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Redpoint

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About Redpoint

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    British Columbia
  1. What are you using to protect where the tank & engine meet in this pic? I have the same problem. Nearly rubbed through both the tank and the valve inspection cap before I first noticed it. Duct tape only works for a handful of rides before it melts through.
  2. Over 300km of singletrack in a day???
  3. Canadian version of Harbor Freight, so tons of people shop there. The company started as a small parts store on Princess Street in Winnipeg MB, hence the name. We don't have an ultra-religious homophobic culture like the US, and don't give two shits about what a company calls itself. Ride on!
  4. Pick up a Knipex pliers wrench. I have one in my moto tool bag, and one on my workbench. Perfect for fork caps (both moto and MTB) & valve cover caps. Also has enough torque for axle nuts, so you don't need to carry both a 24mm and 17mm wrench on the trails. Expensive, but mine have paid for themselves in just one year, as they are my go-to wrench in far more situations than I originally anticipated.
  5. I stand corrected. Interesting that Service Honda lists the same swingarm from 86-91, but 90 shows a disc brake. Either the swingarm info isn't correct, or you should be able to pretty much bolt-on a rear disc upgrade with just the caliper/hose/mastcyl/pedal from a 90/91 (not inclucing the master cylinder mount). I hadn't heard of that before or even noticed the disc brake interface on my 87 swingarm. Always heard you needed the 92-95 swingarm.
  6. Rear disc started in 92, so yours should be between 92-95.
  7. ^ Those pegs look like the Chinese knockoffs on eBay, which I highly recommend. Been using a similar set on my XR400 for about 7 years with no problems. The model years is slightly incorrect though, 86-95 should all be the same. 96-up is definitely different. You can also get a blinging set of XRS Only pegs. I have them on my 87 250 and they're bomber. Bought them before the above pegs started coming out though or I would have bought the cheaper pegs for sure.
  8. While you're at it, pick up a cheap volt meter and learn how to use it. Diagnosing electrical issues will become relatively easy. Two options of many: Princess Auto Cantire
  9. Pretty sure your spring rate is the issue and you're going to be disappointed by an oil viscosity/volume change. Read this. And this.
  10. Sounds to me like your spring rate is way too soft. Have you assessed that?
  11. IMO it would be too tall for you. I'm just under 6' and have that same year bike. It used to feel tall for me, but next to my XR400, it's a low-rider. On the other hand, my dad is 5'3" and I had him out for a ride on it one day - just down some gravel roads, nothing technical. Every time he stopped, the bike was on the ground. He just couldn't get his foot down before the weight of the bike was too much to hold. He's no off-road racer, but he's owned bikes since he was 14. If you can, try one out before buying. Or, even try out another bike that's close to the same standover height. Only you can tell what you're comfortable with.
  12. The main drain is at the bottom of the engine on the shifter side. Make sure you follow the proper procedure for checking the level, it's not like other bikes. Do a search on here, it's detailed about a couple hundred dozen times, specifically on page 2 of Kev_XR's FAQ thread. Just about everyone does it wrong the first time.
  13. Edit: wrote this before reading your last post. Here's a little more descriptive explanation of what I think is happening. Note that at all times, ambient air pressure is at the airbox side. The diverter valve is closed (spring compressed) when there is sufficient vacuum on the intake side of the carb. The access for this vacuum is the ports in pics 2 and 3. Air coming to the diverter valve (and through when open) from the airbox side via the diverter valve port in pic 5 is again at ambient air pressure. It's this difference in pressure that sucks the valve closed. Idle & open throttle Not enough vacuum to close diverter valve. Therefore, diverter valve is open. Air is passing through the diverter valve onto where the pilot jet hole comes out (pics 6&7). Snapping throttle closed Enough vacuum to close the diverter valve. Therefore, the extra air above is not allowed into the pilot circuit, effectively richening the mixture. Note that there also should be a passage between the pilot port/jet and the fuel screw. This is missing in your pics, not sure if it's assumed or not.
  14. "center diverter valve port" in your pics. My scenario 2 above.
  15. I think this is what is actually happening. At idle, the air bleed screw is allowed to flow air along with the fuel/air mixture of the pilot circuit. When the throttle is snapped closed from open, the diverter valve closes, and the air bleed screw no longer feeds the mixture. In fact, on the parts schematic, the cover to the diverter is even called "air cut-off valve cover".
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