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roleyrev

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About roleyrev

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New Zealand
  • Interests
    Dirt Riding

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  1. My bike is a 2017SM. I got a set of aftermarket 21/18 wheels and swap out on a regular basis. It takes about 20mins to swap wheels. I have a big brake rotor on the dirt 21inch - its one less thing to change. It depends on who I'm riding with and the time of year as to weather I'd have the dirt set on or the road set. I ride soft roads and some easy single trail on the DRZ. I have a dedicated off road machine for the really tough enduro stuff. The DRZ is good with respect to being road legal and I tend to ride to get to trials and tracks now verses the enduro that I have to trailer. I can't particularly comment on geometry of the suspension but would suggest that unless you are a crazy or really good rider you probably wouldn't have any issues with an S with 17's on the pavement.
  2. Hi Nathan - 30mm is close, I get 28.92mm measured I hope this helps
  3. A safari tank by the looks, Id get in touch with safari and see if they can help - they may not be able to under warranty but I'd ask about a fix or discount replacement. I have had only positive experiences with a failed petcock. https://www.safaritanks.com.au/home/
  4. In case you wanted one that fits the location, has a baffle system to separate oil from air (i.e. no foam) and can be fitted with the exhaust in place check out https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2933433
  5. If its any help or use here are some printable axel sliders free for download. I drew then based on the ones that came on the SM. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2798869
  6. Why would you when Lithium Ion batteries are so light.....
  7. Yup that pretty much covers the must do's. Maybe check out other gearing - I use my SM as a duel sport with a 21/18 wheelset and prefer a 41 tooth rear. I, like you, travel a little to get to the soft road / off road riding and find the 41 to make the bike more relaxed at the 80 - 100 kph mark. I also find a bash plate well worth investing in, although I'm not too off-road with the bike I still find that having protection well worth the investment. Enjoy your ride!
  8. Ok, I've been thinking about this all afternoon. I looked back on a few logs on the fuel injection to see what I could find. With a 38mm throttle body I pull vacuum from about 7500 RPM wards at WOT. Now all thing being equal the 39mm and the 41mm pumper carbs should present less restriction than the 38 mm throttle that I have, due to the slide operation removing all the obstruction from the airway when fully open (This makes a case for me fitting a larger throttle body). I'd still be interested to measure vacuum across various points in the intake. I was thinking that you might need a high speed logger due to the pulsing nature of a singe four stroke but even with a standard log form my ECU I can see vacuum. Atmosphere was 103 kpa and I achieved 99 kpa at 7500 RPM wide open throttle (This gets worse with more revs, i.e. more vacuum and more difference between what's in the manifold vs atmosphere). The same does not occur at a lower RPMs. The throttle full open at 5500 rpm yields atmosphere pressure. Arguably the smaller throttle promotes better cylinder filling at low RPMs and more useable torque at these rpms. However it would be interesting to see if you do have any room for improvement in the intake tract. FYI My SM the Hot cams, injection and Yoshi RS 2 makes a solid 44HP, I must get the dyno results from Phill and post. Thinking about it this also speaks volumes about the LTZ400 quad that has injection - probably limited by the smaller 36mm throttle body. Most of what I have done with the fuel injection is to prepare to weaponize the DRZ with mods similar to what has been done here. As an aside I have figured a way of making a trigger wheel from a water cutter and suitable piece of pipe. Anyway sorry for the digression down the vacuum rabbit hole.
  9. Have you some access to vacuum measurement (maybe on the dyno?) It would be interesting to see if you are pulling vacuum in the airbox at high RPMS, this may signal the restriction. Also the same could be done further up the intake tract using the vacuum takeoff positions up on the head v's the airbox (to see what effect if any the carb has). It would be good to plot against RPM's and power to see the gist of things. For the sake of testing run without the filter in? While this may muck up the AFR on a carbed bike it may also provide insight to intake issues. Its a little hard to read the AFR number on the graph, I was just looking for a reference to see what your AFR is at the top of the RPM Range.
  10. Found a new riding buddy and did around the bays on Banks Peninsula
  11. That little teal one right over the other end look like it means business - with a roll cage -  it looks like its sitting a bit squatter too. 
  12. Quite a collection - what part of the country was that taken?
  13. Super cool, you don't see to many of these around any more (especially two door ones). I suspect like this one that ones that are left a well looked after. Bummer you had to sell.
  14. Yeah - now shame we cant get some made with the 18-1 trigger ring for injection (that's the hardest part I think). Note the question mark next to skim the flywheel for lightening.
  15. My thoughts, Remove the stator, Leave the reluctor sensor (CDI Pickup) Remove the electric start. remove the voltage regulator. Fit an 18 tooth -1 tooth to the flywheel (replaces the CDI trigger ring), maybe skim the fly to lighten? Fit a "light as" lithium ion 12 volt battery. Fit a 48mm throttle body (Keihin with 400cc injector, MAP sensor and TPS EX KTM 525). Remove CDI and replace with Coil on plug EX Nissan S15 pulsar and MicroSquirt ECU - to drive fuel and spark. You now a fully programmable fuel and spark system that runs total loss (very much like most race bikes). You will need to keep the LiOn battery charging between races. I can give you the base map for the ECU that works with a DRZ motor.