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Miker

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About Miker

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    TT Bronze Member

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  • Location
    California
  1. Miker

    K&N filters..Whats your opinion?

    I was not happy that the previous owner of my 2004 F150 had installed a K&N on it. I hate driving it in any dusty conditions. K&N filters pass more air because they pass more dirt too. Even there own advertising says they filter better as they get dirty. Foam soaked air filter oil is the only way to go!
  2. I overtightend the fork cap to the damper rod and snaped off the top. The threads of the damper rod stayed in the fork cap. do I have to replace the whole damper rod assembly? It is listed as one piece in the manual.
  3. I bought an 07WR 450 just before New Years for the New years day Poker run at Chappie in Redding CA. I did all the free mods as well as greased the linkage, swingarm and steering head. WHile the shock was out I replaced the stock spring with a 6.0. I weigh in at 225 nekad I was about to put a set of 49s in the forks when lo and behold they did not fit. Parts guys ordered wrong set! So I rode the bike with the stock fork springs and a 6.0 rear setting the sag at 4 inchs. Heres the thing I loved it! The bike steered like it was on rails but did use all the suspension in the front quite a bit. Today I went for a ride with the 49s in place and although the bike worked well it seemed almost too stiff. It seemed to work well when ridden fast but a little nervous at slow speeds. I did however bottom it once very hard. Clank! Both rides were done with the clickers front and rear in their stock positions. I am wondering if I just drop the forks in the clamps if I will get the inspired steering I felt with the stock springs. The 49s make the front ride height taller. (not much sag but some.) Or should the clickers be tweaked some with the heavier springs? (front or rear)? I will say this I sit more than I should but I can ride . Not as fast as I once was. Risk reward at 50 year old priorities. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
  4. Miker

    WR Jetting Woes

    William, The AIS removal kit from yamaha comes with a different needle, A main air jet(???), a 50 pilot a 175 main, and a smaller leak jet. The needle should have no effect at idle nor should the main. I am wondering though about the main air jet. You screw it in to the bell of the carb where there is no jet originally. So here is my current set up; AIS removed. Stock exhaust with 96db GYTR tip. Grey wire mod. Needle from AIS kit at 4th notch from top. 170 main jet. 45 pilot. Leak jet from kit Main air jet from kit. Throttle stop screw from kit. Stock fuel screw at 1.5 turns. I left the snorkle in the airbox. The small amount of size increase does not seem worth it if you think of all the mud and water that gets on top of the airbox draining directly on top of the filter. As stated when I had the 48 pilot the screw had zero effect. With the 45 pilot it has a very small effect at closed the bike will miss but will not die. I slowed the idle before I tested. Should I go to a 42 pilot?? I too thought these bikes were lean stock with the exhaust plugged. Going with a leaner than stock jet after opening up the exhaust does not make sense. So I guess I don't get it.
  5. Miker

    WR Jetting Woes

    I think there is somthing else going on here. I too have an 07 WR450 and I had the same problem. I did not even bother with the 50 pilot that came with the kit I went with a 48. I also did not use the 175 main that the kit came with. I went with a 170. I had a MSR fuel screw which had zero effect on the bike. I changed the screw for the stock one and still no difference. I read up on the air jet thinking that might be it but that does not seem to be the issue either. I just changed out the pilot back to a 45 and now the fuel screw does effect the idle but the bike will not die if the screw is turned all the way in. I am thinking of going to a 42 pilot. I am at 400 feet above sea level and about 55 degrees. Something in the GYTR AIS removal kit is making the bike run richer at idle. What the heck is up?
  6. Miker

    Milage?

    I got a 3.1 IMS in black. You will need shrouds off a YZ though.
  7. Anybody have it? Pics? I need to reverse mine for installation on the 97 WR 450 sub mount. I would like to make one or am open to ideas on getting it off without damaging the damper.
  8. Can the pilot jet be romoved from the fcr carb through the bottom main cover bolt? Or does the float bowl have to be removed?
  9. Eddie or JD please help here. Do I want to put a leaner pilot back in my bike? A 45 comes stock and I have a 48 in it now. Is there somthing else that could be wrong? PLease help!!
  10. The fuel screw was not the problem. The bike ran the same with the stock fuel screw. The screw has no effect on the bikes idle. The bike did rip though. It was way more planted than my 03 525 ever was! GO YAMAHA!!!!!
  11. Thanks. I hope you are right!
  12. Fuel screw is a MSR HP Tucer Rocky part# 34-2069
  13. I read`the posts from James and Eddie on the main air jets function so I doubt that that is the problem. I am just reaching for straws here. Remember that the bike seems to run great although the fuel screw has no effect on the way it runs.
  14. I am starting to wonder if my problem is because of the main air jet that was supplied with the kit. In looking through the jetting database and the mod database I do not see anyone saying anything about that jet. The main air jet (a#110) supplied with the kit is installed into the bell of the carb in a hole that is already there from the factory but is normaly open although threaded. If you look at the back of the carb with the subframe and airbox tilted up you will see two small holes at the bottom of the bell. The left hole looking from the back contains the factory installed slow air jet. The hole just to the right of that is where the kit instructs you to install the main air jet supplied in the kit. Why would the hole be unused before? Could this jet have changed the carb making a 48 pilot too rich? That the kit comes with a 50 pilot though makes me doubt it. I am going crazy here!!
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