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About wayne0

  • Rank
    TT Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    New Zealand
  • Interests
    going fast,
  1. wayne0

    clutch hub bolt stuck

    Right then I am unable to undo the centre nut on clutch basket, I have heated it as much as I can with little butane touch. I have the clutch hub holding tool and clamping it as hard as I dear where hub has webbing, have tried impact gun but holding tool rattles off and am starting to mark hub. This bolt is not left hand thread is it? didn't say in manual about thread. how much heat can be used? is there another way to hold hub? what else can I try, willing to try anything at this stage. Please HELP is driving me mad.
  2. wayne0

    2005 rmz250 advice!

    my 06 has never missed a beat or over heated in the 10yrs I've had it, I trail ride allsorts and often have to wait in a queue will idling in 30 deg C heat. people with overheating should be checking fuel/air ratio.
  3. wayne0

    spark plug?

    I tried iridium plug in my 06 rmz it didn't like it, went back to normal NGK CR8E and run good again
  4. wayne0

    06 RMZ250

    06 awesome bike, bought mine 6mths old off a young racer (sold as got KTM as a sponsor), I detuned it as it had hi comp piston and was a bitch to trail ride, only liked WOT. I still have bike today with over 300hrs and has never missed a beat. have a look at my last post "stiff cam". Still check bike over no matter how new it is. check for vibrations from bottom end
  5. wayne0

    Stiff Cam

    Ok have fixed it, I torqued cap down and run a very fine hone through couple of times real slow, must have been a small edge or nick that I couldn't see. Torque wrench is always used as is so easy to under estimate tightness with small bolts. bike has done over 300hrs ad only ever done rings and piston once. Never had any problems. Run Castrol 4T oil, is cheap so change it more than it needs, even so things do wear out so should I rebuild top and bottom or upgrade.
  6. wayne0

    Stiff Cam

    Just shimmed valves and once inlet cam cap tightened with torque wrench, the cam is stiff to turn, have removed, cleaned, checked for marks or dirt, none on cam or cap, still as soon as I tighten bolts (in order) even finger tight cam stiffens up, would rotate fine before removed. Have removed shims and buckets re-cleaned and checked a couple of times now, and still stiff. Cam clearance is good. Cap was left off bike for few days while bought correct shims. was not dropped or otherwise touched. What has changed Not the first time I have removed cams and shimmed. Stock 06 RMZ250
  7. wayne0

    Which crank should i buy

    Well I bought a Crankworx crank only to find the clutch side of the crank shaft drops straight into the bearing in the case, I am able to slide it in and out of bearing (with a bit of wiggling) . I put old bearing on shaft and am just able to turn inside bearing race on shaft, now have to piss around and send it back and hope they believe me that it not made to correct tolerance. Crankworx crank $264 OEM crank $400 (hotrod was $275) Will be buying oem crank. Nothing is ever simple.
  8. Right I have read a lot about crankshalft assemblies, hotrods, wiseco and oem. have read a fair amount of bad reviews about hotrods and know to not touch wiseco cranks But has anyone used Crankworx complete crank assy. cost difference between OEM and Crankworx is about NZ$120. or is oem the only safe way to go. Crank is going in 08 KX85 (clutch side thread and rod stuffed on crank) appreciate your opinions
  9. wayne0

    Real men don't wear shop gloves!

    I have just started wearing gloves, should have done it years ago, not only my hands are cleaner but everything I used to touch later that day is cleaner too now. (keeps the wife happy, no black oily sink and towels)
  10. wayne0


    Run pre-mix at no less than 32.1 My son is just learning to ride his so was running leaner mix so plug would foul (suggested by a mate) when I wasn't watching son was riding it on the pipe in 1st and 2nd on short track, I am now replacing top and bottom end, First time doing a bottom end and learning it the hard way. Was looking for tips on rebuild now.
  11. wayne0

    timing chain stretch

    I have just done valve shims on rmz250 06 and am setting the timing, problem is the marks on cams don't line up perfectly with casing edge. with the right hand bottom crank mark lined up, and the correct number of teeth between the cam dots, the dot on the ex valve is slightly above casing and inlet in equally below casing. if I shift it all 1 tooth forward then the dot on ex cam is slightly below the casing and the inlet dot equally above the casing. should cam dots line up perfect like picture in manual, How do I check for cam chain stretch. Thanks Guys
  12. wayne0

    how to tell the year of a kx450f?

    So what year is mine it has letter D as 8th digit, it is alloy frame and has 5 gears. kawa web site was no help.
  13. wayne0

    13/ kx450f eng vs klx450r eng

    depends on how hard you want to ride. kx engine revs & pulls way harder than klx I do long trial rides on my 08 kx450f and its fine just got to get your gearing right. klx engine should outlast kx engine cause power and revs = engine wear.
  14. wayne0

    08 kx450f carburetor problems

    I think When I come to a stand still after riding hard my bike idles high but drops down to normal set idle if I blip the throttle or if I stop the engine and then restart the idle is normal. is this what you are saying.
  15. Hi all just done my front fork seals 08 kx450f, manual say outer oil 345ml inner(subtank) 170ml so do I refill with 345ml or 345ml + 170ml. also whats your opinion on seal savers, do they work? my concern is as they are stretchy could grit get caught under them and over time scratch the fork. cheers