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About danketchpel

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  1. Yes, Kommifornia only gets worse and worse every year and it's not just the DMV, seems like any facet of Gov't. I can't believe what the dodo birds in Sacramento are doing to this State. They are actively promoting people and businesses to leave as soon as possible, while they refill the state with illegal refugees. Don't even get me started on the gun laws......, ugh. I can't wait until Moonbeam's term is up for GOOD. The the real problem is the whacked out legislature who seems to legislate with their head in the clouds and feet off the ground.
  2. I ended up going with a Cush drive rear sprocket. I'm quite happy with it and you really can notice the difference in smoothness on hardpack dirt or pavement.
  3. I've got the Xtrig preload adjuster, it friggen rocks. I hate adjusting threaded rings with a passion and if you're tossing on luggage, spare fuel, a day pack with tools etc. it's so much easier to just give a few turns with a wrench. I used a 8mm socket on a 1/4" extension with a sliding T-handle. That way I can pack it easily and adjust on the ride if need be.
  4. That's pretty interesting for an extended ADV type ride. I might look into that. I've done some longer freeway rides on my 500 and while it's ok it's certainly no where near as comfy as my TR650 for extended freeway miles. It just wears you out faster. I think the rider is the limiting factor in this case. My personal feeling is that I'd want to keep my pure freeway sections at a sustained 65-70 max and 50 miles or so non-stop. The bike will easily do more though. I run 15/50 gearing which seems like a near perfect compromise. It's not bad on the freeway and still works well for all but the nastiest off-road. I run a cush drive rear sprocket. I think if I were to do an extended ADV type ride I would go to different tires more suited to that type of riding. It would depend a lot on the route.
  5. I agree that I'm more concerned with Beta having a really good quality dealership network and a well sorted supply chain than them becoming "mainstream" per se. I think they can up their game when it comes to wiring but otherwise I think the bikes are pretty dang solid overall. And I'm not a penny pincher when it comes to price. If that better wiring bumps the price a $200 or so do it, I'd rather pay the factory to use higher quality connectors etc. than me installing them. But I think Beta overall has a good lineup of bikes. I'd love to see them get into the 650 light ADV class, something that competes with the 690/701 bikes but is more ADV compatible with a larger fuel tank that doesn't have a filler cap that gets covered with your luggage. I'm hoping to see Beta offer FI, SOLID dead reliable oil injection, and counterbalancing on the 2T bikes. Right now I'd probably buy a KTM 300 just to get FI and that all important counterbalancer. But I'd much rather buy a Beta 300RR or REALLY a 300 2T RR-S (in my dreams) with the upgrades. But back to the question posed, I'd rather seem them work on QUALITY dealerships and excellent parts supply over banging out more bikes right now. I think more media exposure will help with public awareness. A lot of people tell me "I've never heard of Beta....."
  6. I tried running Mobil 1 multi-vehicle full synthetic ATF but I've decided it's too thin and am going back to 10-40w trans oils. The ATF seems better for reducing clutch drag and it shifted very nice but I wasn't happy about the swarf I was finding on the drain plug. I put the Motul trans expert back in for now. I'd like to try the Amsoil synthetic bike trans oil. Honestly upgrading to the 2018 clutch and shift mechanism is the real solution. Beta knew there was a problem and fixed it properly.
  7. Thanks for the very detailed write up. I will probably do this upgrade at some point. I'm glad you pointed out the bolts. That's kinda funky they don't include longer bolts.
  8. For reference, I went from 17 yrs on a DRZ400-S to my '17 500 RR-S and haven't missed the DRZ one bit. The Beta is everything I wanted the DRZ to be. So far the Beta bikes have been pretty much bullet proof with the one caveat, either change the plastic oil pump gears every 100 hrs (per the manual) or upgrade to the steel oil pump gears (what I did). After that very few have reported failures. If you give the electrical connectors a decent going over you should be good to go for quite some time. The manual states service intervals of 30 hrs. Most guys are changing the oils (yup separate engine/trans = good thing, 750ml each chamber so 1.5L total) earlier just cuz. I've been doing ~20 hrs so far and watching how things go. Check the valves around 30-50 hrs and after that you can let them go easily 2x that as they don't seem to move much. Many of us have found the intakes a bit on the tight side with the exhaust spot on at the initial check. Beta uses a huge fuel filter (same as a Audi A4) which is a very good thing as that's been the biggest problem KTM has faced with it's FI bikes, too small of a fuel filter which clogs early. They are higher performance than the previous gen Asian bikes so they operate under a high stress load but you control most of that with your right hand. The current 4T bikes haven't been around that long so you won't see too many with tons of miles yet, at least here in the States. You'd probably find more in Europe where they have been selling a lot more for a lot longer. It's not a new company at all, it was established in 1904 building bicycles, they started building motorcycles in the 1940s.
