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About jpfire

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  1. Yeah, its the OEM fender with the flashers that really stick out. The bike actually came with the XCW rear fender and the Sicass Smart Flasher and Stop light all in one but I put the original back on because of two reasons, Its illegal in the state of California and I really like the idea that cars and trucks can see me alot better on the street. Going to keep the other fender for the dirt only romps. Only takes a few minutes to switch out. JR thanks for the tips, the bike doesn't flame out and runs awesome. I still would like to know what "normal" temperatures are? I think I'll start a post just to see if anyone who runs a Trail Tech Voyager can report on what there temperatures are Idling and running to get some sort of base line. Plassm, sounds like a known issue if dealers are doing this. Maybe Flasher manufacturers should have there flashers made with a protective heat shield already ??? I would buy one. Cheers
  2. Got a question/concern and could use some advise. I was able to get a 2013 KTM 500 exc with only a few hours on it and with alot of extra goodies (awesome bike) but I recently went on a three hour ride in some fun single track (bike was getting hot) and found that the rear flasher and the side of my rear fender tool bag started melting to where it almost caught fire. I am wondering if in fact these 4-strokes really run this hot or what? I know the headers get real hot but out of the rear exhaust??? I just ordered a new flasher. The mods that came with the bike are the Euro mapping, desmogged, aftermarket pipe (he stated that it was a FMF Q4 but it only has a "Northbay Motorsports" sticker on it? so not sure) and all the guards. It also has a Voyager on it and it was showing that the temps were getting up into the 230* range. When idling today it reached 160* on its own. I took a look at the spark plug and it was Ok. good bronze color, not white. The bike was running well and the fan only came on two times, I could not see any boil over however I also checked the radiator fluid level and it was down about 4 oz. Question: Is there a good range for the temperature to be when just idling? I wouldn't think that it was running lean with all the mods done already. If it is lean, how do you fix this. My first bike with Fuel injection so pardon my ignorance. Going to put in Engine Ice tomorrow. Also heard of the Evans stuff but not sure I want to try it. Any advice would help. Thanks
  3. jpfire

    Beta 520RS or KTM 500 EXC?

    One reason some KTM dealers can be "hasty" with customer service when it comes to the 500 exc is because they are all but sold as soon as they come in. Tells me they have a hell of a product. A dealer here in Santa Cruz California said he has sold over 30 of them and at 11K OTD, thats a pretty penny. He is expecting 5 more this month but thats it. I really want one but 11K for a bike is crazy. As soon as you roll it off the showroom floor it depreciates over 1 to 2 K. Wish I could find a used one but haven't seen any for sale. Might just look into the Beta......! Cheers
  4. jpfire

    Pilot air jet question in a slant body fcr

    Thanks Noble and Craigo, I should have known that Eddie would have it correct from the get go.....the carb does have the tube so its good to know that the #60 is OK. Going to button it all back later today and will hopefully report with a "woohoo" factor. Cheers JP
  5. Hi fellow thumpers, I have been away for awhile but happily back again. My '07 DRZ400s just got some lovin by installing an older slant bodied Keihin fcr39 I got from Eddie last year. (I know, been sitting in a box for way too long...divorce issues along with the fan switch and extra power mod! Well, long story longer, I got it all in ( if anyone says its not a X@#%$& to cram it in, there nuts) or course, nothing a little liquid confidence couldn't fix .... The bike felt way more powerful and a nice increase in throttle response to boot however, it wasn't perfect ( slight bog and would die suddenly) so..... To my question (and yes, I searched for two days now) the carb came with a #60 Pilot air jet ( the one next to the #200 main air jet) and I have been reading that it should be a #100. Would having a #60 in there greatly effect response? Since I have it out, I want to make sure to put it together in the best configuration. The rest of the Carb has : EMN needle 3rd clip 160 main 45 pilot 65 starter jet 200 main air jet 2 turns out (fuel screw) Also need to ask about the tube that comes from the black box on the right side of the bike next to the carb. With the old boot it went into a port on the top but eddie sent me the other boot and it does not have a port. What do i do with this hose? Thanks again I can't wait to feel the difference with the new carb set up! Cheers
  6. jpfire

    MRD noise review

    Ok Bryce, Thanks for the quick response. Going to bite the bullet and order one up. Unfortunately here in California, the quiet insert will have to remain, but I am all for the stealth mode anyways, just have to have a bit more power. Also doesn't hurt that it looks 100% better than stock and will shave a couple of pounds. Cheers JP
  7. jpfire

    MRD noise review

    BMA75, I see in your photo that you have the heat shield on your pipe. Did you get the full MRD exhaust and if so did it come with the ability to change the stock heat shield over? (screw holes) Thanks
  8. jpfire

    New member looking at buying a DRZ

    Welcome to TT, don't forget to look at the stickies on top of this forum for a whole lot of reading. Grab a beer or two and peruse. Also remember to use the search button for alot of questions and answers. Might want to grab another beer !! Enjoy I have the same bike and love it. Lots you can do but relatively stock, its still a fun toy to play on. Cheers
  9. Klinquist, (Kris) I just ordered a rotopax for my DRZ. Will fit nicely on my rear rack but was curious how you secured it to your bike. Do you have their fancy lock or just strap it down? Thanks JP
  10. jpfire

    Carb help...

    First and formost, if the bike was sitting for over a year then really make sure that the carb is thouroghly cleaned out. Not just cleaned but actually using a wire in the ports to make sure they are free and open. (being careful not to damage it) Then blow air through them. Sometimes it behooves one to replace all the jets as well. I have seen carbs that were green inside from the old gas. Then and only then should you tackle the next steps that are being advised. You may have already done this but just throwing out my 2 cents. Cheers
  11. Kris, just curious if you rode the freeways to get there or trailer in. If riding the freeway, what size gearing do you have. The Rotopax is nice, is that the one gallon size and did you get it at Orlandi trailers? Cheers
  12. jpfire

    is this the right FCR? Pic

    Hey Eddie, looks like whitsdurz has first dibs but if he doesn't go for it I would be glad to take it off your hands. I have a 2007 DRZ400s and is only a carb and aftermarket pipe away from making a bigger smile on my face. I think the carb should be first though. PM me if its a go. I am in sunny San Jose California. Cheers JP
  13. jpfire

    How many miles with Acerbis 3.3gal tank?

    All that about fuel...and I also carry a 25' strap (also from REI that is used for rappelling) that I use in case someone needs to be towed out. And of course Murphy's law holds true....the time when I forget to pack it is the time we need it, when I have it it is rarely used!!
  14. Please, please leave Dave alone.......he is working on my suspension as we speak (write) and I want to go riding real bad....lots of mud on the ground! I will let you know when he is available again (when mines done) and of course a complete report on how the "new" suspension feels. Cheers JP
  15. Well, I am cleaning up the bike,('05 WR450) pretty much stripped down, going to grease it all up....pulled off the carb to clean it up, remembered that going from a stock #50 leak jet to a #40 will possibly help with the bog issue........well when I went to remove the leak jet from the bottom of the carb it stripped beyond the ability to get it out. (pretty soft metal) Advise needed. Can I drill the whole thing out then possibly run one of those new Quickshot 3 that has the "dial up leak jetting" ? Or will I destroy it beyond repair and need to find another carb bottom or (please no) have to get a whole new carb? Any advise would be appreciated. PS. Did a search but found nothing....maybe I'm the first goob to do this?