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Everything posted by SPUTTER

  1. I need either type for the rear brake pads, sintered just doesn't work for me. Does TT or someone else carry them? (did search and couldn't find zip...)
  2. I found it. EBC makes a WRR carbon-type rear pad set.

    Suspension settings

    Hi, I'm a 60 year 165 lb old A level cross-country rider who has just finished the initial setup on my WR. Here's what I came up with to keep the front end from diving in rough sections or coming off jumps. Set sag slightly soft (more than 4 inches). Rear shock full rebound - it is under-valved for rebound. Fork compression nearly full or full. Fork rebound slightly softer than stock (less than 10 clicks). Works fairly well for fast trailwork now.

    why it so dam hard ta do whelies on the wrx

    Like was said before, suspension is key - if the back sags the front comes up much more easily.

    Bigger Gas Tanks for the WR250R/X

    that tank looks better than most aftermarket tanks IMO - looks to me like they did a good job designing it with off-road riding movement in mind.

    So who's the a-hole WR rider in Calgary?

    I ride on the pegs a lot...bad back, 'roids, etc.... lots of time on this old bod...I could give a crap what anyone thinks about what I look like on a bike - heh. I will say this about morons, as I am probably too often one myself; When you get on a bike, feel good, have normal hormone flow and need to get it on - well, sometimes I do things I wouldn't do in a car...I admit it. A moron yes, but a happy moron. Please don't hate me. At 61 I still can't help but pull a wheelie sometimes, or go hard through the gears. Sob, I just can't help it. I guess if I were totally dead inside I suppose I could ride a bike like I was driving an old Yugo --- but c'mon you straight arrows out there...I bet you deviate from that narrow road now and then, don't you? Now be honest!

    WR shock.

    I wonder how he charged it? Assembled it in nitrogen-filled compression chamber while wearing a deep diving suit? Hmmmm. Or mebbe just used a football inflator needle and charged it to 15 lbs? How how how?

    Install-fest--the farkling has begun.

    Problem is, people are tired of listening to corporate and political gas-bags, no matter how sharp they are purported to be. Our leadershit is now appropriately being judged by many on what they do, not what they say. Maybe the corporate jet story was a kind of striking metaphor for the big three's smooth leadership in action. I think so anyway. I watched the same thing happen in the early seventies, sat in the long waiting lines at gasoline stations, and personally patched up crappy factory workmanship while prepping new gas hogs at a chrysler dealership. Yeah, a lot has changed since then hasn't it? I feel sorry for the american worker - our leadership at nearly every level has failed us and corporate greed has warped our fiscal and environmental values. Oh well....what goes around....

    Highfive's 1st Dyno Test

    vernacular "who's on first?"

    Highfive's 1st Dyno Test

    I wonder if processor overclocking might increase the sampling rate of sensors (assuming system clocking and processor clocking are using the same triggering bus for such a design). Even so, digital sampling is usually optimizied by a standard algorithm (I forget the name) to adequately represent such things as sound and sight without the need for higher sampling rates, which may or may not apply to machine inputs for the relatively slower cycling (with like fluid pulses) gasoline engine.

    Highfive's 1st Dyno Test

    Heck yes, that extra friction is worth at least 2 HP!: but seriously, how a bike handles, brakes, and is suspended is far, far more important to me than a few horsepower. On the technical trails many of us love to ride, it is rare indeed that the full horsepower of any bike is used often or at all. Gear spacing, clutch action, all those things are what comes to mind when I ride. When I used to compete in cross-country racing, I often rode a KDX200 or 220 for technical courses, and had no problem passing most riders on bikes with twice the horsepower those little kawi's had. HP - eh....fun, yes, but not something that defines the value of a versatile motorcycle.

    Highfive's 1st Dyno Test

    I bet high-five hooked the wires up backwards to the obstatrobit, that'll do it every time.

    Highfive's 1st Dyno Test

    Yeah, most 450's are pretty gutless nowadays. One of the reasons I sold my even more gutless WR426 is that my 1967 Vespa scooter could outrun it. If it weren't for the small tires and lack of suspension, I would have used it for desert racing.

