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About Jakobi

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  1. Didn't take a pic. Fork back together. One spring OEM. The other aftermarket. Both within a mm difference of eachother. 4-5mm preload on the springs assembled.
  2. I aim for around 4.7Nm clean threads, blue Loctite. It works out very similar to what feels snug and a tad more using a 10mm ring end with a delicate touch.
  3. Just adding to that. These are the plastic spring guides on the 12-15 YZF range of bikes.
  4. As the topic says, has anyone experienced wear occurring beneath the spring guide on their KYB SSS forks? I pulled mine down for a service recently and both sides have been polished (one slightly more than the other) on one side of the cartridge where the spring guide/perch sits. Both slide up and down the cart easily, but neither feel sloppy or excessive in play however they have been rubbing in a specific area of both carts. Concerned about the long term implications. Is it normal? and any suggested fixes?
  5. Jakobi

    TM EN 250 2013 KYB Fork Help

    I think you're under sprung mate! I'm 75kgs and using a set of KYB on a 250cc 2T (installed on a Gas Gas). .46kg/mm fork springs with 3mm preload were too firm for my liking, but .45kg/mm is right on the money, and I prefer technical singles etc. You may not like as firm as .45kg/mm but I would imagine that most of your issues with riding too low in the stroke are spring related. Spring for support, and then valve for control.
  6. That's how I interpreted it. Without the bleed holes the clicker needs to be opened further to compensate.
  7. Jakobi

    Best 4CS re-valve at home

    You've just spent 7 pages explaining to us the inherent flaws of the WP components (across every model they make) and how more than just stacks are required to make them work, yet you ask for a shim stack to make them work? It's this high level of logic which results in the comments you receive. Much of what you have said above could be picked apart and your lack of knowledge highlighted, but my time is worth more to me than it is to continue down this same old path. Good luck with it mate!
  8. Jakobi

    Best 4CS re-valve at home

    No intent to insult mate. Lets go through the data though. Many people have noted issues with the 4CS Many tuners have worked extensively on improving them. Some people feel that certain tuners can make them perform at an acceptable level. Others feel that other options are more cost effective and result in a better setup. I assume you were aware of this before buying your bike, so building off that. You have determined that you didn't like them stock. You have been through them 10 times and are unable to make them work - confirmed by others commenting how poorly your setup is. You don't want to blindly invest in after market parts to potentially find that a particular tuners setup doesn't work for you. You don't want to invest in a KYB conversion (carts or complete fork setup). You don't have as significant issues with your mates Yamaha setups. So you really have to bite the bullet one way or another.. Sell the pumpkin and buy a bike better suited to you. Save some coins and take the gamble with the 4CS. Save some coins and bolt a set of KYBs onto your front end. Or continue down your current path of trying to make your setup work through your own development, trial and error. The ball is in your court as to what you decide to do. I'm sure that is the purpose of this thread, and with that you have been given much advice.. but your history also shows you to be quite particular in your expectations and you can probably gain quite a bit by not having them set so high and focusing more on your skillset and fitness (as we all can). No offence meant.
  9. Jakobi

    Best 4CS re-valve at home

    Many tuners are finding good results converting them to OC. Logically, it doesn't make sense and I can understand why Tye doesn't want to go that path. Yet, if the results speak for themselves then who is to argue? Reading the whole thread, there is a conflict of interest tye. I'm going to say something that will probably stir the nest a bit, but it's something that you've been told before as well. You have a history of buying bikes, modifying suspension, chasing a benchmark that you know you want, and have not been able to hit due to WP hardware. You knew this prior to buying a ktm. You're expectations aren't unrealistic in that one should be able to buy a 'premium race ready bike' and not have to entirely rework the forks to make them ridable, but's documented that with these particular forks you will need to do that. That is the compromise you make. If you value the engine and perceived build quality, the colour, or the brandname itself then that is fine, but you make a purchase knowing you'll be faced with suspension setup challenges. Or you go the other way and buy a bike in another colour and invest less into a suspension solution that better meets 'your needs' out of the box. Regardless, when someone is sensitive to suspension it will always be a challenge. It will always take an investment in time and dollars to best match that bike to the rider, and even then with the very best it will still have a scope of (weight, terrain, pace, etc) in which it works best. COMPROMISE is the key. Rather than justify things over and over to yourself, about your age, your weight, your skill level, the track.. what colour the sky is.. let a suspension tuner set the bike up for what works for the majority of their clientele and then invest time into learning to ride it. Don't focus on what the suspension is doing.. focus on yourself, your line selection, your body position, your throttle and clutch control. Learn to put the bike where it needs to be and rely less on the suspension to make a rough track into a magic carpet. If smooth riding is your thing, you're riding the wrong sport.
  10. Jakobi

    Best 4CS re-valve at home

    Your threads and posts never cease to disappoint tye! However, I feel you post them as a means to get your thoughts off your own mind (and justify them to yourself), than they are to seek any opinion or advice from others. As such, your often faced with sarcastic responses, and also overlook much useful advice. I'd suggest reading others posts a couple times (at various times) and really taking on what has been said.
  11. Jakobi

    2016 YZ250X Stock Fork Shim Stacks

    Thanks for the stacks. Did you note if there were any bleed holes in the mid piston?
  12. Sorry Marty, Double checked and they are from a 12 YZ250F. No bleed stack (11-0.25*3).
  13. Bumping this just because she's a beaut thread! Do have something to offer re setup on 2013 YZ250F forks on a 2013 EC250R, but need to check notes and get back onto it. Next change was going to be replace a 17.3 backer in the mid with a 15.3 as per numroes theory and evaluate. At this stage just running a single bleed in the midvalve as well (stock). How many have gone with the 2nd/3rd bleeds and how did you feel this impacted the mid? I'm still using 3 x faceshims where most here have dropped back to 2. Float at .25mm
  14. Very interesting info numroe, and I have to agree with you. The last set I pulled down from a YZ125 you could clearly see where the bottom 17.3 had been contacting the cup washer. Obviously we know it makes contact, but the witness marks did indicate that the shim had been making contact with some force and you would assume it would result in some flexing. My mid is (from memory) 20.11 (3) 18.11 16.11 11.3 (2) 14.2 17.3 (2) for a total float of .26mm I find the bike feels good most the time, but fast bike speed + short sharp impact (imbedded rock) can cause some harshness and I think it may be as you are saying, that the mid just can't flow fast enough. It's not blowing through the stroke on these. I may try switching the 14.2 to 11.1 (2) at the next service without any other changes and evaluate the effect. In terms of rebound, I am also running similar to numroe. Less face shims, cross over, and then clamp on a larger shim. I think I could run an 11mm clamp as I find my clicker sits anywhere from 15-17 clicks open at the moment. I also feel too much float/too soft on LS comp begins to feel busy, mushy, and rides down in the stroke a bit much. Pretty good in the slow trail trash but begins to get scary at speeds.