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    • Bryan Bosch

      JUST IN!   04/24/2018



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About roleyrev

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

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  • Location
    New Zealand
  • Interests
    Dirt Riding

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  1. No, my crush washer days are behind me now. I use copper flat washers these days. Yup same.. I buy in bags of ten or twenty at a time 14mm, 12mm and 8mm (I have a harem - well two and a third (the third if you count the moped) of bikes to look after)
  2. For the 2017SM sold in this part of the world Renthal 605-01 CR Highbars are very close to stock, the stock part has number 605-53832 (Renthal) which is the CR Highbar but slightly smaller in the width 775mm for the stock 800mm for the standard. Colour is Titainum. Also check out:
  3. What brand is the throttle body (Keihein?) Check out eBay and see if there is one that fits. I went to my local EFI shop and they helped out with the TPS and MAP sensor plugs when I did my EFI conversion on the DRZ. Worst is you visit a wrecker with part in hand and ask if the have a loom that has one on (and willing to cut it off). Some solder and heat shrink should see you right. Cheers
  4. I'm with ohiodrz400sm, Stage 2 Hotcams wake the bike up a heap. One of the best modifications I have done.
  5. Man, every time I see this bike it makes me want to go a buy an old E to mod to something like this. Love that tank.
  6. The case print has pockets designed to take M6 X 25mm or M6 x 30mm bolts, these fit in from the front and are held captive once installed so the nut can be tightened. All other fasteners I used are from the old back cover. There is also a small spacer included (of which you will need two of) to space the button board off the back of the case. They are doughnut shaped and sit under the screw.
  7. Yeah - that's its final resting place. I have a way of using the stock speedo with an aftermarket pickup and single magnet too if your interested.
  8. Hi, Yes it's just the back though. Usually the back breaks when you have an off that impacts the speedo. I think it has to do with how strong the metal bracket is versus the plastic on the back of the speedo. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2853739
  9. That can be checked too. If your keen. Remove the screws that hold the back of the speedo on and then remove the back (four screws in the corners). The innards come out with the backRemove the two screws from the back that hold the innards to the back then flip over and remove the two screws from the front of the button board. Be aware that there is a contact that is also held by one of these two screws that will come loose as well.From here you can take the main speedo off the back and you will be looking at the mechanical part of the speedo.you can see here the optical wheel that generates pulses as it turns. Check for obstructions in the windows of the pulse wheel and / or water or evidence of water. It's worth noting also the sub board plugs in via three wires. The RED wire is +5volts, the Black is GND and the white wire is the one that carries the pulses to the speedo unit (If you short the black to the white a few times with the speedo powered up you'll get a reading).
  10. I really like rides like that. No I in team the saying goes. An experience shared is an experience gained. I think back to days when there were three or four in the team an no man left behind. Mostly we were on lighter bikes XR250's but the team effort was rewarding. Well done
  11. Hi, It's a bummer you get ripped off by the dealer for the little things. In all honesty if you are not doing out and out hard off road riding the SM disk will be fine - even an advantage adventure riding. I have put over 2000Kms on mine with the big front rotor and been to all sorts of places without issue I really would not go to the bother to change unless you are really doing some tuff stuff. I have found that the SM rear shock is quite a bit more damped than I'd like. I back the low speed rebound off by two clicks. I don't do whoops or jumping so have not found any issues with the front, I believe they are a bit soft to do jumps ETC. Go with what you feel to be good (i.e. without the low speed rebound backed off I suffer from grip issues with the knobbly). I do know that rider weight plays a part in how the bike handles. For reference I weigh in at 78Kg and have the static sage set perfectly on the standard spring. I really like your blue rims good colour choice.
  12. How about using a 4 way fuse distro block like: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Fuse-Holder-Box-4-Way-Car-VEHICLE-CIRCUIT-AUTOMOTIVE-BLADE-BLOCK-FUSE/382184131342?hash=item58fbf30b0e:g:MM0AAOSw3ydV0bbv Its a bit safer with having your goodies fused and has spade connectors for easy wiring.
  13. Grab a E speedo drive your local Suzuki parts department. I has the right ratio to drive the standard speedo with the 21 inch front and not too costly either. I change between E after market rims and SM rims all the time. I have the same back sprocket on both so geared a little higher on the 18 inch rear. I have never bothered with changing the rotor and / or caliber mount on the front and have never found the front brake to be an issue. I ride some single track but mostly do adventure riding. As I mentioned above I have a E speedo drive on the 21 in front and the SM speedo drive on the 17 - this makes swapping out a 15 min exercise. I put up with the SM short side stand.
  14. Yeah, just been through this process with the DRZ. I added some stage 2 Hotcams between dyno runs to see the difference and to tune for them. It certainly helps with the hard to get places in the tune
  15. Hi, It sounds like charging troubles to me. Your battery should float around the 12 - 13 volt mark when not being used or charged, i.e. with the key off. You should see the voltage bump up with the bike running 13.8 - 14.2 would be some good figures, this indicates that the battery is being charged. From here checkout the link in the post above to test the charging system.