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About haydenjsle

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    4-wheeling, motorcycles

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  1. haydenjsle

    Possible Carb switch

    I swapped the Mikuni VM on my 97 WR250 (with 94 YZ engine) 2 stroke for a PWK "Air Striker" from a 2000 CR250--big difference in power from bottom to top. I used the entire setup from the CR--throttle / cable / carb--it's was easier than trying to adapt my cable to the new carb. This is the only year Honda used this carb. Look for the Air Striker model--this provides better low-mid air speed flow.
  2. haydenjsle

    08 yz85 bought for my 13 year old

    VForce reeds seem to have a slight edge and bigger following over the Boyesen--at least for the YZ85. They'll definitely give it more bottom-mid power. My son races a little of everything on his YZ85--MX /SX /Arenacross / Harescrambles / Enduro / and tight, technical mtn. single track. If your looking for more bottom--mid power here's my suggestions : 1. Cylinder base mod (Eric Gorr) 2. Compression compensation/ increase (RB Designs or Eric Gorr) 3. KX85 3.5 Slide and NAPE needle 4. VForce reeds 5. Advance timing 6. RB Designs carb mods (Never did this to a YZ85, but it made big difference in low-mid power on my 250. I'm anxious to try it on the YZ85 this summer.) Definitely lower the gearing too--this will give him a little more pull out of the corners--it's slightly high in stock form for most situations. As his riding level increases, then look into engine porting and an aftermarket pipe for more mid-top power. We've run stock / milled bases / and ported cylinders--each has different power characteristics suited for different riding conditions.
  3. haydenjsle

    YZ85 like at a rev limiter soon as powerband hits

    Check / inspect your silencer....it sounds like it may be obstructed or partially plugged---not unheard of especially on 2 strokes. I read a post not too long ago with a similar problem...even after a new top end, reeds, etc.-----this turned out to be the problem. I imagine a severely clogged air filter might cause a similar symptom---i would check and clean to help rule out. It sounds like an airflow issue--intake or exhaust.
  4. haydenjsle

    2-stroke Yamaha trail bike

    X 2 on what Bricktop said. I have a 97 WR250 (last year for the US 2 stroke WR) and a 2000 KDX 200 for my daughter. We ride mostly tight, technical mtn. trails. While the lower gearing is similar, the KDX engine is much more tame and flat (similar to an IT) and has a more plush suspension. The KDX has the advantage in the extreme tight stuff where the WR is more universal with a much bigger WOW factor in the open areas. The KDX does have more aftermarket and performance mods support. Stay away from the KDX 220--unless the factory piston has been replaced as these were prone to cracking IIRC. Both are extremely reliable, bulletproof type bikes. There is also the Suziki RMX and KTM EXC to consider--both 2 strokes also. I'd recommend the 94-97 WR250 or KDX200/220.
  5. haydenjsle

    pwk help please

    The 2000 CR250 came factory with the PWK Air Striker...try using the stock triple taper needle and jets from this year as a starting point. I believe the engines and porting were identical in the 00 and 01. We made this swap (TMX to PWK) on my brother in law's 01 CR250 with great results. I also swapped a 00 CR250 PWK into my Yamaha WR250-- tried diferrent needles and the stock triple taper needle provided the best results.
  6. haydenjsle

    2003 yz85 trail riding

    Definitely go with Eric Gorr's cylinder mod--cheap and creates a more linear power band with better low end. Next would be to lower front and rear gearing as low as possible---1st gear is really high since its a race bike. Lots of other mods will help...but these will yield the best results to start. Ive done both to my son's YZ85....it serves double duty as a trail and race bike.
  7. haydenjsle

    2004 yz 85 boggs out in powerband

    Kind of odd that your YZ85 has great bottom end power....YZ85s are notorious for a lack of bottom end due to a lack of power valve and factory jetting From the factory they're like light switches in the mid to topend mostly due to overrich factory jetting, needle profile, and carb slide. Makes me wonder: 1. Were cylinder ports and/or compression altered and carb never setup properly to compensate for these mods. 2. Ignition timing advanced too far. 3. Needle and/ or main jet changed severly undersized for mid to topend. Pilot seems like it might be close if it idles--still might be the cause of some spooge out of the silencer--slightly rich but close--somewhat normal for a 2 stroke. If plug indicates lean, sounds like main might be lean and needle position too low. Your pilot might be a little rich and your pre-mix ratio on the rich side (oil) causing some spooge at lower RPM. Post specs on main and pilot jets, needle, needle position, slide # and premix type and ratio. I'd start at factory specs. on the carb, timing, and plug and go from there. Also, make sure the air filter is clean and unobstructed. I live at 4700ft and had to drop several sizes in the main and pilot and lower the needle to help clean up the spooge in my son's YZ85. I still don't like the factory needle profile (too rich) and the overly rich slide. I think the KX85 NAPE needle and slide will help clean it up even more and make the power band more linear.
  8. haydenjsle

