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SPUTTER

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About SPUTTER

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    California
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    staying healthy enough to ride

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  1. SPUTTER

    Misfire at full throttle

    Sometimes, if it acts overly rich, it is - but not from jetting. After checking out ignition issues, you may want to swap carbs with someone and see if that fixes it. I had purchased a KDX220 that misfired (acted like rich) on top and would not rev out cleanly (sounds a lot like yours)- it turned out to be a bad carb...sometimes an air passage gets blocked internally - rare but it does happen. (I've read of others with that issue too - a bit of carb metal lodges internally-impossible to find). I had completely torn the carb down, including the jet block, ran wires through everything, compressed air, etc. As soon as I swapped out the carb it ran perfectly. The previous owner had gone to great expense trying to lean out the carb, but nothing worked. The piston and head looked brand new, shiney and clean from too much fuel. Try running it out of gas and see if it revs up higher before it dies as it runs out of fuel.
  2. SPUTTER

    04 KDX200 scotts steering damper

    regarding the bar-brace, you may be able to use the original bar brace with careful bending so it clears the damper. I've done this - the main thing is you want to make sure it is a large radius bend (bowed) so you don't create stress risers - then you can scoot the clamps slightly inboard a bit to make up for the reduced length. If you do it carefully the brace will be just as strong other than the reduction due to the new bowed force vectors, but it will work fine. Renthal did or does still make a bar with the brace bowed to clear the damper, and I'd bet your salary that they bend it cold too.
  3. SPUTTER

    Help please kdx200

    Yes, they fit very well in a KDX chassis. I had an 08 KLR650 that was a pig off-road, so I decided to put the torquey engine in my 97 KDX200 chassis. It needed just a few modifications, heavier fork springs and such, but all in all it only took about 6 or 7 hours to do. I now have a great offroad torque-mobile that can handle anything including supercross tracks. If I had that bike setup back in the day I would have won harescramble overalls instead of being an also-ran. One thing I decided to do was use the KDX dual radiators as the KLR only has one, and with all that power being used to its potential off-road, I figured it needed all the cooling it could get.
  4. SPUTTER

    WR250R?

    I agree with getting an F model. Lots more fun, lighter, more HP and the yamaha F's are pretty solid for valve reliability (unlike the hondas). The WR250r is down on torque in the lower to mid rpm ranges and struggles to lift the front end at lower speeds without a lot of body english.... the F model is a wheelie machine. (I've owned 2).
  5. SPUTTER

    WR250R Weight

    The bike is heavy. If you get in a situation where you need to lift it, you might be in trouble unless you're built like Conan the Barbarian. I enjoy my ride for fireroads, single track that isn't too technical, and so on, but I won't take it on really technical stuff where I take my full-on dirt bikes - even if I don't have to lift it, it just isn't much fun under those conditions. Also...if you are an aggressive rider, the stock rear suspension is screwed up. You'll need to get it revalved to make it work right - usually a couple hundred dollars. So, a street-legal dirt bike (like a plated WR250F) might be better for where you ride. Where the WR250R shines is versatility, it is pretty good on the highway and handles most dirt chores fairly well.
  6. SPUTTER

    race sag for off road

    For a rough estimate of spring matching your weight...when you set the sag at 4" the spring should be compressed between 3/8" and 3/4" - if less than that the spring is on the stiff side for your weight, if more than that it is probably a bit soft - . One thing is to set the sag at 4", ride in the kind of terrain you frequent and then you can adjust for more or less preload. I usually end up setting sag on my KDX's a bit more than 4", as the action seems better through stutters and such (which I always ride a lot of) with no reduction in steering ability. i have no idea why there's a line through all my typing...LOL...
  7. SPUTTER

    KDX 220 CYL/HEAD

    If you end up buying them separately, I have a good 220 head for $30 plus shipping. PM me if interested.
  8. SPUTTER

    kx125 made into 144, as much hp as ktm 150sx?

