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davidl9999

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About davidl9999

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    TT Addict

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  • Location
    California
  • Interests
    If it has an engine, I'm there!

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  1. davidl9999

    What did you do to your WR today?

    Put a No-Toil pre-lubed filter in it (which is a little cheezy on the mating surface, so plenty of marine grease went on it) and went for a ride on the ranch. Fwiw, I've used UNI filters forever, but with the last UNI, the seams just seemed to disintegrate after a good cleaning. What's up with THAT???
  2. If you want to give it a try: Dip a phillips screwdriver in valve grinding compound. That often grabs the screw enough that a regular screwdriver can be used without rounding out the screw head.
  3. davidl9999

    What did you do to your WR today?

    Went riding in Cal City.
  4. davidl9999

    What did you do to your WR today?

    Rode it!
  5. davidl9999

    Making fun of motorcycle brands

    hahahahaha!!!!
  6. davidl9999

    Interesting Problem (WR 450 Help)

    What he said. The right way to fix that bolt hole is to helicoil or timesert it, unless you just avoid the problem altogether.
  7. davidl9999

    What did you do to your WR today?

    Yeah, if my gloves are too tight, I wind up holding my hands funny and they get tired quickly. On the other end of the spectrum, I had a pair of gloves that were comfy but just a little too long in the fingers and I wound up catching the end of the index fingers under my thumbs. Not cool...
  8. davidl9999

    Jetting Question. (Complicated)

    Start on the 3rd clip (imo). (or just leave it where it is) Get the pilot (idle) and main circuits (@ WOT) set properly. Then adjust the needle up or down a clip at a time until you have the best midrange control - not necessarily the best midrange power.
  9. davidl9999

    Jetting Question. (Complicated)

    It's all great to just pick a jet, but you really should test the jetting yourself. Ride the bike, see if it's lean or rich, what circuit(s) need to be adjusted, and jet accordingly.
  10. davidl9999

    Fork Leaks and Related Questions

    Pretty much a $20 plastic version of a block of wood that goes between the tire and front fender under the clamp. Has two wings that go against the fork tubes to put it in the right position and keep it from twisting. I like 'em.
  11. davidl9999

    really hot engine!?

    They can also seize if you don't do some basic stuff to them first. So can bikes. Just sayin'...
  12. davidl9999

    2003 RM125 problems

    Part #26, under the intake bell. http://shop.thumpertalk.com/oem.asp?partcategory=87629&manufacturer=5&category=3&year=2003&model=1990 Sorry, I don't have a good picture of that location and couldn't find one.
  13. davidl9999

    sputters at max rpm and WOT. jetting?

    Sputtering at WOT has nothing to do with the fuelscrew. "pretty sure" means nothing. You either know, or you don't. So you don't. Check them against the JD chart that came with the kit (or ask Eddie about it). Anyway, back to sputtering. Usually that's lean. "burbling" a different sound to me, is rich. You can check the plug - if it's really black, it's rich. Pretty hard to tell on a 4T if it's just a little lean. So... Try 1 size richer (bigger) on the Main Jet. If that's better, go 1 size richer again until you get past the point where the power peaks and the bike "burbles". Then go back down one jet size and leave it alone. If going richer makes the bike run worse, you're too rich already. Go 1 size leaner (smaller) than you were and find the power peak the same way as above (just go smaller). If the bike just runs like crap no matter which way you go with the MJ, make sure the airfilter is clean, the gas is fresh, the valves are adjusted, and you have a fresh spark plug installed. You might also need to clean the carb before it runs right again. Stator problems or a bad ground or harness connector can make you not have a good spark at WOT, so it's something to think about. Hopefully it's just a jetting change or a good carb cleaning that's needed. Setting the fuelscrew is done at a fast idle. You should be able to find the peak RPM at between 1 turn open (from all the way closed, which is clockwise if you're looking at the adjustement end of the fuelscrew) and 2.5 turns open. Search for a thread on tuning the carb. It's not hard, but I just don't feel like typing all that stuff right now. Good luck!
  14. davidl9999

    fork seal shot

    OEM for seals, Bel-Ray or Motul for fork oil (imo), but can't say that I've ever tried a fork oil that didn't perform well. The manual has the quantity/level info. Download one from the WR250F forum if you don't have one. Yes on the fork and shock springs. No on the valves and shim stack until you put your forks back together and are happy with the seal job. If you have a problem with the valves/shims, it's best not to confuse that with the regular maintenance activity you just did. Makes finding the real problem much harder. You also don't really want to revalve/shim the forks if you don't do the shock at the same time. Makes the bike ride like crap. IMO, just take the bike or send the forks/shock to your local quality tuner. I like the work that both RT and FC have done. I hear good things about some others, but haven't used them. Yes and no. Yes they work - until something gritty gets trapped underneath and scores the fork tube. Then your wallet hates you. Some people have good luck with them. I don't run them (anymore). Better to ruin a seal than replace a tube.
  15. davidl9999

    2003 RM125 problems

    If the airscrew does nothing, then the carb most likely needs to be cleaned - internal jets and airjets too. Unless you're on the main jet (needle), the airscrew must be able to adjust the pilot circuit A/F ratio, which will change the idle RPMs. If it doesn't do that, the pilot circuit isn't working correctly. Next step for the clutch is to pull it and check the basket fingers for grooves.
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