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  1. brainwashed

    DR350SE transplant questions

    Wow this looks amazing. Great work so far! Does the powder coating affect the cooling of the air cooled top end? I'd be worried the powder coating would act as a thermal insulator. The frame acts as an oil reservoir and also as an oil cooler. With the tank out of the air flow coupled with the painted cooling fins I'd be concerned about oil temps getting high, especially if you are in a warmer environment. I know there are third party oil temp gauges available and it might be a good idea to consider one. I know Greg Bender's site thisoldtractor.com has the shop manual for the DR350 posted. It might has the oil routing diagrams you are looking for. Here is a link: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/dr350_workshop_manuals___shop_manuals___service_manuals.html Good luck with the project!
  2. brainwashed

    '98 DR350SE won't start, help :)

    Are you sure this is a '98 350S? The 1998 DR350S did not come with a kick starter from the factory. If it has one it was added afterwards by the owner. The 1998 also has an automatic decompression so there will not be a decompression lever on the handle bars. I just want to make sure we are talking about a '98 350S. It sounds to me as though your pilot jet is plugged, or the carb is a severe mess. Laying the bike on it's side would have shaken up any sediment or debris in the carb and more than likely got clogged. I would start with a carb rebuild myself. I find it hard to imagine that the the starting fluid make it into the engine if it has spark and you saw it run before you bought it. Take small steps first. The valves didn't suddenly get out of whack laying the bike on it's side. Get the new battery and starter installed. Take it slow. Get a good trickle charger on the battery and then troubleshoot the starting. I'd bet you a beer that with a carb rebuild (at least a good clean out, an estarter and a new battery the bike will try to run. You found a good year for the 350S with desirable estart, improved suspension and the auto decompression head. It's worth spending the time on to not complicate the issues. This is a good bike to invest time into. Good luck and keep us posted.
  3. brainwashed

    1990 DR350S

    My 1999 DR350 has Kientech's airbox, pumper carb and exhaust. It's a fun bike the way it is, but my buddies stocker was fun as well. It was just mellower.
  4. You didn't mention if you are shopping new or used. I would strongly suggest buying a clean used bike over a new one. This way you can sell the bike for close to what you bought it for while you are learning what bike suits you best. Your super tall, but I would still steer you towards a CRF230F or similar older model with an air cooled "old school" long stroke 4 cycle motor. These motors are bullet proof and will last decades if you keep oil in them. Keep in mind It's much easier to make a bike fit a taller person than it is for a tall person to get used to the maintenance and power delivery of a higher performance bike. There are simple and affordable ways to get any bike to fir you such as tall seats from Guts or Seat Concepts ($100), higher bend handle bars such as the high CR bend from Rocky Mountain ATV or others ($30) or lower mounted and wider foot pegs from JNS or IMS ($120). Google "David Knight" that dude is huge and his size is a huge competitive advantage for him. All of that said, I have never met a beginner who wished the bike they were learning on was taller, heavier or larger in any dimension. Ever. When you learning you want to be able to step off the bike and allow it to roll away with out you on it, deal with the tall seat and bars later once you are confident and comfortable with handling the bike. Keep in mind that there are decades of older bikes available that fit the same mold as the current CRF-F models and TTR's depending on your budget and how willing you are to get online and learn how to work on and potentially refurbish and older bike with new plastic, tires, drive train and control cables. Examples: Suzuki DR series, also now called DRZ - I'd suggest the DR250, or the seemingly easier to find DR350. I own a couple DR350S dual sports and think they are one of the best all around motorcycles ever made. In fact if you get a 350 you can get a throttle stop or cam type throttle tube easily and cheaply installed to limit the power available and let you grow with the bike over time but that can be said for any more powerful bike. A DR250 is actually a DR350 with a smaller piston installed and a higher revving CDI. They share the same frame and suspension. Honda XR and now the CRF-F series. The older XR250R is a great all around bike. Yamaha XT, nowreplaced by the TTR models Kawasaki KDX series. For more than a decade the KDX200 and 220 were one of the best tight single track bikes available and have legendary handling. With any used motorcycle, you need to learn what to look out for when shopping. I would rather buy a used well taken care of 20 year old motorcycle than a newer neglected bike. Have fun and enjoy the experience and take all of our "expertise" here, including mine, with a big grain of salt. IMO Shopping for a motorcycle is one of the best things in life, make sure you enjoy it and don't stress over it.
  5. brainwashed

    1990 DR350S

    I have a couple of late 90’s DR350S’s. With a pumper carb, opening the air box and free breathing exhaust (this doesn’t mean it needs to be loud however) you can expect a snappier throttle response. It’s not “more power”. It’s a more crisp throttle response. Dont expect to pull third gear wheelies suddenly. The mods simply makes the bike feel more awake and like it’s wanting to go. Keep the old carb. The pumper carbs don’t last as long and a friend I know actually prefers a well jetted stock carb over the pumper as he feels the pumper is more finicky. I don’t know if I agree as I have more experience with pumper carbs than vacuum type carbs, but he is not the only guy I’ve talked to who prefers a stock quiet well sorted bike.
  6. brainwashed

