mjg15

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About mjg15

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  1. The fiche picture you have shows an E-start cradle and front mount (part #6 on right diagram). I think that the mount locations on these parts may differ from kick-start bottom end. You may want to find a cradle and mount from a DR125/200 kick start bike if these dont fit. I'm working on fitting an E-start 200 in a Drz125 frame, and I know that the mount points on the downtube of the frame (front mounts) are different on E and kick start motors.
  2. If you just swap your top end (from base gasket up), it will be easier, paperwork aside. In the US, they don't record engine numbers, and maybe it's not a big deal there either. It may be less trouble than doing a complete bottom end/trans job for the first time. You can use a DR125, SP125, Dr100, or SP100 bottom end. All are 6 speed, although there are slight differences between them, which may make mixing and matching tough, which is why I suggest getting a complete unit if possible
  3. Because the thread title is DR100, I'll put a picture of one of those in here too. I bought this almost 10 years ago. It probably had 1 tank of gas run through it ever. I use it as a pit bike.
  4. I've raced the Drz with 17's twice, both at TT's. Works well. I just got a top triple clamp that moves the bars forward almost 2", so that will make it better. I'm planning to put an E-start bottom end in it, and when I do, I can move the pegs down and back a bit. The 200 motor really makes a nice bike out of the 125, Suzuki should just make them that way. If you find a kickstart 200, it's an easy swap. Bolts right in, and 125 electrics will fit on motor. The motor is about 12mm taller (all in the cylinder), so head stay triangles wont fit, carb area is a little tight (VM or oem are OK), and pipe bolt near swingarm pivot wont line up. You really have to watch Ebay to grab one. I recently got an SP200 from an ebay seller, so they're out there. If you get an E-start 200, you'll have to rework the lugs for the 2 front engine mount bolts on the frame downtube, but the rear mounts are fine. These are always a lot of money though, it seems, and a lot of sellers strip starters and stators before the sell them.
  5. You'll need complete trans and all forks and drum. There are differences in some of the output shafts too. It can be done, you just may get a surprise or two along the way. Best bet is probably to get an older Dr125 or SP125 bottom end, with all clutch, starter, and trans parts. Cases are the same, so if you have everything, you'll be OK
  6. They jump out of gear, seems more of a problem on pavement where's there's no wheel slip. Seems that 3-4 shift is where the problem is most often. Undercutting should cure it. We'll see
  7. Looks like a 25P, 190M, 57c5 needle @ middle clip pos., 1.5 slide w/ some grinding done to it to make it a 2.0, or so. I did an hour or two of test runs and changes to get to that point, so it should be pretty close.
  8. The pistons end up being about $200 ea, IIRC, but they take quite a while (much longer than quoted). The KX parts look good on there, should be a cool bike when you get it all finished! I'll have to take a closer look at using the stuff that I have. Do you have a local track that runs the mad dog class? We have Lodi near here, they have some good TT races (one last Sat that I didn't get ready for in time). No mad dog, but they have a 150f and 230f class, so close enough. Next up is putting something together for a 24hr roadrace Labor Day weekend. I have a few Drz's: Yellow in front is a 190 (stock carb) with a Works shock, runs great, but I have no idea what's actually inside because I bought it as built. Yellow 48 has a 265cc DR200, RM forks, KX shock, and 17's. I've since swapped in a 224cc engine with a PWK28 Other yellow one is actually still a stock engine 125 with BBR springs, top clamp, and Supertrapp Blue bike has a stock DR200 motor, stock 125 carb/airbox/pipe. Quiet, torquey play bike.
  9. I was running 50/50 C12 and 91. Bike shifted itself from 4th to 3rd while at full revs, motor quickly became junk. Getting all race trans undercut from now on.
  10. 100, 125, and 200 cranks all use the same taper on the flywheel side, so all of the flywheels are interchangeable. You''l want to get a matching stator for the flywheel, as the diameters of those vary between different models.
  11. I'll take a look inside the VM26 that I have, and see whats in there. You're not too far from the way I had it when I last ran it (61 piston, E.O pipe, and a Web 213 or 214), so should be a good start
  12. I got them done thru JE. Got 3 sets of four, for various configurations I'm messing with. What are you doing with the KX100 stuff? I have a KX shock in one of my bikes, and another shock and swingarm sitting in the corner. I was thinking of putting it on a drz125 chassis, with Estart 200 engine.
  13. I think everybody with cool Drz125's left
  14. Flywheel needs specific puller, but they are cheap and easy to find. The stator is held on by three phillips screws IIRC. Heating the flywheel a bit helps it come off easy, but isn't really necessary. That race was part of the SupermotoUSA series. It was an all dirt TT at Thunderhill Raceway in NorCal. I also ran my big motor DRz125 in the 230 class. I think it was a one-off race on that track. Hopefully they have more. I just got custom pistons made for running the 100 head with a +1mm 125 piston. We have a series with a 128cc class, and that combo works great. Fortunately, the motor that popped in the video was just a test build with stock 125 piston, and not one of my new ones.
  15. You can build a really nice 6 speed 125cc engine from it. Small combustion chamber and ports, works great on 125, but you need to cut deeper valve pockets in 125 piston. That's what I'm running in this video: If you're looking to use the 100 motor in your 125 while it's apart, you can swap the flywheel and stator from the 125 onto the 100 motor. Should be plug-and-play from there. It was my first few laps at that track, and it blew up at the end, but that happens to 35 year old valves turning 12k rpms....