    Highfive's 1st Dyno Test

    I'd like to see a stock bike run on the same dyno. How much bang for the buck are those aftermarket parts good for?

    I'm considering buying WR250R, but...

    If you have your KX500 forks revalved for off-road, you'll find it much safer and fun to trail ride on. Stock, they are valved for motocross tracks, not rocky terrain.

    Shock exploded

    The part that is over my head is the initial release of the nitrogen and installing the schrader valve. -Blueshopsuper just disassembled slowly, releasing the gas likewise. Once you have the schrader valve installed, can you just bleed off the pressure and then disassemble the damper with hand tools? -Yes, for future tear-downs the shrader valve makes it easier to discharge before disassembly, and is absolutely necessary to recharge, assuming the dealer/suspension shop doesn't have the esoteric factory method of charging available. What kind of shop could (and would) do the initial discharge and install the valve? -A dealer with a good mechanic, a drill press or lathe, the correct size bit and the correct tap for the threads. You really don't need a lathe, a drill press will work, IMO, you want it to be properly aligned. Any special tools needed once that is done?- No. Where do I get nitrogen to recharge the bladder? How would I know when I have "enough"? -A dealer or suspension shop. You charge it to the correct pressure, like a tire.
  17. The biggest problem is the reservois location as Todd said - the F, and virtually all KYB off-road shocks, are located on the opposite side of that of the stock WRR shock. I think ohlins could easily set one up using a remote reservois like on 80's MX'rs and many street bikes. You'd just clamp the hose-connected reservois to wherever an available open frame location exists.
  18. One thing I forgot to mention was oil height in the forks. You can adjust the amount of travel and somewhat the final rate of travel by oil height. If the forks are diving too much, but the spring rate seems right otherwise, you can increase the oil volume. I recommend no more than about 1/4 inch increase at a time. The first thing I'm going to try on my WRR is increasing the oil height (I'm so frikkn lazy I've only washed the bike twice since I've had it, LOL). On another bike (a kdx220) I put '03 KX500 forks on recently, I revalved them, shortened them and then final tuned them by oil height. Too much oil and the forks are harsh over bumps, too little and they tend to dive and bottom too easily even with heavier springs. This site has a suspension forum that likely has other perspectives, so it would be good to reference that too.
  19. I've gotta chime in here...anyone who is hired to work on your suspension is not going to know what to do unless you tell them. If you ship it out, and it still needs changes, you've got to ship it again, and again...go local if you can. The KYB forks are easy to work on, damping-wise. Race tech used to sell a video that gives all the info you need and they sell shim kits too. All BS aside, I can reshim compression on a set of forks in less than 45 minutes; here's what I do. 1. Dont take them off the bike -too much time and work. 2. Drain gas tank. 3. Plug off tranny vent hose with a pair of vise grips (keep oil from spilling). 4. On WRR remove mirrors. 5. You are going to flip the bike upside down - so wrap up the handlebars with something to protect all the projectiing stuff. 6. Take off the seat (so it does't get messed up) 7. wrap the rear fender with something to protect it. 8. Flip the bike upside down, like you used to do with a bicycle when you worked on a tire. 9. Spin out the compression valve assembly with an impact wrench using the correct allen wrench. 10. Walk over to workbench with the assembly and modify as needed, in this case I'd add 3 or 4 shims to the compression stack as a start. The trickiest part is keeping track of the shims and removing and replacing the nut that holds the stack, it is peened to stay in place, so you need to file the peened aluminum threads before you remove it, then use locktite to reassemble. See if you can still get the race tech video...it makes it all very simple. 11. Reassemble using a hand wrench. About that rear shock...whoever you sent it to needs to be able to machine threads in the reservois cap and install a shrader valve, just like blueshopsuper did. That will cost you more money than otherwise. That and the need for nitrogen makes it less attractive for a do-it-yourselfer, but not insurmountable. If you do it yourself, check first to see if a shop will recharge it for you, some shops refuse to charge a shock someone else assembled. BTW, blueshopsuper just dove in and did it...way to go! Kudo's! Now he knows what to do when any changes are wanted - no middle-man who doesn't know your skill, riding style, or kind of terrain traversed. I'm thinking for most 160 lb and up riders the next step up fork spring rate wouldn't hurt either. I bet race tech and others have them in stock - check race tech's spring database it'll show what they have for WRF's which is the same fork, spring length-wise.