  9. That is strange, I thought they were going to be Li also. Maybe it's some funky DOT thing??? We almost don't even see 4T RR models here in CA cuz all the dealers know everybody wants the RR-S cuz of Kommifornia's lame policies on plating bikes.
  10. It seems like it used to be the case where batteries would give some sign of starting to fail but I must say, in the past 10 yrs or so it seems like more and more they will just up and die very quickly even when maintained/used on a daily basis. I've had this happen on car/truck batteries and bike batteries. It seems like the newer batteries tend to create an open cell much easier than the older ones so they just give up. I suspect something has changed in how they are constructed internally. This just happened to my buddy last weekend on our ride. He's got a '16 Beta 500 and the battery (Motobat OEM) was working perfectly for most of the ride, spinning the engine over quickly. We got to a spot for our mid way stop and when he went to restart just nothing, dead flat zero voltage showing on the Yoyager input. We checked all the connections/fuses, fine. We swapped the battery from my '17 Beta 500 (also a Motobat OEM) and bam, it starts right up. We pulled the wires off the battery and the bike kept running off the generator so obviously the charging system was working OK. While it was running we plugged his battery back in and ran it for a bit to see if it would take a charge, nope, still totally lights out. I'm 99% sure it developed an open cell, probably from vibration. I noticed he didn't have the O-ring strap holding the battery down, it probably rotted off. I noticed my O-ring strap is all cracked and it's not even a year old, yikes. I need to replace it with a better quality O-ring. So I did have a jump pack with me but I found that it's very hard to get the alligator clips to make a decent contact on those very small terminals. The first couple times I tried I got nothing which is why we swapped batteries. I eventually pulled some of the insulation away exposing more of the terminal and I was able to get a good enough contact to start the bike from the jump pack. So a few things learned; 1. I'll never ride without my jump pack again. 2. I'm going to see about some less bulky alligator clips that can get into tighter spaces or connect to smaller terminals better. 3. Check your battery hold down strap and replace as needed, certainly consider an upgrade from the factory POS. 4. I think the jump pack is 100x better than the kickstarter on these bikes. I have tried to kick start mine and even after 50 hrs of run time I can't get it to spin faster enough to start. I've owned quite a few thumpers and NONE were as hard to kickstart as this Beta. The old school thumpers were much easier to kick start, even my BSA 441 was easier. For reference, here's the jump pack I've got. It's not bad, 400A peak, 200A of starting power and only $25 shipped. It's also pretty compact and light. We started his bike several times off it for the remainder of the ride and it still showed a full charge.
  11. So far I've ended up changing oils around 20 hrs. I don't see the need for shorter and may spread it out a tad if need be for longer rides. I've been running the Motul spec'd engine oil and testing different trans oils. Currently I'm running Mobil 1 multi-vehicle full synthetic ATF in the trans. Shifting and clutch action is definitely better than with the Motul Trans expert. I might try some Amsoil Dirt Bike Trans oil but it's a pain to buy (online only) and I'm not sure about the SAE 80 weight for the draggy Beta clutch.
  12. Yup, I just went from sea level in CA to riding at 6-9k ft elevation in UT and the bike started at 40 deg in the morning no problem and ran excellent the whole time. There was a guy on the ride with a DRZ running a FCR carb who was having problems with his floats sticking and flooding the engine. With the current crap gas in CA is a real pain to keep a carb working properly, FI zero effort. The fuel filter is a key element in the FI system and far too many are too small. Cars have large ones and have zero issues. When the bike companies figure this out all will be well. Beta got it right on that account.
  13. That's what works best for me.
  14. I get between 38 - 42 depending on conditions. I see 40 pretty regularly on 15/50 gearing.
  15. I think this is a key reason why the 2018 Models have an updated clutch design, cuz yup, they drag even with the mods I've done it still drags some. I'm 90% sure it's primarily due to the pressure plate not being stable and also flexing. You can see on the new clutch they use a lot more springs and the pressure plate has ribs etc to keep it from flexing or distorting. If the parts aren't stupid expensive I might consider upgrading if it will retrofit to the 2017 bike.