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Tweety Bird

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About Tweety Bird

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  1. Tweety Bird

    Can I add another oil cooler?

    <sigh> OK. Occam's Razor states, "when you have two competing theories that make exactly the same predictions, the simpler one is the better." Then there's that other nasty little thing called the law of unintended consequences. This one gets in the way quite often. Especially when people try to out-engineer the engineers. They forget (or don't understand) how one seemingly simple change over HERE can affect the way something else works over THERE. The OP wanted to know if he could put a second oil cooler on his bike. Of course, the short answer is, "yes". The rest of the story, as I simply tried to point out above, is more complicated. I rather suspect that most people who would attempt something like this would simply mount and plumb the oil cooler, check it for leaks and ride it. And feel good that their oil is now running much cooler (many people don't even realize that oil can run too cool). Maybe the OP would have done it that way, maybe not. It's not for me to predict what anyone is planning in their mind and for all I know, he was planning on some sort of oil temp control circuit if he added a second cooler. I mention this simply because of what I've seen in 35 years of wrenching on and teaching the inner workings of machinery and systems that are easily 100 times more complicated than the wonderfully simple machine that is a DR. Yes, I understand what happens when oil temps run too high or too low. Yes, I understand how thermostats work (not only on oil but pneumatic and air conditioning temp control, as well). So go ahead and add your second cooler for your trips to Africa. No skin off my nose. When the engine corrodes from within because the oil never gets hot enough to boil out the moisture, you can add the extra complexity of a thermostat. I guess it doesn't matter that a second oil cooler doubles the chances of a rock disabling your machine, because you're going to carry the tools and equipment necessary to bypass any failure that might occur in the middle of the African continent. Personally, I'll avoid the added complexity and risk and ride mine with the stock oil cooler. I'll ride mine in the cool air and steep roads of our mountains; in the 100+ degree days of the prairie and desert; on road and off; fast and slow; highway and dirt roads; some days I'll ride it easy, other days I'll flog the hell out of it. And I betcha mine runs just as long as yours does with all your add-ons. Maybe longer. But in the end, none of this matters to me; if it spins your crank, do it. One of the great things about this sport is that everybody can make their machine uniquely theirs. I was simply trying to give the OP a heads-up that it's not only more complex than he may have originally thought, but that in my opinion, it's completely unnecessary. The amount of paranoia around here about cylinder head temps, oil temps, 200-mile oil change intervals and the like absolutely astounds me. Keep the oil cooler free of crap; keep the cylinder and head cooling fins clean; keep the crankcase full of relatively clean and fresh oil. Do all these things and I don't think you need to worry about overheating. I suspect that the annectodal cases of overheating can be directly attrributable to operator error, either in the form of no preventative maintenance, or modifications done without consideration for the rest of the bike as a complete system. OK, now it's your turn to judge whether these thoughts were or weren't very convincing. Just to make sure you understand, I don't give a damn what you think. But I stand by my comment. If you need a second oil cooler on this bike, you're riding the wrong machine.
  2. Tweety Bird

    Can I add another oil cooler?

    You say so..... (remaining thoughts left unwritten)
  3. Tweety Bird

    Can I add another oil cooler?

    Sure. Let's make this nice, simple bike just that more complicated. Says Bubba to Jim Bob, "Lookie here, y'all, we'll add an extra oil cooler to keep the oil temp DOWN; than we'll stick in this here thermostat to keep the oil temp UP." I'm having a hard time figuring out why anyone would think they need added oil cooling on this thing. If you're going to ride it so hard to make this necessary, you have the wrong machine to begin with.
  4. Tweety Bird

    Can I add another oil cooler?

    I'd think that unless you're going to work it REALLY hard, almost all the time, an additional oil cooler would result in your oil temp being too low.
  5. Tweety Bird

    engine or clutch problem?

