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mjg15

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About mjg15

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  1. Sounds like you've damaged the selector mechanism behind the clutch, or bent a shift fork, which is between the cases
  2. Motor will fit, pretty sure nothing else will. You may try welding a cradle under your motor on the DRz frame
  3. Should be fine, looks like a little less lift and duration than a 188 (.340 lift, 244 deg @.050)
  4. TTR125 carb will probably work too
  5. Should be OK. What are the specs? I've run the WEB188 with stock springs. If you compare the two, and they are similar, you should be fine. Typically, stage 1 stuff is drop-in, but verify first
  6. OEM from 86-'88 DR200's pop up on Ebay. You may also find one from a DRz250 https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d39b05f8700229982f3e12/carburetor-e3-e28
  7. Post any updates of your build, this forum could use a little action.
  8. EO kit is indeed 70mm, and comes in 10.5:1 and 12:1. In 125/200 swap, you can use the oil pump, stator/flywheel, and cases. The primary gear is not interchangeable, due to 2mm larger crank OD on 200 (20mm vs 18mm), and a different number of teeth (19 vs 17 IIRC). Due to different tooth count, 125 clutch basket wont work, and since the clutch doesn't work, neither will the K-start idler gear (which btw sits on a larger diam shaft on the 200. Even the shift detent roller is a different diameter. You'll need a complete transmission with detent roller (which is mounted between case halves). You'll also need the crank, primary gear, clutch basket, kick start idler gear, and the obvious stuff like cam chain, longer studs, and cam chain guides. No case machining is need if you use a 200 cylinder. I had to machine mine to use an LT250s cylinder, which accepts the 71mm piston that I used on my 265cc engine, without resleeving. I think that you can find all of those 200 clutch and transmission parts on ebay, and they should be pretty reasonable. Kick start model 200 cranks pop up regularly, but cylinder heads seem to be harder to come by. Other heads, as mentioned in earlier post, will work well too. FWIW, last month I bought a complete SP200 bottom end (minus covers), cam chain/guides, and head for about $300.
  9. That doesn't look like that kit would fit. There's really no easy way to get beyond the 150cc mark. there are ways, but they aren't inexpensive. There's a ton of potential in these engines, but to really get it takes a pretty big investment. I have one built to 265cc. It's fast and reliable, but after you have a 200 motor to use as a starting point, it will be a solid $1500 for crank work, case machining, and a big piston, to get to 265cc. And then you can add another $1000 for a cam, valve springs, carb, pipe, etc to get the most from it. If you're willing to spend $3000, you can get more than 25hp. If you scour Ebay, you can find everything that goes into a 200 bottom end, and fit it into your 125 cases. Without getting into fine detail, you will need everything but the cases to make it work. It's quite a few parts, but most can be found inexpensively. The '86-88 DR/SP200 motor is pretty much a bolt-in, but they are hard to find these days. This route can be accomplished pretty reasonably. There's also a pretty good supply of Wiseco +2mm LT230 pistons floating around on ebay that are pretty cheap. LT230 and 250 heads still seem to be easy to find too, and will work well, especially with the matching piston. I would think that for $600-700 you could go this route, and have a 10.5:1 212cc motor that could break the 20hp barrier with a decent carb and pipe. I've built one each way so far, swapping in a 200 bottom end, and transplanting 200 internals. Both engines used stock 200 pistons, . On one of them, I used an LT185 head, and the other one had a DR200 head. The LT185 head raises the compression by about 50 psi, but has smaller valves than a 200. The LT185 heads aren't too hard to find, and will be a good choice if you aren't looking to spend a lot of money on a cam, pipe, and carb. For the same money, $700 +/-, you can do an Engines Only 190 kit (188cc). These are quick, easy, and available, and will give most of what you will get with a 200 swap, without as much work rounding up all the parts and pieces. Most, if not all of this info, has been covered in the "interesting mods" thread, and in the cam thread, which I think is a sticky at the top. Check out those threads, if you haven't already, to get more ideas.
  10. Make sure that the carb is totally clean, including any small passages. If you didn't change anything major in the engine, you won't need different jets. Get a liter of S100 and soak the carb for a few hours, and then blow thru everything with a good, strong compressed air source. Then do it again. One step richer on pilot and a TTR needle do help, but it should run pretty well with stock jets. If it isn't rideable with the stock jets, it's not the jets that are the problem.
  11. Yes, they should have a little bit of noticeable clearance. If you move them, you should hear and feel a little movement.
  12. Any links to the 193cc kit?
  13. Finding a 200 motor is probably the easiest way to get to 200cc capacity, you'll need almost everything in the bottom end, and the top-end, to make it work right. The cases are pretty much the only thing that is shared. Next best thing, as far as getting close to 200cc, is a 190 kit from Engines Only. Once you get past the cheap Chinese kits, there's no easy/low cost options. I just recently swapped a 200 into my 125, and it works great, even with the stock carb, pipe and airbox.
  14. Damaged case.
  15. Probably one size up on pilot, and TTR125 oem adjustable needle. Search for jetting thread with lots of opinions and info.