Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About roleyrev

  • Rank
    TT Silver Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    New Zealand
  • Interests
    Dirt Riding

Recent Profile Visitors

2,723 profile views
  1. roleyrev

    FMF exhaust issues

    Improve throttle response and make the bike more "stompy" through the midrange. Well worth the effort considering you now have the carb off for a re-jet. ^^ if your carb is a Mikuni fitted to a DRZ400s /sm then it is most likely a BSR36 unless it has been changed.
  2. 12 O'clock labs makes a small device that you hook power and your indicator signal to that makes your indicators into running lights (as well as indicators). It can be found here: http://shop.12oclocklabs.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=70
  3. roleyrev

    Vortex aluminum airbox

    No. I could easily feel the gain in the low to mid-range power when I switched intakes. Interesting. I was out with a friend at a classic flat track meet in the weekend - most bikes were 1970's period TT500's or XT500's with the odd XR twin shock thrown in for good measure. Almost all of the bikes had the same type of intake as yours - a velocity tube and filter - most were running no air box just a mud guard around the bottom of the filter pod. It sounds like you are onto something.
  4. roleyrev

    Brand New KLX450 advice

    Some good looking bikes. I had a ride on a CR, it was like mountain bike with a motor LOL. The KLX300 is a bit of a legend. I've got a DRZ400 SM that is a bit blingy. I have made it go ok by fitting fuel injection and some stage 2 hotcams. It's not quite as grunty as the KLX450r but getting there. The KLX450r is a bit of secret and underrated. I think only available in New Zealand and Australia now. ^^ @ozglenn has had lots of experience with the KLX450r and his needle selections are probably spot on.
  5. roleyrev

    Brand New KLX450 advice

    Yup I hear you - I use a KouberLink KLXR3 and have dropped the forks a little. It makes for a much better ride for me. Wicked in the tight stuff - slightly better turn in and can actually get my foot down when needed (usually when going slow) and not just bailing off. The link was an easy fit. I got it though the local dealer here. I dropped the folks to maintain geometry. Before anybody comments - I ride hard all day long and have not had any bottoming out with the link. If there are any negatives they are strongly outweighed by the positives for a short ass like me - basically its made the bike a keeper. The raised folks and I have also fitted some bar raisers (the curse of stumpy short arms) This is the exhaust tip that I was speaking about. Opens the bike up and works a treat with the correct jetting: And I know how I ride - so guards for everything (you can see in the top picture the rear brake cylinder guard) - below the Force bash-plate and radiator guards: Ordered direct from Force in Aussie
  6. roleyrev

    Brand New KLX450 advice

    Air injection = air introduced into the exhaust after the engine to improve emissions. Not in our part of the world. The bigger / opened exhaust will make a huge improvement with the addition of the correct jetting. I used Norjo motors her in Christchurch. I sure if you gave them a call and purchased the jets through them they would be forthcoming with the correct jet info for an uncorked exhaust. : 121 Main South Road Sockburn, Christchurch 03-3483493 sales@norjo.co.nz I Didn't pay too much attention to what jets were fitted I just know they work, and I wont be mucking with it any time soon.
  7. Meh - fuel under pressure then released by the regulator seems to make bubbles in the return line. Nothing to worry about. I have a fuel injected DRZ 400SM and the fuel system does the same. The pressure in the line to the injector works just fine and shows constant pressure as measured when running by the in line sensor. Your all good just seeing what most don't.
  8. roleyrev

    Brand New KLX450 advice

    I lucked in with a local dealer - Here in Christchurch, The dealer knew how to re-jet and supplied a new main - and pilot jet as well as an upgraded exhaust tip that fits the OEM muffler (1 and 1/4 inch I think) the jets were about $30 total the new tip $130 (NZ). The bike runs much better subsequently with less flame outs at low rpms (great for forest riding). I haven't bothered with the header pipe, I have my header bolts lubed up with some sliver anti-seize and just remove one - loosen the other and swing the header out of the way. Mines a 2015 - brought in 2016 - with 1k discount. Between discount and trade in the total cost on the new bike was $3500 (NZ). So far 90 Hours, oil changes every 10 or so hours. I did have an extra spacer in the clutch stack from new that caused slippage - but the dealer rectified quickly when it was found. A lowering link - I'm a 78kg short ass and the clickers one harder than they shipped on the front and as they shipped on the back and its sweet. The best bike that have ever owned. I did get he valve clearances checked at about 10 hours - but only for reference, so I know what clearances to look for when checked next. I'm not power hungry, I was in the market for a new 250 but came across the 450 green machine and couldn't pass it up - more power than I'll ever need even with the standard exhaust. I love the bike - its a keeper and about 10k$ less than the orange equivalent. I think often overlooked and a really good trail / enduro bike. Force out of Aussie make great radiator guards and bash plates - quite cost effective. They can be found here: https://forceaccessories.com.au/product-category/kawasaki-category/klx/450-klx/2007-2012-klx450/ I have both fitted and B&B off-road rear disk guard and rear master cylinder guard: https://bboffroad.com.au/shop-by-bike/kawasaki-products?modd=614 I hope this helps
  9. roleyrev

    Lower Chain Roller destroyed...Run it without?

