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    01 YZ250 Rear Shock Rebuild.

    I agree. Not great, but good for refrence: I just follow the pictures etc, then when I get to "grind peened edge off the nut to remove from shaft", I say "&%$#@!?"... then I search on TT or whatever and find out how to do it. I used that page as my outline basically, when I did my first revalve on the DR650 shock, and I was successful. OP, I don't even change my own tires anymore, rather take them to a shop. But I do my own shock services now, and after the first it's a breeze.

    Just installed a Rekluse exp 2.0 in my 01 yz250

    Thought I would pass this on, since I had to learn the hard way: even though you can now pull a 2nd gear climb in 3rd with an autoclutch, you still need to do it in 2nd gear... Just because the A/C let's you lug a higher gear, you're still compensating by slipping your clutch essentially, which can burn up your clutch prematurely. Enjoy it, the A/C is awesome, but don't get too lazy on your shifting.

    01 YZ250 Rear Shock Rebuild.

    You shouldn't have any problem if you've done your forks and top already. I'm not sure why the shock always gets the "so hard" tag... if I can do it, anyone can. Go for it. I use this for refrence, not a YZ but same process, minus the valve-stack stuff: http://www.procycle.us/info/guides/dr650/shock-build.html

    Sticker Removal

    Razor blade: drag it backwards 2-3 times across glass (windshield or something) to dull it just enough to not gouge your plastics. Getting the residual glue off: I prefer Goo Gone, it's citrus based, works amazing. Give a final wipe with a water-wet rag to get any residue off. Heat: I use a heat gun but a hairdryer works great. I've even used an iron before too... Finally, after you get the old graphics off, make sure the surface is super flat before putting any new ones on or else the bumps will show through. Like, if you have any scrapes in your side panels, use a 200+ grit sandpaper to take it back down to flat; just sand off the high points. Good luck.

    please help

    Agreed. I had a locksmith fabricate a new key for $80.

    DR350 caughs and does not rev

    It sounds like you have air and spark covered. Is the fuel delivery good? Floats set to spec, jets in the ball park, petcock operating properly? A tiny chunk of anything in one of the jets can completely disable a bike. Also, check for cracks in the air boot.

    does this make anyone else sick???

    Well, at least we can all look forward to some new dirt bike rap tunes coming out in 2012.

    wr295 overheating need advise!

    Beats me. But what about rad fans? I had to do 2 fans on an old rock-Jeep, they helped out considerably.

    Whatcha guys think of my bike?

    If you've ever said "wow, this steel frame is really holding me back", then go 2006 If not, either keep riding it as is or just upgrade your suspension.

    Rear tire DR 650

    I've run the 606 and the Mt21. Both great. But if you want any performance on the street, they both suck. Knobbies just suck on the twisties... some are better than others, but they'll never be as good as a dualsport tire. I'm usually more concerned with of road performance, so I like the knobbies, but even the DOT versions are not great on asphalt. I'm actually going to pull the trigger on a Mefo Explorer 130/80-17 this week. I read alot about it, supposed to be a great 50/50 tire and last for 7,000+ miles... but they're $150 a pop for a rear. No such thing as a "do it all tire", like a dualsport you have to compromise. The best tip is to buy a good tire gauge and get the best pressures for whatever tire you get off road. I did some impressive stuff on the stock Trail Wing at 13psi F and B.

    WR250: replacement Kickstand?

    Why not. Pictures and measurements would be great. Thanks!
  12. As for the grabby clutch, I'm not familair with the Rekluse exp, but with my Dynaring the gap is crucial to getting rid of the grabbness. So changing the gap will likely help. Idle is a big factor: the auto clutches engage relative to engine RPM. So, if your idle is too high it will effectively "trick" the clutch into thinking your trying to drive/accelerate. With the auto clutch I set my idle as low as I can without killing it. If the idle is high your clutch will think your at 1/8-1/4 throttle, respectively. Since you idle is rough, se if you can smoothen out out to idle lower; if not, then skip to the clutch gap. First: set you idle as low as you can. If that doesn't help then you'll need to address the gap. Also, the auto clutches don't perform at their best until your motor is completely warmed up. So make sure you're hot before assessing for adjustments. Final note: my Dynaring took a bit of break in. After setting it as best I could, brand new, it was still a little grabby, but after my first real ride on it (about 2hrs) it was smooth like butter. Plus, unless you like to idle your bike, in gear, on the kickstand without ou on it, who cares if it grabs a little... You won't notice when actually riding. As for the brake pedal: I would try to space it ot more before bending it if you can. It is OK to bend it, but that will weaken your lever, if only a little bit.

    WR250: replacement Kickstand?

    Howdy, 1994 WR250. I'm having some difficulty finding an OEM (or aftermarket) replacement kickstand for the WR. It's the one with the 2 holes in the swingarm. I would prefer to find an aftermarket replacement; don't want to spend $300 on the acual OEM one. I'd rather not use a different mounting design since the WR swingarm is designed to mount a kickstand. They're all the same from 94 to 97. Anyone know where I can find one? Remember anyone that makes direct replacement? Want to sell me yours? Thanks in advance.

    alright guys lets see ur dr's! put up some pics!

    Ha! First I crank the stand all the way down. Then I just tilt the bike way over on the kickstand (get the back tire off the ground), kick the MX stand under it, and then upright the bike back onto the sand. This technique actually killed my FLY aluminum stand, cracked it. Thanks for posting that up, BTW, I had forgotten how much I've changed the bike over the years... it looks quite different now, most obvious is the swap to yelow plastics:ride:

    Engine surge ?

    Surge = lean. Means too much air/irradic air supply. Check for leaks, see if turning air screw in 1/2 turn stops it...