    I think you pretty much described a slipping clutch in your last post. Go for it. Replacing the clutch is a simple job. A few things of note: 1) When you take the bolts out of the clutch cover, make sure you identify each screw and make note of where it came from because there are several different lengths. 2) Be careful not to lose the O-ring on the oil line. 3) Don't over-torque the bolts and screws when you reassemble. (The big nut inside the clutch basket only gets 36 ft. lb. or something; make sure you have a new lock tab to stake the nut upon reassembly. You don't even have to remove the basket to replace the clutch soft and hard parts but if you can get it off, see item #4.) 4) Lock-Tite the Neutral Switch screws while you have the clutch basket off. 5) Putting the clutch cover back on might try your patience a bit as you engage the clutch actuation mechanism. Don't be surprised if you try one position and find it to be wrong as you get the cover home. Just lift it back off, reposition the clutch arm a bit and try again.
  6. Tweety Bird

    What do you use for GPS

    I have a cheap TomTom One that I used. I just took the stem off of the mount (my nephew broke it anyway), drilled the mount for a couple countersunk screw heads, and mounted it to the crossbar with 2 Adel clamps. Wired in a cigar lighter socket so I didn't even have to modify the TomTom cord. The GPS just slides into the mount and the cord plugs into the bottom. If it rains, I can take it off in 5 seconds; if I park in a public place, I slip it off and put it in my pocket. Biggest trouble is that it's not designed to be read easily in direct sunlight but I only use it for tips on routing so it doesn't matter to me much if I have to stop to examine it.
  7. Tweety Bird

    Another upper roller gone.......

    I really don't think an "upgraded" roller would help this situation because it isn't that cheap factory roller itself that's failing. If you look at the frames damaged by this thing, it's the threaded boss being pulled out of the structure that's leaving the hole. The type of roller had nothing to do with it. Under heavy compression of the rear shock, the chain isn't pulling in a straight line from the top of the countershaft sprocket to the top of the rear wheel sprocket. All you need now is a large amount of power applied through that chain; in its desire to pull in a straight line, the chain simply rips the roller bolt (and the threaded boss) right out of the frame.
  8. Tweety Bird

    Synthetic oil change, how many miles?

    I agree with schleppy. I believe most change their oil far more often than is truly necessary but especially since it's only a couple of quarts, change it more often if it makes you more comfortable. The only way to REALLY tell would be to have the oil analyzed in a lab (instead of just the old MK-I eyeball). It would be interesting to see the results of a series of lab tests after 500, 1000, 2000 and 4000 mile intervals.
  9. Tweety Bird

    [B]HELP! Found plug disconnected under seat![/B]

    I still haven't quite sorted out that O/W thing, but I just realized that the pre '98 and later bikes have different wiring diagrams. The pre-'98 diagram is pretty confusing and I think I've been alternately looking at one and then the other. So from what you wrote, it appears that you have two problems; my 35 years in aviation electronics tells me that two separate problems occuring at the same time is highly unlikely. On the '98 and subsequent bikes, the O/W wire runs from the CDI unit directly to the kill switch. The kill switch gets power from the sidestand relay, and the relay gets its power from the key switch. The sidestand relay is controlled by two things; the neutral switch and the sidestand switch. As long as the engine is in neutral, the sidestand relay is closed. If the engine is not in neutral, the relay is controlled by the sidestand switch; if the sidestand is up, the relay is closed. So, the O/W wire should be just like I stated in my edit; 12V with the key switch ON, the kill switch ON, and either the tranny in neutral OR the sidestand UP. If you aren't getting 12V on the O/W wire in this condition, you might try jumping the O/B wire at the relay with either of the O wires. This effectively bypasses the relay contacts. If you have power with the jumper in place, you either have a bad relay or the control circuit of the relay has failed. I'd be pretty concerned with that open circuit (Bl toi G) through the stator circuit. You might want to chase the wires from the CDI to where they enter the case. The wiring diagram doesn't show a disconnect in these wires anywhere between the CDI and the case, though that seems sort of strange to me (would make it hard to remove the engine without some sort of disconnect). Did you have your ohmmeter set to the proper range for this check of the stator? (I'm not trying to be insulting but I've seen lots of seasoned "professionals" forget this step.)
  10. Tweety Bird

    [B]HELP! Found plug disconnected under seat![/B]

