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About hi_im_sean

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  1. hi_im_sean

    09' 200 XC-W ring end gap

    You mean 0.0157"?
  2. hi_im_sean

    09' 200 XC-W ring end gap

    Rebuilding a 2009 200XC-W, new Vertex piston and fresh replate from power seal. I'm conflicted, the KTM service manual says 0.015" is the maximum service limit, but has no stated minimum. When building a motor the minimum is important. My Vertex piston instructions say 0.006"-0.009" per inch of bore, MINIMUM, which works out to 0.015"-0.023". So Vertex's smallest minimum is KTMs service limit.... Having said all that, the vertex ring gaps were 0.019" and 0.021" out of the box, but Id like to know what the safe minimum is on these. I've trashed a brand new plated cylinder in the past when following the smaller of the minimums on one of my kawasakis. Kawi said 0.012" and wiseco says 0.016" minimum, I went with the Kawi number and wiseco was correct. Id like to avoid that again. So I ask, what are you guys gapping your rings at on the 200 motors?
  3. hi_im_sean

    KDX200/220 Jetting Database

    Good way to ruin a thread guys. This is data collection, stop having conversations in here. If you need to trouble shoot, start your own damn thread.
  4. hi_im_sean

    KDX200/220 Jetting Database

    MJ should be no larger than 152 for AZ.
  5. hi_im_sean

    KIPS - Top End Info and How To kdx200

    when jetted right, these engines run so well.
  6. hi_im_sean

    2001 kx 250 weak front brakes

    EBC sintered metal. they have 2 versions, the long life "R", and the race "MXS", and i honestly dont know which one i use. probably the cheaper one, the R i think. ever since i went to sintered pads in the front, im super happy with these brakes. they are "1 finger will throw you over the bars", and modulation is fantastic. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1883/4442/EBC-Brake-Pad-Sintered-Metal?v=2802 the lever is still mushy, but after a few rides i think the rest of the air "shook out" so i cant pull them back to the bars. the lever just never really stops solid like my other bikes, it always feel like theres a spring behind it. and btw, i highly recommend you do not use the sintered pads on the rear of any bike. they work so well, its make the rears overly sensitive.
  7. hi_im_sean

    KDX200 Touchy Rear Brake

    weird, have you ever tried it? im dubious
  8. hi_im_sean

    KIPS - Top End Info and How To kdx200

    so the top end i did to illustrate this write up finally wore out. the hour meter broke about 10hr in and i never replaced it, but i would guess that this top end has 300+hours on it, and that is being conservative. i have beat the hell out of this motor. its seen a few races, a 10hr GP, lots of mx, and a ridiculous amount of single track, as well as lots and lots of sand via the desert washes here in AZ. jetting was usually spot on but sometimes overly rich when i went up in elevation. the only reason i looked into the motor is because it started spooging like crazy. i assumed the reeds were bad(they were) as i hadnt even looked at them since i did this write up. it still ran pretty good and had 140psi cold compression. i pulled the pipe off and noticed the PV was kissing the piston. the linkages wore just enough to drop the main valve into the cylinder just a few thousandths. that prompted the tear down. what i wanted to show in this post is how well the break in procedure described in the write up seated the rings, and how well a diet of strictly 32:1 maxima 927 castor oil has worked. there was only one 3-4 hour ride where i forgot my oil and had to use generic wal-mart 2 stroke oil, still mixed at 32:1. other than that, every minute this engine ran was on maxima 927. the piston. this is exactly how it came out of the motor. i dint wipe it down with a rag or anything. absolutely no blow by. 0. the carbon deposits on the top of the crown are bizarre, although i have seen patterns like that in other 2 strokes. the areas where there is no carbon are whistle clean. if you look really close you can see where the left edge of the main valve just started making contact with the piston. its the smeared spot just below the crown where the carbon was trying to invade from the increased wall clearance. i didnt measure the piston diameter because the skirts are clearly worn out. especially on the intake side where the transfer ports are located, they wore a shallow slot into the skirt. heres the other side where the main valve was making more contact. although it appears otherwise in the pic, the rings were free and not stuck. cylinder head. this is how it came off the bike, again, i did not clean at all or wipe with a rag. the deposit at about 2 oclock i wiped with my finger to see if it was a soft or hard deposit, but no material was removed. it was goeey like adhesive. which i assume to be part of my air filter than was chemically disolving on the last ride (&%$#@! you no toil*) as similar deposits were found in the intake tract and carb. not one bit of carbon. a paper towel and some brake clean had it looking like new in 5 seconds. this head has the head mod(pretty sure RB, cant remember) for pump gas and was polished, which may have something to do with it. the PV was unexpectedly filthy, but still operated smoothly. the bid end thrust bearings have gained 0.006" more side clearance since i did this write up. *no toil- i didnt like the fact that only their cleaner will cut their weird oil to begin with(cant just grab a can of brake cleen and go at it), but i also found out that some combination of what i would assume to be time and arizona garage heat breaks down their oil into something that attacks foam air filters. this is just my hypothesis, as $150 in filters just got ruined when i went to clean them all a few weeks ago. i switched to no toil about a year and a half ago. i have 2-3 filters for each bike and i clean them in batches and rotate them out, so they all got oiled at once and have sat in various states of use for the last year and a half. the 6 years preceding no toil, i have never had an issue, regardless of how long they sat, or how hot they got in the garage.they literally fell apart when they hit the cleaning solution this time around and my bikes all have bugers(like balled up rubber cement type shit from the filter) in the intake tracts. back to maxima hydrocarbon based filter oil for me.
  9. hi_im_sean

    2001 kx 250 weak front brakes

    i went through hell with my 01 brakes. i never updated my thread: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/583758-hybrid-brake-problem/ but the fix was to run the "right" pads and get it bled all the way. through that whole thread, linked above, i was using carbon pads which have a very low coefficient of friction and was basically the problem. SS lines didnt make a bit of difference. only high friction sintered pads made these work. im very happy with these brakes now, a super light pull on the lever makes the bike stop and they modulate very nicely.
  10. hi_im_sean

    Pro Taper triple clamp problem- 05 kx250

    yea, that wont cost more than the triple calmps themselves or anything. nor would that work. OP, do you know in which plane or direction they arnt parrallel?
  11. hi_im_sean

    How much would you value this 2007 kx250 at?

    thats about right, or maybe even a little on the low end. if it checks out, id have no problem paying that much for it.
  12. hi_im_sean

    KDX200 Touchy Rear Brake

    i find that most bikes have a touchy rear break. they just work to well, and we have little to no feeling with the footwear we use. all my kdxs, my drz and my kxs were too touchy for me. the easiest fix ive found is to run the pad with the lowest coefficient of friction. i have found the ebc carbon x race pads(the red ones) to suck in just the right way. everyone of my bikes wears these on the rear now. whenever i get a new bike, i immediately install carbon x's into the rear. and as a plus they last longer than any other pad ive run and will not fade. im unsure what slotting the pads is going to do? if you think it will reduce braking force via reduced pad area, youre wrong. friction is independent of surface areas when discussing solid materials, like a pad against a rotor.
  13. hi_im_sean

    Transmission problem 06 kx250

    you can verify/check by doing a leak down test. you can make your own leakdown tester at lowes racing for about $20. google is your friend
  14. hi_im_sean

    Kdx 220 fuel issue

    it wont cause your problem and isnt entirely necessary. i havnt had one in mine for many years without issues edit: now that i think of it, i dont think they came on kdxs and mine may have never had one.