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About uranys

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  1. It's the float bowl. It warps (bows) over time and starts leaking. I was told they make a viton gasket that fixes the problem. I called lectron and they sent me one but it was the wrong size. I ended up taking the bowl off, clamping it to a flat surface and heating it with a heat gun a few times. That made it better but it still didn't seal so I lapped it on some sand paper on a flat surface until it was even. That fixed it for a while but it's now leaking again. Its a great carb, but I wish it would have come with a conventional cast float bowl. I also had issues with debris getting in through the top where the throttle cable comes in. I fixed that by putting some rubber hose over the elbow and cable and zip tying it tight on the ends.
  2. Lifters look good to me but it's hard to tell in pictures. As long as you can't feel any wear with your fingernail they should be okay. As far as the rest of it goes... If your lucky the cam chain ate through the tensioner then it jumped time and stalled and maybe all you need is to change the oil, a new tensioner and cam chain. If your not so lucky it jumped time and the piston hit the valves and now it needs the stuff I mentioned before plus new valves and maybe a piston and a rod too. You should pull the head off and take a look.
  3. Again, why are you weighing it dry? Dry weight is useless IMO, weigh it in the condition you ride it.
  4. I can't recall what jetting i'm running but a 65 pilot seems big to me. You can't just plug the hole for the hot start, it's a plunger that blocks a hole at the bottom like the choke, so if you don't plug it right it's effectivly on and your going to be lean.
  5. The motor that's currently in my bike is an old twin carb motor (85ish) with a single carb head (96ish). You can use your cam chain but you will need re-use the gear from your old cam and flip it over to get things to line up. I think i took one of the bigger dowels and cut it in half and used the halves to sleeve down the larger dowl holes in the head. I didn't do anything with the head bolts as I figured the dowels would be enough to hold it in place and I've got quite a few miles on it with no issues. Hope that helps
  6. The primary reason I posted my pic was to point out the uselessness of weighing a bike in a state thats not rideable. If your going to weigh it, put everything in it it needs to run and a full tank of gas cause that's how you ride it! I'm always surprised by how much heavier they are when you weigh them compared to published specs. I also don't care as I've ridden heavy bikes that feel light and light bikes that feel heavy.
  7. According to the Sport Rider Motorcyle Performance Numbers page at http://www.sportrider.com/performance_numbers/146_motorcycle_performance_numbers/viewall.html An '08 BMW F800s has a top speed of 135mph and according to the wikipedia page it has 85.2 hp I'm not sure if that's crank or rear wheel hp, but it doesn't really matter because the f800 has probably got a lower coefficient of drag due to it's fairing and there's pretty much no feasable way to get 85hp out of an XRL engine So even if there is a video it's still bullshit, unless it's a video of an xrl falling out of a plane Tales of 284lb and 136mph XRLs... clearly then end of times is here!
  8. Check that your wheels aren't out of true and that the rear isn't crooked (don't trust the alignment marks, use a tape measure from the axle to the swingarm pivot) Also look over your frame for signs of damage.
  9. You will need a switch that is closed in the off position. Run one lead to ground or earth (or whatever you call it there) and splice the other lead into the wire that goes from the cdi to the kill switch.
  10. I think he probably meant the wristpin bearing. It's the one that goes between the piston and the piston pin and allows the piston to move forwards and backwards. I don't think it's common for it to fail, much more likely that one of the clips that hold the wrist pin came out. At any rate how does the head look? does the crank rotate now that you have the head off? is there any up and down play in the crank? You can check it by pulling the rod up and tapping on it with a plastic mallet or dead blow hammer, then do the same thing pushing down on the rod. If you can feel any play or the noise it makes changes you probably need to rebuild or replace your crank. I'd get it the cylinder replated before sleeving if the damage isn't too severe. Post up some pictures if you can. Everyone loves pictures.
  11. The pirelli xcmh is the best dual sport front i've tried so far. It works well off road and way better on road than you'd think a knobby could. It also wears pretty well too. For the rear you might try an pirelli mt43 trials tire. I prefer a knobby off road but the mt43 does pretty good if you air it down when you get to the trails and wears well on the road because it has a lot of surface.
  12. Here is a pic of my 240lb xr600r
  13. I'll add that you can also make adapter out of pvc by getting a piece thats slightly smaller in diameter than the intake side of the carb (sorry, don't recall the size), heat it with a heat gun until it gets soft and slip it on to the carb. Kind of a middle ground solution between your first adapter and the 3d printed one. I have the 4 gallon ims tank on my bike too and don't have fittment issues, although I think I added a bunch of fender washers to one of the front mounting brackets to get it closer to center on the frame.
  14. Both BRP and TM designs makes chain guides that are superior to the oem roller setup
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