• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

281 Excellent

1 Follower

About danketchpel

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
  1. So far I've ended up changing oils around 20 hrs. I don't see the need for shorter and may spread it out a tad if need be for longer rides. I've been running the Motul spec'd engine oil and testing different trans oils. Currently I'm running Mobil 1 multi-vehicle full synthetic ATF in the trans. Shifting and clutch action is definitely better than with the Motul Trans expert. I might try some Amsoil Dirt Bike Trans oil but it's a pain to buy (online only) and I'm not sure about the SAE 80 weight for the draggy Beta clutch.
  2. Yup, I just went from sea level in CA to riding at 6-9k ft elevation in UT and the bike started at 40 deg in the morning no problem and ran excellent the whole time. There was a guy on the ride with a DRZ running a FCR carb who was having problems with his floats sticking and flooding the engine. With the current crap gas in CA is a real pain to keep a carb working properly, FI zero effort. The fuel filter is a key element in the FI system and far too many are too small. Cars have large ones and have zero issues. When the bike companies figure this out all will be well. Beta got it right on that account.
  3. That's what works best for me.
  4. I get between 38 - 42 depending on conditions. I see 40 pretty regularly on 15/50 gearing.
  5. I think this is a key reason why the 2018 Models have an updated clutch design, cuz yup, they drag even with the mods I've done it still drags some. I'm 90% sure it's primarily due to the pressure plate not being stable and also flexing. You can see on the new clutch they use a lot more springs and the pressure plate has ribs etc to keep it from flexing or distorting. If the parts aren't stupid expensive I might consider upgrading if it will retrofit to the 2017 bike.
  6. I must say I'm pretty happy with my 500 RR-S on the pavement up to about 70, but it's comfort zone cruising speed is about 65 with the 15/50 gearing I'm currently running. Much over 70 and the wind blast gets tiresome anyway. It seems for a lot of the riding I end up doing out here some sections of pavement become inevitable one way or another. I bought the bike for it's dual sport capability and I've been 100% pleased with how it works once I got things sorted out. So far this is where I'm at with "functional" mods that affect how it works for Dual Sport use; Removed rim locks and had both wheels machine balanced, runs very smooth now at speed. I'm currently running D606 tires F & R but will be changing when the rear is gone. I'm still undecided for the next set. I've tried different gearing and I found 15/50 near ideal "all a round" gearing with a cush drive rear sprocket Seat Concepts standard height wide nose, it's more comfy than the SC low seat and overall ergos are better. IMS 4 gal tank. Highway Dirt Bikes hand guards w/mirrors. Scotts under bar steering stablizer to calm things down at freeway speeds. G2 throttle with the 650X cam. Heat Demon heated grips. Nomadic tail rack with Wolfman Peak tail bag. Wolfman Enduro tank bag. Motominded Squadron Pro headlight with dimmer. Sicass Racing LED turn signals F & R. RAM GPS mount for my Garmin 60cx with hard wired power. The other stuff I've done is protection related, cleaning stuff up, etc. Here's a photo of the bike how it looks currently.
  7. Great review as usual. I'm wondering if the new clutch and gear shift mechanism will fit my 2017. It looks like the new clutch has more springs which should really help with pressure plate flex and stability. Question is, how much for a whole clutch assembly??? I will eventually replace my Motobatt AGM with a Shorai LiFe battery so I'll achieve some of that weight loss. But the kick starter stays on.
  8. I have the Hyde side plate also. It's a very good plate but I'd agree their drilling template/fixture is off. My holes didn't line up either (very similar to your's) and I had to "massage" the holes with a Dremel tool to get it mounted. I also have a billet clutch cover from XRC that has additional material in the lower quadrant.
  9. Do you have the stock tank? I would check the connection under the tank first, next the connection to the LED dash light. I'm guessing one of them might be loose. I have disconnected my low fuel light as it's no where near accurate for my 4 gal tank anyway.
  10. The ramp profile changes the rate of throttle shaft rotation vs twist grip rotation, meaning it's not a linear reaction. As the ramp gets steeper the throttle shaft opens quicker as you twist the grip. This is the mechanical means to achieve what companies are now doing with electronic fly-by-wire mapping. Think of it as adding a sport mode, a quicker response. As a very good example, the rain map on our bikes slows down the response by altering the ignition and fuel curves to soften the power in the lower rpm/throttle openings. But if a bike has a true fly-by-wire setup, ie the twist grip is connected by a wire to a stepper motor on the throttle shaft (like my 2016 Bonneville) then they can also alter the progression/rate of throttle opening to twist grip rotation, slowing it down for a rain mode, or speeding it up for a sport mode. The result of the ramp from a rider's perspective is as you grab a handful of throttle you get a quicker acceleration than you would with a more linear cam. It feels kinda like "boost" kicking in on a turbo engine if that makes sense. The beauty of the ramp approach is more control down low and more hit later when you want it.
