thedktor

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About thedktor

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  1. Funnily enough just doing my current DR, and it was pretty horrible what came out! Don't worry too much about the quantities mentioned as forks usually "hide" a small amount of oil unless you strip them right down. Its about 550ml but as mentioned the air gap is the important thing, springs out forks compressed. -Steve (UK)
  2. Point being the starter and ignition appear to be on a separate circuit, so just because the starter spins it doesnt mean the plug will spark. On mine just putting the switch in the right position sorts it. Might be worth checking the stop button if you have one. Normally stop buttons can just be disconnected to eliminate.
  3. Well, I don't know what your mechanical or motorcycling experience is but the DR250 will be newer, electric start, and presumably ready to ride. ie less hassle. Ride it, see how you like it and get a feel for what you want out of a bike. You won't regret buying a DR250, but you might decide after 6 months you want a bigger engine for the road, or maybe a more focused off-road bike for tracks, or a car, or a truck or a boat or....
  4. XT350 I have owned, some years back now. Brilliant bikes, much better on the road than a 250. But.... kick start only and most are quite old now, unless you have your eyes on a late model?
  5. My ignition switch if turned about a mm past the ON position will let the starter spin but it won't start. So.... could be your ignition switch. CDI are usually the last thing to go, electrical connections, switches, and wires the first thing to go [on older bikes]
  6. Nice bikes - I ran one for a year while my 350 was having some down-time. No where near as much low end power though, and geared lower to suit , so more revs on the road. 60mph no problem anyway. Don'y pay too much as they are not as popular as the 350 - same weight less power. No problems I'm aware of, you just need to be confident that the oil has been changed regularly and not allowed to run down to nothing! No smoke or rattles is generally a good sign....
  7. Ah well done. So on the DR350 the grooves line up with the edge of the cylinder head case as per my pic, that sounds the same? Don't forget to put some tension on the chain, on the same side as the adjuster when checking. If you put the chain a tooth out you will see it is obviously out - if the marks don't line up properly your chain may be worn. A little tiny bit of misalignment like 1 or 2 degrees is ok and not unusual.
  8. Tricky, but there must be some marks somewhere - this is the DR350, marks on the end of the cam: Put the cam in the position so the valves are closed ie its loose and the lobes are pointing away from the rockers and see what could line up. T is TDC yes.
  9. Yes your main is way, way, way too big! A KTM525 uses a 178 as a comparison, but you have a much smaller carb so the main will be significantly less - put it all back to stock and start again. Get it running right at idle first, you may need to go up a size or two on the pilot jet due to the big bore.
  10. Yep that is me, and it works great, BUT there was a lot of jetting work involved so I would recommend sticking to the tried and tested 33mm on a stock bike. The reason I spent so much time getting the Keihin FCR to fit and work is that the throttle action is a lot smoother as the carb has rollers on the slide. But I have not yet figured out how to fit it to an electric start DR as that would be the perfect set up! The CV carb is actually very good, simple and easy to work with, the problem is that these bikes are quite old now and ANY carb fitted will give problems as o-rings etc deteriorate so it just comes down to maintenance...
  11. Wouldn't matter at all. If the cam didn't have the auto decompressor it might be a bit slow turning over on the starter. Sounds like the cam chain was loose (very worn, or tensioner/guides not put in properly. Or it broke....
  12. I have been playing around with DR's for many years...... plug the hole, and sort the float needle valve, or you will waste a lot of time. Your call
  13. Oh, and the spring for the camchain adjuster is quite weak on a DR.
  14. A "good" DR engine is much quieter than yours I have to say, have you had the rocker cover off to check for cam/rocker wear? Sounds like your cam chain is ok from what you say, and they make a ticking noise rather than what the video shows. The small clank when you shut off is just the sprag clutch in the starter gears catching when the engine turns slightly backwards after stopping, due to the cylinder compression, no problem there!
  15. Ah, main jet is #132.5. If the airbox lid has been opened up its common to put in a #140 main.