    what year kdx 200 to buy or 220

    95-06 KDX 200 are all the same mechanically...just cosmetic changes. 97-05 KDX 220 are also the same...just cosmetics. The 200 versus 220 is engine mechanical differences only. Stock--the 200 is more well rounded in the power dept. versus the 220 which is designed for more bottom end. The 220 even uses a smaller carb than the 200...and, I believe, a slightly heavier flywheel. Both are great bikes and can be modded to suit your riding style and conditions. The only major thing to watch out for is stock pistons on the 220. They tend to crack...especially if it's piped or modded...a Wiseco piston remedies this. I just picked up a '00 KDX 200 for my daughter as an upgrade from her TTR125...it's a great trail bike with potential as her skills improve.
  9. haydenjsle

    the irreplaceable carb gasket/oring

    Try calling RB Designs.....I believe he replaces these for an extra charge when doing his PWK carb mods. I would bet he has the correct one for your application and could clear up the confusion. Usually an overrich condition that can't be cured through jetting and needles is the symptom....excess fuel is pulled through the leaking gasket. I'd put some blue loctite on the security screws when reinstalling....I think this is how they come from the factory also. http://rb-designs.com/
  10. haydenjsle

    TTR90..... NO FUEL getting into the carb ...help?

    Pull the fuel hose off carb... then turn petcock on...is there fuel coming out? If so, problem is needle and seat on your float is sticking or float itself is sticking or binding--if, in fact, you are not getting fuel into the bowl. Its usually the pilot jet thats stubborn to clean on these TTR90s....especially after sitting for awhile. This causes it to act like its not getting fuel from the tank.... when actually its not getting fuel pulled through the pilot circuit because its obstructed (usually from dried gas deposits). Does it run? If so, does it run better with the choke on...then reclean or replace the pilot jet.
  11. haydenjsle

    wr250 Sprocket Change?

    I use a 12,13,14 (stock), and 15 front and just change to suit my riding conditions. I never mess with stock rear as its more timely to change. I use the 12 for extremely tight single track (trials type terrain) and the 15 for hill climbs and 13/ 14 for everything in between.
  12. haydenjsle

    2001 yz250f- opinions

    I bought my daughter an 01 YZ250Fa couple years back--good,solid bike except some have inherent issues with the carb...particularly the accelerator pump circuit. After trying all the mods and tuning tips for the AP circuit, I was still never able to get rid of the inherent bog...finally sold it after much frustration. IIRC, I read a couple comments that this might actually be a fault in some factory 01 ignition modules. 2002 had same issue but not as bad--AP tuning seem to cure. 03 and up seem to be even less problematic and the carb seems to respond to mods better. Do a search on 01 YZ250F AP carb problems before you buy. I'd spend the extra money and look for 03 and up. The 01 was a good bike otherwise....just make sure it doesn't have a bog or hesitation of any sort if you decide to purchase.
  13. Here's some mods that helped tame the hit a bit on my 97 WR250Z. They also helped with more bottom end and made for a more linear power curve. It made for easier tight trail riding and less shifting which would compliment your gearing changes. These bikes (94-97 WR250) are notorious for their hard hitting mid range and lack of bottom end--they utilize the 94 YZ250 motor.--Carb swap to PWK Airstriker Quad Vent 38mm --RB Designs carb mods --RB Designs head mods and compression correction for altitude
  14. My opinion--based on my trail riding: 1. RB Designs carb mods--divider plate installed and low speed circuit mods on the PWK Air Striker carb. Improves bottom and mid while retaining top end. I'd probably give a slight edge to this one over the head mods below. 2. RB Designs head mods--squish band narrowed and compression corrected for altitude. Keeps it running cleaner and smoother and bumping the compression improves bottom end.
  15. haydenjsle

    97 Wr250 & Fat bars

    You don't have to buy new triple clamps--just buy the big bar adapters. This is what I did on my 97 WR250. It moved the bars up and slightly forward which was actually my intention in the first place--improving the riding position.