  11. I might try out the Amsoil Dirt Bike Trans oil. I haven't tried that one yet. Usually I have to order the Amsoil stuff so it's hard to just try it out. I do run the Amsoil 4T synthetic marine oil in my Honda PWCs, but I order it by the case as I have 2 of them to fill, 4 qts each. I also make up my own #0 marine grease by blending their marine gear oil with the #2 marine grease in a ratio to get a #0 grease for use in the jetpumps. I think the Amsoil products are good quality, I just wish they were easier to buy.
  12. I received the new 650X throttle cam plate from G2 last week. I was able to install it this weekend and get in a brief ride in the local area including a bit of off-road in the hills. I had previously been running the G2 700X cam plate which was sold as the "Throttle Tamer" for the fuel injected bikes as they use a different throttle housing than the carb'd 4T bikes. In reality I felt, as others have also, that this was a bit too tame. It worked well in lower throttle settings but was very slow to progress in opening making the bike feel pretty lazy. I spoke with G2 and they have just released a new 650X profile cam plate which is somewhat 1/2 way between the 700X and stock, but with a more aggressive profile than either when it comes to rate of throttle opening vs grip angle. I have attached a series of photos that attempt to show the difference in profiles between all three, the original 700X, the new 650X, and the stock throttle tube. You can see the much steeper ramp profile of the 650X. The stock profile is somewhat linear but very fast acting overall from start to finish. After my ride today I'd say the new 650X cam is MUCH better than the 700X cam, and I feel better than stock also. It allows for a slower initial response so it's more controllable way down low, say from idle to 1/8 throttle, then it starts to ramp up a bit more through 1/4 throttle than ramps much quicker from say 1/3 to 3/4 and really comes on strong. So where the 700X left the engine feeling kinda lazy this 650X cam really wakes it back up with I think an even more aggressive ramp up than the stock throttle tube. It's perfect for when you want that burst of power with a quick twist but still want it more controllable way down low for the technical stuff and to keep the unintended throttle openings in the rocky stuff at a minimum. I will ride the bike with this cam for awhile to get a better feel for it in wider range of conditions and report back as I can. I will be taking it to Utah for a 2 day ride there next weekend. If anything my very first thought is I "might" take a closer look at the ramp profile between about 1/8 and 1/4 opening and possibly smooth that out just a bit more with some careful jeweler's file work. But I'm going to give it a pretty lengthy test the way it is first. I think just switching on the rain map might do what I want without touching the cam plate. I did try out the rain map with it briefly and think it may do the trick and leave the slightly quicker response for more open conditions which might be the best of both worlds. Another thing I'll comment on. The cable slack at full closed ended up about identical with the 700X cam. I kinda wish there was a bit more slack so there was a better range of cable adjustment available. I'm still pretty much completely in on both ends of the cable adjustment and while it's "OK", there's no really extra if needed. But the throttle shaft now goes 100% open before the tube hits the stop in the throttle housing so that's a definite improvement. With the 700X cam the throttle shaft was about 10 degrees short of full WOT when the throttle grip tube hit the stop in the housing. This was with the cable adjusted to minimum safe slack. Hopefully this series of photos shows how much different the cam profiles are between the 3.
  13. I'm currently using the Mobil 1 multi-vehicle full synthetic ATF in the trans and find it to be a big improvement over the Motul trans expert oil. I found quite a few very positive reports of running this oil in bike transmissions. The synthetic version has very good shear strength and heat resistance. I like Motul oil in general and am running the 7100 in the engine. I've run their oils in a few bikes and like the 2-stroke oils quite a bit.
  14. My 500 came with the fan stock. I was just thinking if the WP upgrade helped a bit more it might be worth it. Both to upgrade to a metal impeller and to increase coolant circulation at lower rpm / slower speeds. I don't see it making too much difference at higher rpm / faster speeds.
  15. I have used standard Lead Acid Battery Tenders on Shorai batteries. But here's the deal, while they will work the charge curve is different and the float voltage is lower than the LiFe batteries prefer (~13.8v vs 14.4v). I never leave my chargers on, only let them come up to full charge and remove them. I have since purchased the Battery Tender LiFe specific charger which has the corrected charge curve and higher float voltage for LiFe and have been using that on 4 Shorai batteries I've had. I have noticed the difference in charge with the higher float voltage using the Battery Tender LiFe charger. I currently have 3 bikes with Shorai batteries and overall I'm quite pleased with the performance and ability to hold a charge for longer periods. I will agree if the temps drop below about 40 deg or so the initial crank performance goes down until the battery can warm up by discharging. Above 40 deg and they crank awesome. I like the more linear discharge rate as the cranking speed doesn't drop off like a lead acid battery. There's no comparison when it comes to weight, CCA, and zero acid spill, leak, etc. problems. I will probably replace the MotoBatt in my Beta with a Shorai when the time comes. I haven't searched yet to see which Shorai fits the Beta.