danketchpel

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About danketchpel

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  1. Thanks for sharing that! That's a very interesting option. 2017 Beta 500 RR-S 2013 Husky TR 650
  2. Please report back on your findings, mo feedback mo beta. One would think a bladder would be more responsive than a piston but .... ??? Does anybody know what the Fox shock uses for comparison?
  3. This is the LED flasher relay I ordered. It may very well be the same unit sold under a different name. Regardless, it works perfectly for the Sicass Racing LED turnsignals on my bike. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J4Z7PP4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 For reference here's pix of the Sicass blinkers on my bike. I bought these for a KTM locally and changed the connectors.
  4. Thanks, bookmarked it. Maybe I'm over reacting but dang... I never seen a cable get beat up like that and survive for very long.
  5. Very interesting. It's worth the $40 to have the interface tool to make things easy. It would be very good to know what the stock setting is spec'd at. Can you elaborate on the BST software and the "hot map"? I also think my Beta runs a bit too rich at idle and just above. I think it would run better about 5% leaner at idle and just off idle.
  6. I think the billet brake clevis will be my next upgrade. I agree, the stock one is way sloppy. I'd also suggest removing the brake lever tip and grinding the backside down at an angle. I replaced the hex bolts with button head so if the lever is hit it hopefully will not puncture the clutch cover. I found my bike had a lot of grease in the bearings. But.... I'd suggest going over the wiring and inspect/zip-tie the more critical molex style connectors. If you ride in the wet a lot silicon electric grease is a good idea. Pay attention to the connectors up at the main panel behind the headlight mask, it's kinda a mess there and quite often they aren't solidly connected, especially the one for the speedo wire. Keep me posted if you guys decide to hookup for a ride!
  7. I machined a plate and welded it on. The stock pool cue is just down right silly.
  8. Any changes or bone stock? I have removed the upper plastic clip and I forget if there was down a bit from that also. I think the only clip(s) I have now are down below the lower triple clamp. As I've zip-tied the wire to the harness before it goes to the block panel connector I haven't had the bad connection/fluttering problem Johnny mentioned. I agree those connectors are marginal at best in this application.
  9. As I look at the wire for the speedo wire when I'm riding I think it's going to break sooner than later from the abuse it takes when the forks travel up and down. With the stiff outer housing it seems like all the flex happens right near the end of the thicker housing and the short section of wire that feeds to the connector panel. I've zip-tied the wire just back from the panel connector to act as a strain relief but I think it's going to give up working pretty soon given how much strain and movement it gets. I haven't encountered this problem on a bike before as they either had a old school mechanical cable that flexed in the middle or the speedo pickup was on the rear wheel. I'd like feedback on what you guys have experienced and if there's a better routing or ???
  10. Can anybody comment on this? Sachs 50mm Shock: Shock settings come with a custom tailored set-up, based upon rider information. The OEM Sachs reservoir piston is replaced with a factory Beta USA black anodized bladder conversion kit. Our bladder kit will reduce the operating shock temperature, and improve the feel over square edge bumps. Components are reassembled using low friction assembly lubes and quality Motul shock fluid, to help minimize stiction and friction. I'm primarily thinking about the bladder upgrade with the motivation being more compliant. I have noticed my rear dampening changes a bit with shock temperature. When it's cold it's kinda harsh, when it warms up it's more supple. I'm guessing it has to do with piston/bore fit as the materials change temp, or it's fluid viscosity changes. But, I wouldn't want to down grade in terms of reliability. I'm looking for comments from those who've done the upgrade or similar. I read Chris' comments between his KTM with a bladder and Beta w/o. Too much of this thread was just ...... xxxx so I blew through most of it. I didn't want to start another thread just to post the question.
  11. I put in the steel gears on my '17 at the first oil change. I hate the plastic gears, ugh.
  12. Mferring1, I'd agree with your approach on TDC when checking. On most bikes I just get it close to TDC or when you can see the bottom of the lobe on the follower/bucket. I haven't done mine on the Beta yet. I had read that loosening or removing a top motor mount helps also. I'll find out when I do mine..... My KLR was like that, you had to finangle the cam cover around and eventually it came out, what a pain. They could have given you a bit more clearance and it'd be 90% easier.
  13. The wear on the front fender flap looks the same as mine. Somebody at Beta needs to change the design on that. I put ARC unbreakable folding levers on my Beta. They are the same length as stock though as I don't want it any shorter.
  14. Roon, is there a torque curve from that run? I'd love to see that. It is impressive how smooth the HP curve is, that's not too common. 2017 Beta 500 RR-S 2013 Husky TR 650
  15. This almost sounds like a ground wire problem. If the starter is buzzing and not turning over the engine the connections are carrying the current load. A bad ground circuit would produce both problems. 2017 Beta 500 RR-S 2013 Husky TR 650