    DR350S Shifting and clutch issues

    I lubed the cable well with PJ1 cable lube before installing. I'm certain it's well routed as it acts strange with with out the bars being turned but will look over it all. It must be the clutch arm or something with the clutch itself. I've read that if you don't replace the thrust washer you can get inconsistent operation of the clutch but I've never seen it first hand so don't know what I would be seeing with that.
  7. brainwashed

    DR350S Shifting and clutch issues

    I have a weird problem with a new to me DR350. For the record the previous owner told me he paid a shop to install a new clutch and clean the carb before he listed it for sale. The first ride on the bike the shifting was very "tight" and hard to find neutral. As a first step in troubleshooting I’ve installed a new Tusk brand clutch cable to try to address a tight sifting problem where I couldn’t get it into neutral. Now the bike is acting like the clutch cable is too tight with out enough free play, and then a few minutes later like it’s too loose and won't disengage the clutch so I can't stop with out the bike stalling. I’ve never seen any thing like it. Currently all slack is pulled from the cable and I can't get the clutch to disengage and maximum lever pull. I'm thinking the clutch arm that the cable attaches to at the bike needs to be moved back on it's splines to allow more clutch pull but that it a complete guess. It’s almost like the cable routing it getting tighter and looser at different times. I’ve never seen anything like it and not sure how to troubleshoot the problem. Any ideas on what to do besides just start replacing clutch parts?
  8. brainwashed


    With in the last month or so, I bought two DR350's for my son and I to dual sport together on. I agree that they are a great bike. FYI with stock gearing they will cruise on the highway at 65 with out struggling or over revving. You can run lower, more trail oriented gearing and still cruise at 55 comfortably. I know these bikes go for many miles, so I can't speak to the miles so much. The high mileage could be a positive because for myself I would rather own a well maintained bike with alot of miles racked up than a bike that sat neglected for a decade. That said after looking for a few months, being patient and being wiling to drive several hours to pick up the bike I found a 98 and a 99 with 6,000 and 10,000 miles on them. I spent $1,600 and $2,200 on them respectively. Check out the DR350 thread on ADVRider. There are tons of posts spanning the last ten years or more. Good luck! https://advrider.com/index.php?threads/dr350-thread.230695/page-2836#post-35598300
  9. Hello everyone, I did some searches and found many old threads but none of them had photos. I'm also wondering if there is a newer choice out there that might be available. I am the proud new owner of two DR350's that we picked up a few weeks ago. One of the bikes was laid down on a gravel road at speed and I'm in the process of replacing the plastics on it and cleaning up it's wiring in the process. I was thinking of ordering a Maier rear MX style fender for the bike but don't know if the Acerbis dual sport tail light that is on it will mount onto the fender cleanly. Does anyone know of a good tail light choice for the Maier fender if the Acerbis light doesn't mount well? Is there a good LED tail light available that would fit nicely? The bike now has the Suzuki rear rack that is on the '98 in this picture. Pic to show the bikes on our first ride. The bike getting the TLC is the '99 with the sexy Guts seat. (It's ok to admit your jealous of the flames.) It's left side touched down at some point in a previous life and needs some TLC. Note the exposed wiring on the tail. The tail light needs to be rewired and doesn't light up properly. Thanks for any assistance!
  10. brainwashed

    Value of a 1982 YZ250J?

    I'll try to get some pics from him. I forgot to mention that it is a special "Wrangler Edition" model. Apparently it has a set of special plastic and seat to make it a limited edition.
  11. brainwashed

    Value of a 1982 YZ250J?

    I'm asking for a buddy and hope this is the right place to ask. He has an old 1982 YZ250J that is clean and was running well before being parked in the garage for 15 years. He was thinking of listing it on Craigslist. He said it won't currently start, but has spark. I imagine the carb needs gone through. What should be be asking for the bike? He has the title and the bike is original and clean and trail ridden. Thanks for any guidance here.
  12. brainwashed

    07 yz250F cant keep up! Upgrades?

    keep in mind your comparing an MX tuned bike to a detuned trail bike in what sounds to be a drag race. That said, a big bore kit and Hot Cams might make your bike pull the way you want. I'm in the process of installing a big bore kit in 2007 WR250F that I picked up from Race Rabbit. If it's not enough I will add hot cams as well down the road.
  13. thanks looks like Fastheads is a good way to go.
  14. Title pretty much says it all. I'm in the middle of a DIY home project and don't have the time to learn how to do it myself right now. Does anyone have a reputable shop to send the head to? Thanks for any advice.
  15. We put a new clutch into my son's 2007 WR250F over last weekend and I noticed quite a bit of aluminum "slurry" in the clutch and oil filter. We buttoned the bike up and put fresh oil and filter in it and I told him to go put around for short time and then we would change the oil again. He didnt listen and was horsing around wheeling the bike left and right and heard what he described as a "pop and a ticking sound" and the bike stopped running. The bike has compression when it's kicked over. Does anyone have suggestions on where to start to look into what's going on? We are new to this bike and have only owned it a month or so. I had not been able to check the valves in it yet. Thanks for any info. Duane