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About lowercasee

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    TT Titanium Member

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    Riding, metal, horror, old school video games, food, beer, etc.
  1. lowercasee

    Dr650se or Drz400s?

    Sorry for the delay in response. I don't get on these boards as much as I don't have a thumper anymore. Anyway, from what I recall, the high comp piston added a nice bump in power all over, most notably in the low-mid range. Top end didn't seem a lot different, but I already had the FCR39MX which helped that area as much as it could. Maintenance interval wise, I don't remember there being any difference from stock. I think the valve clearances were slightly different than stock, though.
  2. lowercasee

    Dr650se or Drz400s?

    Of all my past bikes, the DR650SE (followed closely by my KTM 690SMC) is the one that I still wish I had. So much fun on the road and so easy to maintain. It had the FCR-MX carb, full exhaust with GSXR 1000 muffler, high comp piston and Web 223 cam. Definitely a hooligan machine but still plenty comfortable for commuting, 2 up, and just about anything else. Even on the highway at 70, it happily plodded along and got around 40mpg doing it. Great bike.
  3. lowercasee

    to buy or not to buy

    I have had both a DR650 and DRZ400 (KLX). The DR and KLX have about the same amount of power, assuming both are in stock trim. The 650 makes its power lower in the RPM range where as the 400 is happier in the mid-upper RPM range. The DR is also heavier than KLX so take that for what it's worth. Being that that you're a sport bike rider and you thought the KLX was lacking, the 650 is definitely not going to do much to impress you. The power for either bike can be significantly bumped up depending on how much you want to spend but even then, you're not going to be anywhere near sport bike territory. If you're looking for something to commute on, zip around back roads, and do occasional light trail work on, the DR is great.
  4. lowercasee

    Dr or Drz

    Another recommendation for the DR. The DRZ will certainly handle it without issue, but it's not as comfortable to ride on the road as the DR.
  5. lowercasee

    Newbie question

    A second or 2 is way too long of a response time, even for the stock CV carb. I would pull the carb and make sure that all the passages and jets are clean. Adding a Dynojet kit while you're in there would help with response and power too. A pumper carb like the dirt model and/or a full exhaust is certainly nice too, but then you get into more money.
  6. lowercasee

    Is this a good deal for a 2002 650?

    I agree with William, I wouldn't go much higher than $2000. It's a 13 year old bike with a fair amount of mods which don't necessarily add any value for most buyers. I sold my 2001 DRZ400S which was in great condition with similar mods and barely got over $2000 for it.
  7. lowercasee

    DR650 2001 big deal!

    Wow, that's a killer deal! Congratulations! Hope you enjoy the bike. I miss mine.
  8. lowercasee

    1989 DR100 - New to me.

    A friend of mine had one back in the early 90s, I think it was an 86 or 87. He beat the living crap out of that thing and it just kept going and going. As for mods, outside of your mentioned air box mod, jetting, and a more free flowing muffler, that's probably about it. The valve clearances should be listed somewhere on a sticker on the frame if you can't find them online. They are the screw type adjusters. You might also try contacting Jesse at Kientech, he has a lot of collective DR knowledge and may have some suggestions.
  9. I have owned a DRZ400S and DR650SE and my vote goes to the DR as well. It's much more at home on the road than the DRZ.
  10. lowercasee

    Thinking of buying one of these

    Nice bike. I had a GSXR750 and the motor was incredible. Depending on how "detuned" that one is, it could be a good street bike. Personally, though, I would look at the FZ07 or FZ09 if you're looking for a naked street bike.
  11. lowercasee

    Buying Fcr 39mm is O-ring mod still necessary?

    I wouldn't say that it's absolutely necessary, but it will help with the off idle bog that you may experience. The cost of the o-ring is next to nothing and it only takes a few seconds to install. Worth doing just for peace of mind.
  12. lowercasee

    DR200SE, new to me

    Check out Kientech.com too, Jesse has a few mods for the DR200SE.
  13. lowercasee

    Any good 60% Dirt / 40% street tires to recomend?

    The Shinko 244s are great, though I felt they were a little more street biased than dirt. I only did a few hundred miles on them before selling the bike though and only 1 dry offroad excursion. Check out the Michelin T63s too. I ran through a set before the 244s and they were great off and on road. They are very similar to the D606 but less expensive. The only time I was nervous with them was in extremely muddy / rocky / root filled terrain, but I would nervous with any tire in that situation. They hold the road surprisingly well too, even at pretty good lean angles, never once stepped out on me.
  14. lowercasee

    Yamaha FZ-09 vs. Suzuki DRZ400SM

    LOL! I guess I should try pushing it a little harder, maybe take it to the track and really get a good feel for it. I want to do a full Yoshi exhaust but funds are limited, especially with the house purchase coming in the next few weeks. Can't wait to get back on the bike though!
  15. lowercasee

    Yamaha FZ-09 vs. Suzuki DRZ400SM

    Great to see another FZ1 fan. I love my Gen II and I don't plan on getting rid of it anytime soon. I agree that the stock suspension is not the greatest but I have found it sufficient for most riding and even pushing it a bit. I just don't know that I would go at a knee dragging pace with it. Can't wait to get my ECU flashed to really let her rip!