    Need to ask a suspension favor

    put the bike up on a stand to relieve the shock spring compression as much as possible. Once you loosen the lock ring, you can usually spin the inner ring by turning the whole spring with it. I use a long punch with one side ground flat.
  21. A 350 WRR tuned for more bottom and mid, with a nice run-out for highway stuff, would be perfect. Motorcycle valhalla.
  22. Tell me about it. I was pushing 50, racing my 20 year-old cross-country A rider nephew when I flew off a cliff and finally stopped falling when my mid-section slammed into a tree. Now over 10 years later the arthritis from that get-off is flat dictating my life style. Not a good thing. You're smarter than I was then, I think. oh, well, what are ya gonna do? We is what we is. duh. I probably shouldn't be riding at all now, but it's so much of what I am, I don't know what else to do.
  23. Most riding by my peers and I don't involve packing much gear and long hauls. A typical riding day would be two runs of several hours each - limited by the fuel range of the bikes. So, my view is a perspective based on that kind of use. Not all hills are nasty hills....I grew up, dirt-wise at a place called clear creek, you may know it from the national enduro that has been run there. It's about an hour and a half from where I live. At that time, the monster climbing hills and valleys were open to all comers...and open bikes were king. For example, a group of intermediate and expert riders I would ride with in the eighties would all be riding YZ490's, RM500's, CR500's etc, just to make the uphill trails that we traversed (and they'd still stink and ping from over-heating!) My cousin, an A enduro rider was the slowest of the bunch, mostly because his bike of choice was always a KTM 300exc, too puny to haul with the rest of us, LOL. No kidding. Believe me, if you were on anything under 40HP you would get MUCH more tired than the guy who could clear the uphill trails the first time.... Later we would all be on the big bore MX four strokes, the YZ's CR450F's, X's, etc. A WRR rider would have to take the long way around most of our riding trails. the bike would not be able to clear the initial vertical climbs out of creek beds that were the beginning of many trails. Not a put-down, just a fact. Here in california, we have several similar riding areas, where HP is still a big deal. My last big bore was an 02 WR426, and I loved that bike, even though I was in my later fifties at the time. It had a cush suspension, great torque, and super ergos. It was very easy to operate on fireroads and middling single track, heavy, but smooth...it took a different riding style. Scottmac, I ride the troll trails mostly, and that WR426 I would rate dead even with the WRR for ease of use on them. The WR426 had better suspension, more clearance, better power (grunt city) and was slighty lighter, but had a higher center of gravity, but with the lower cg the WRR is easier in every other way and much EASIER to start. Anyhoo, for where I ride now, the WRR is great for all but the most technical stuff where the main drawback is mostly it's weight. Again, I really like it and it continues to surprise - For those who might be interested, here's a picture of me riding an RM500 along a steep hillside at Clear Creek. Of course, this wonderful riding area is now closed.....bummer. http://home.earthlink.net/~yamagumby/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/clearside.jpg
  24. For trails with hillclimbs and such, where power is a necessary but fun evil, the WR450 is way better. The WRR is too gutless for rough mountainous challenging terrain - But as said by many here, for single track, flatland stuff with moderate hills it works pretty good. A great all around bike IMO, glad I own one. The WR450 is a sweet ride for those who are used to open bikes.
  25. Hermit, this is only the beginning. Soon you will forget the names of loved ones and begin returning to the wrong house. You will not even know what that blue gizmo with two wheels is doing on your property. The yamalink is clearly to you what a rubik's cube is to younger people. I admire your spunk though, and wish you well. About that missing axle; did you check the refrigerator?