    There are actually 2 connectors on the bike with these wires to it, and my book shows that neither one is connected to anything on US bikes. Checks you can make at the CDI unit: On the small CDI connector, 4 wires come from the stator W to B (power source from stator), check continuity (.1 to .2 ohms; difficult to accurately measure with the average homeowner's meter but if it's something less than 1 ohm, and is NOT shorted to ground, this portion of the stator is probably OK) Bl to G (pickup coil from stator), check for continuity (170 to 256 ohms) On the large CDI connector B/W, check for continuity to ground W/Bl, check for continuity through the coil primary side to ground (.07 to .12 ohms, difficult to read with the average homeowner's meter; if there is continuity and it's something less than 1 ohm, the primary side of the coil is probably OK). O/W, should have 12V with kill switch in RUN, and (either the kickstand is DOWN or the tranny is in NEUTRAL) (see edit below) O/Y, check for continuity to ground with ignition switch in RUN G/Bl, not connected (no continuity to ground, no power) B, not connected (no continuity to ground, no power) I haven't had to make these checks on my bike and the above is from reading the wiring diagram in the service manual. Let us know what you find. Edit: Upon further review - on the O/W wire, I'm not sure that what I wrote above is correct. I believe that this is the line that will result in the engine shutting down if you put the kickstand down with the bike in gear, so I'll have to reflect on the logic of this for a while. I believe the logic should actually be, "12V with the key switch in RUN, and the kill switch in RUN, and (sidestand UP or the tranny in NEUTRAL)" The 12V actually comes from the sidestand relay, which is controlled by the neutral switch and the sidestand switch. If I get it figured out any better, I'll edit this again. In the meantime, maybe someone else knows this. I'm pretty sure all the other statements are accurate, however.
  11. Tweety Bird

    2008 dr 650se clutch meltdown........

    The trouble with internet discussions on oil is that everybody uses only the "best" oil in their machine, yet everyone uses something different. Often times, a discussion of oil morphs into something that is virtually indistinguishable from a discussion of religion or politics. Just use one that meets Suzuki's specs and you'll be fine.
  12. Tweety Bird

    2008 dr 650se clutch meltdown........

    What oil have you been running? Clutched wheelies? Lots of slllooooowwwww single-track? BTW, you must have a GREAT wife to allow you to work on your clutch on the bed covers. ;-)
  13. Tweety Bird

    Flickering brake light

    I've seen it a hundred times in my aviation career; a bulb acts like this so you think, "it lights up, it can't be a bad bulb." But trust me, it can. So start with a new bulb. It's the cheapest and easiest thing to do and even if it doesn't fix it (and it may not), you're only out a few minutes and a few dimes.
  14. Tweety Bird

    Noticeable power at loose end of the spec?

    Yeah, that's about it. At least in theory. But I also think that the performance difference between loose valves and tight valves will be so negligible as to be unnoticeable, at least on a stock bike. So the main concern, at least to me, is longevity. I say, set 'em on the loose side and ride it.
  15. Tweety Bird

    Noticeable power at loose end of the spec?

    Loose valves will cost you some lift; if you set the lash too wide by .002, you'll get .002" less lift. I don't think that's noticeable. Probably more noticeable than the loss of power due to less lift would be the better breathing at high RPM because with wider valve lash, you're effectively delaying the opening of the valves a slight amount; it's sort of a poor man's way of retading the camshaft in an effort to get more top-end power. In the same fashion, tight lash will "advance" the cam to provide more low-end grunt. You also get all your lift but possibly at a cost; as the miles add up, the valve and valve seat wear, in effect putting the valve deeper into the head. This decreases the valve lash even further. Carried to the extreme, it could possibly result in a situation where a hot engine has zero lash, which is bad because now the valve doesn't close fully on the seat, and you end up with burned valves (and maybe the seat, too), costing you compression (not to mention the $$$). All that said, I doubt the more/less lift or the advanced/retarded cam is really noticeable on these things, at least in stock or near-stock trim. I'm much more concerned about valve life. So, I always set mine at the loosest end of the tolerance. Yeah, the valves are a bit noisy but I think they're happier that way. And as the valves and seats wear, the clearance decreases and things quiet down a bit.