices, and I did not tell them what the other docs have to say about it) The reason I've seen so many docs is trying to find one that will operate. They all seem to think the risk outweighs the benift. I seem to be in a similar position as you. I too have full range of motion. I have no pain. The only exception to that is if I lay down on the side of the break, after about 30 minutes it starts to get sore from the end of the bone poking into the muscle. I went back to riding in January, and was able to hit the 100 footers no problem. The only problem I had at first was hanging off the back of the bike in the whoops, the shoulder felt weak until the muscles adapted to the new structure of the shoulder. But, even that went away after the muscle was retrained how to work with the broken clavical. I've been using a ultra sound bone growth stimulater since December to try and fuse the bone. The are said to have about a 60% rate. But the clavical is tough becuase it's hard to immobilize. The manufacture states that it could take 6 months or so to work, if it even works at all. So far, I can actually see through the skin, and feel the end of the top bone getting bigger from the stimulator, but so far, not enough to join the break. Personally, I've decided even though I have full use of the shoulder, I've slept on my right side my whole life, and can't stand sleeping any other way. And even after 6 months, haven't been able to break myself of that, so if this growth stimulator doesn't work, I will be having surgury just so I can sleep on my right side again. I know, it may sound like a silly reason when that is the only problem I have with the shoulder, but to each thier own I guess. We should keep in touch, and I'll keep you up-to-date on the progress of the bone growth stimulator, and possible surgury if it goes that way. Message me anytime, or go to the main thumpertalk.com home page and log on to the Live Chat. I can be found there most of the time since I run the chat for TT.
  5. Only one thought about the discount on the yosh...IMO...they have to give that kind of discount to get somone to buy them. Not tryin' to knock ya, I just hated that pipe when I tried it.
  6. File the frame, and forget about it. It happens all the time with the aluminum frame. Easy fix.
  7. I've come across that problem after crashing several times before. The eaisest way to get everything lined back up correctly is first, loosen the bars and loosen the bar mount bolts. Just loosen everything just enough so that the bars and mounts will move. Now that you have everything loose, line up the bars where you want them, you can twist on the bars to use the leverage from the bars to push the mounts back into alignment. Once you have the bars positioned where you want them, torque down the bars first, 17 ft/lbs if memory serves. After you have the bars tighted down, this the bar clamps will be held in alignment by the bars themselves so now you can tighten the bar clamp bolts down. 25 ft/lbs for those.
  8. I know this doesn't exactly answer your question, but to avoid crashing next time you stall in the air, land with the clutch pulled in. That was a hard thing for me to get used to at first, cause with the 2 smoke, you just land in gear and bump start eaisly, the 4-stroke jerks alot harder when landing a stalled bike in gear. Land with the clutch pulled and after you touch down, then pop it to restart the bike. BTW, I have and '02 and used to have problems with stalling during break taps and in turns, then instead of cranking up the idle, I just made jetting changes. Now I always rejet my bike for temp/altitude changes and I don't have a problem with the stalling anymore.
  9. Love the yellow, hate the polished frame.
  10. Last time I bought a radiator, it was about $90 through http://www.servicehonda.com/.
  11. First of all, it won't damage the seals leaving the bike tied down, what blows fork seals is when the bike is tied down too tight while moving and you hit a large bump, the quick impact causes too much pressure and blows the seals. When the suspension is at rest, there isn't pressure on the seals, for this reason, you should always put something between the lower clamp and the tire when trailering. You can buy fork savers or just a good 'ol block of wood works. Second, what you will damage by leaving the bike tied down are the springs. After time, having the springs compressed will cause them to sack out.
  12. Just use the Storm Link. One part, less money, same result. Trick anodized red color. http://www.stormcycles.com/
  13. BEST ENDURANCE WITHOUT THE BAD STUFF.....pedilite (yes, the childs drink) It's designed to replenish nutriants and rehydrate the body for kids that are sick with diareha. It's not a diareha medicine, it's basicaly a gatorade type drink, but works much better than gatorade.
  14. From my experiance, I use the 80W/85W during the warm summer months, but I found the clutch works better and the trans shifts better with just the normal 10w40 in the cold months
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