    You're not near to using the full HP of that yamaha - I bet you'll be disappointed in a lighter bike with a shorter torque curve.
  9. SPUTTER

    Help, need any replacement forks for a 2000 kx

    Adding oil through the top would not cause the problem you describe - it could be something as simple as a broken spring. Working on forks isn't hard at all IMO - I do it all the time with no special tools, just an impact wrench and the allen to spin the compression stack out. There are plenty of videos on youtube on fork maintenance - You won't know what you're getting from ebay either, who knows what's been done to someone else's forks - spring changes, revalves, pitted lower tubes and general wear. Not the way to go unless you're taking them apart to rebuild and setup anyway.
  10. LOL, the wife rules! Around here the bikes value would be similar. Some guys try to get more for the KDX's but in my opinion condition rules the prices on both models. My last KX250 was a 2002 and I sold it and kept a KDX200. I had revalved the KX suspension and stuck a flywheel weight on it, but still always seemed to choose the KDX for trails. The only reason I kept a KX250 was for the occasional hare scrambles, as the KDX was more fun and handled trail riding better. I still push it sometimes tho' so I always recommend aggressive riders upgrade the front KDX suspension - I always stick a set of USD's on them. The KDX has a more comfy seat, the rear shock is off-road valved, the six speed will keep it in the engine's sweet spot, the chassis is short so it has the potential to turn on a dime if it's set up right. I love the dang things. If the bike doesn't already have it, get the FMF woods pipe. Check out Fredette's website for a discussion of what mod's you might want to do, including spring rates. Have fun!
  11. SPUTTER

    just bought kdx, got a question already

    They are noisy little buggers!
  12. SPUTTER

    2000 kdx220 best usd fork option

    As far as I can tell the stack, actually more specifically, the base valve itself, is the real difference performance-wise. I had set up a KDX with KX500 forks and I couldn't get the smooth off-road action I wanted no matter what I did with the valving shims. So, I stuck in a set of 04 YZ250F valves that I had (also re-shimmed), and immediately got rid of the harsh hits that were beating me up - so the KX forks were OK other than the stack ass'y. Basically, thats what race tech's gold valves do - allow more flow beyond the shimming end of it. Comparing the KX base valve to the YZ base valves, the YZ valves have larger porting and an additional lower port. The WRF base valves have even more flow - quite a bit more - I'm setting that up for my 220 for rock gardens. I have never taken apart the cartridges at the same time to compare the yamaha KYB's to the Kawi KYB's so I don't know if the internal valving is different there.
  13. SPUTTER

    old dirtbikes power vs new

    Going back further, I used to ride RM400's (79,80) and they put out about 36-38 HP - I still ride the same trails today and my good running KDX200 actually pulls some of the uphill trails better...it puts out about the same HP but with power valves has a longer flatter torque curve (and one more gear). The RM400's would tend to have to big a gap between the upper gears for some situations - if you couldn't keep it on the pipe you lose. After power valves were pretty much figured out by the manufacturers, I haven't seen much difference in 250 power other than that smoothing-out effect to get more torque over a longer rpm range. One of my favorite bikes, power-wise, was an 89 KX250 I had. Big mid-range with good off-bottom. I had no problems keeping up with anyone while I was still racing it in 2002. The 96 WR250 I have (YZ engine with wide ratio box) feels a lot like that old 89 KX.
  14. SPUTTER

    2000 kdx220 best usd fork option

    knurling is a machine shop method of expanding the metal - like the handle of some tools. I do my own, but any machine shop can press out the stems from both the "new" triples and the kdx triples, check the relative diameters, knurl the kdx stem if necessary, and then press the kdx stem into the "new" triples. The whole thing shouldn't cost more than about 50 bucks, I would think.
  15. SPUTTER

    2000 kdx220 best usd fork option

    The KX500 is the simplest, but the forks aren't the best - even if you carefully revalve the valve stack they are fairly rough off-road in most tough situations. The open-chambered yamaha forks (pre-2005) are easily tuned for off-road and depending on your weight/aggressiveness you can use different years to get the right spring set for you. I currently have 2 kdx's with yamaha usd's and each is tuned for different kinds of riding. My 200 uses 02 yz125 forks with the stock .41 forks for more aggressive riding, and my 220 uses 04 YZ250F forks with .39's for rough single track stuff. I think the yamaha forks are more easily tuned for off-road than the KX's as the yamaha compression stack base has more flow capability. The yamahas are an easy conversion. You will need to knurl the stock KDX stem a few thousanths to get a press fit in the yamaha triples (just like you would with most KX triples). The KDX caliper will work, but you will need the yamaha caliper mount bracket. The yamaha fork guards have plastic brake line guides which I use to clamp the brake line to with mini hose clamps. You will also need to widen the KDX stops by simply welding a wider bracket right on the top of the old kdx bracket. I recommend the 2001 and later forks as the triples move the handle bars about 1/2" further forward than the original kdx location, which makes the bike handle soooo much better. I use a yamaha wheel on one bike and a KX wheel on the other - if you use a KX wheel you'll need to custom make the spacers. Pre-2001 yamaha wheels use a smaller diameter brake rotor so they won't work as is.
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