    38 bottom, 34 Top
  10. roleyrev

    Lower Chain Roller destroyed...Run it without?

    Check out All Balls. I just replaced mine - the bottom was squeaky and the top is just a bush type from factory. All Balls Part numbers 79-5001 and 79-5002
  11. roleyrev

    FCR 39mm carb question

    You got to remember he's in Aussie so more like 1000 US for 1400 Aussie dollars.
  12. roleyrev

    FCR 39mm carb question

    HI all, 1400 Aussie dollars is the 1000 dollar mark US and about $1550 NZ dollars. I know the pain of stumping that much cash upfront I also know that we in this part of the world get stuck with horrendous freight costs. I would go FCR all the way. I have had bikes with (2x DRZ400E models) and a have a current bike that has an FCR. I couldn't bare knowing that the carb I had on my bike could be improved upon. I think its worth buying new - you know what you are getting is not all slogged out and worn and worth following a known route for jetting. The only caveat that I have around this is would I would be keeping the bike long term. A good suggestion is to contact the TT store and see what can be done on getting the complete kit. Also check out other freight options. I have a mail address in the states set up by New Zealand post for this such situation. To help you spend a little more - after the FCR, some Stage 2 Hotcams would be the cheery on the top.
  13. roleyrev

    Drz 400 motor questions

    You could spend a long time waiting to get to 9500rpm on a standard S/SM motor, especially in gear and riding. 8000rpm is bad enough with some stage 2 Hotcams and they are an improvement over standard s/sm cams .
  14. roleyrev

    i question the 3x3 cutout

    It's not lost on me the similarities between EFI and the FCR pumper carb. Yes I think that the more data you have the better you can tune your bike. I don't think my fuel table values will be of much use as they are just a percentage of the fuel at WOT to make combustion of 14.7:1 i.e. just a bunch of numbers. I think that you would have a great running bike using AFR's 14.0:1 for light engine loads to 12.5:1 for heavy engine loads. You might like to look into using MegaLog viewer (it's free in its basic form) to analyse your data from the logger. If you can save the data off as CSV or similar you can import it into MegaLog Viewer and do some graphing as I have in the previous post. This would certainly help with the correlation of engine speed, load and AFR (including your map sensor would help identify light engine load). It also has the abilty with the type of data we are talking to generate a table of engine load v's speed v's AFR as such: Were mine says fuelload you can use TPS or MAP or a calculation that incorporates both like: where TPS is less than 50% use MAP else use TPS. This would give good resolution at both ends of the scale.
  15. roleyrev

    i question the 3x3 cutout

    Your 100% correct. Load on the engine is the measure by which tuning is measured. The fuel value of a given load is what you are trying to tune. Also as you rightly pointed out the throttle position can be used as an indicator for load so it would be good to log the throttle position as well. There is a fuel injection schema that uses the throttle position as the engine load input - its called Alpha - N. There are some drawbacks with this as the TPS can be a poor estimator of airflow. A better indicator on an engine like this is Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) - the fuel injection schema for this is called Speed density - this is by far the most common way of measuring the engine load (in the fuel injection world). So by logging either the TPS or the MAP (along with the exhaust O2 and engine RPM) you can gain a picture of the engine load v's fueling. Observations with carburetted engines is that it is quite hard - near impossible - to get perfect fueling across the entire engine load range, you hint at this with your comment "There is so much overlap between the different circuits however that the position is not an absolute of what to tune.... we won't get into that right now..." . Observations on the DRZ engine - it doesn't like 14.7:1 fueling - it likes richer. As you may know I have a fuel injected DRZ400. I have deployed a blended injection schema called ITB (Independent Throttle Body). It takes and uses the TPS signal where there is little vacuum to work on and uses the MAP where there is good vacuum to work on the best of both worlds you might say. It also allows the ECU to work out the engine cycle via vacuum to perform sequential injection. The best part of all of this is the ability to log everything. On a typical tuning run I log engine temperature, engine PRM, the TPS value, AFR wideband, change in TPS (called TPSdot - useful for see accelerator pump effects and timing), fuel load - aka engine load and Fuel pressure. As can bee seen below on the screen grab. From this I can identify any problem areas and make changes to the fueling table as required. One of the many advantages of running EFI.