Jump to content

turboguzzi

Members
  • Content Count

    52
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About turboguzzi

  • Rank
    TT Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Italy

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. turboguzzi

    91' 350s clutch noise

    Unless you see signs of metal swarf in the oil, super high wear marks on parts, you are worrying for nothing. only thing i would check is the shock absorber springs in the basket. try to rotate the gear against the basket, should be almost no movement, if it rotates a lot, then springs are gone, hard to DIY fix, find another basket... cant see how different oil would help, and if there was an issue with the bearing washer, then youd hear it when you pull the clutch, not the other way round... what is it that you dont like about this washer?
  2. turboguzzi

    Dr650 oil weep

    "I'd love to take care of her to the best of my abilities" most likely the seal of the cam chain tensioner, not difficult to fix if you have some experience, BUT, if you are a total noob like you sound, take into account that you'll have to remove the exhaust header to get access, maybe also the gearbox oil feed pipe and starter. Then you have to know how to install the the tensioner back with the plunger retracted, the engine rotated so that run of the chain is slack and only then install the spring. not rocket science but you'll have to go through the manual and understand what you are doing. Accept also non related issues could appear along the way, like seized exhaust bolts, etc. if you are a handy person, go for it. if not, ride it like this, not a real issue or give to to a pro to fix. my best tip for wannabe mechanic is buy a small non runner 125 for 100$, make it into a runner, cut your teeth on it and only then start working on your beloved 650.
  3. turboguzzi

    2000 RM250 USD Fork Swap to DR350SE Underway!!

    In vintage road racing you end up doing forks swaps all the time, so.... bearings wise you seem to be ok, I usually purchase them separately on ebay and then order just the OEM seals. main bummer is usually stem length. mock together your rm triples with bearing, spacers, etc. and measure the distance between the bearing edges, then estimate from the outside where it will "fall" on the 350 neck. you can compensate if it's few mms off longer with spacers, but if it's more things get complicated. if RM stem too short then it's surely a swap or do one from scratch. i usually turn them from solid 2024 alloy, not that hard to do on a lathe if you are handy.
  4. turboguzzi

    350 up and running

    tnxs man, i like to do too much technical/slow stuff, need even lower gearing actually out of curiosity as I am a tuner.... are you cutting your own gears? or is it through some secret Frankensteining of OEM parts?
  5. turboguzzi

    350 up and running

    my 350 is up and running again after a weird piston crown edge failure... rebuilt it with a low miles ebay piston/cyl combo. While there did some port resahping, changed valve guide seals, brought squish height down to 1mm so it can do some good, changed main jet in the CV carb to 132 (stock was 127.5) and in general gave it some TLC. Not sure many know this tool that makes reinstalling the valve cotters so much easier. Mine is a DIY but it looks more or less like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/KiWAV-valve-cotter-tool-2-valve-engine-remove-install-for-valve-stems-up-to-6mm/401833291307?epid=20006703285&hash=item5d8f216e2b:g:TrQAAOSwFKtdQohh and works like this: I really hate valve spring clamps, this tool makes life so much easier, specially when you need to put together a 16v I4 head... Another takeaway/tip on e-start SEs: dont forget to mount the starter motor before mounting the cam chain tensioner and only then mount the oil line from right case cover to gearbox. Also mount the starter motor electric cable before mounting the carb rubber manifold, otherwise you cant put on the nut holding the cable on the post... space bellow the manifold is that tight! All good so far, motor feels a tad more revvier past 6K rpm, but wasnt expecting that light porting job to turn into a horsepower monster anyway. It seems to cruise more easily at 70mph with more oomph left to climb up to 80 if i need to pass cars. the jetting change makes it feel a bit more responsive to the throttle. The clutch basket grinding mod didn't solve the difficulty in finding neutral at stand still, so right engine cover will need to come off again regretfully for a complete change of clutch plates. If any one has an opinion on OEM plates kit vs. EBC, I would love to hear from you. Glad the 350 is running again as the R80 G/S Beemer is not that much fun to handle in the mud!
  6. turboguzzi

    Help identifying Headlight please!

    indeed, looks like an old acerbis model.... this is pretty close copy https://id.aliexpress.com/item/1429097066.html
  7. turboguzzi

    1994 DR 350 SE Exhaust Valve Lash

    you are worrying a bit too much.... anything between 0.15 - 0.2mm and you'll be fine. More clearance is safer but noisier, that's all... Here in europe people tend to modify bikes a lot less, plenty of very stock DR350s between 1000 to 2500 $/euro to be found, so it will never going to be a real collector's item, Of all dual purpose bikes, only BMW R80GS and early alloy tank XT500s seem to have good collectible value, so ride the hell out of your 350 and smile. You are not going to get rich by keeping it in storage ! I for one dont mind getting both my G/S80 and my well kept stock DR350 dirty and muddy on the trails.
  8. turboguzzi

    Rear fender lighting and wiring

    even better than the one in the manual...
  9. turboguzzi

    Installing a different engine

    Closest fit would be a dr350 but you'd need to McGiver the swingarm pivot area which goes through the cases in the DRZ400. But as i have installed a XTZ660 motor in a TZ250 road racing frame to build a Supermono racer, I can tell you anything is possible....
  10. there's no gasket there because otherwise the cam bearing clearance would be way too big.... next time use Loctite 515 or 519 and youll be back riding in 1 hour....
  11. that's what i call a cute and compact press drill
  12. glad people stopped you from JB welding it as your oil leak is only half the problem of a stripped bolt.... use your common sense and youll realize that bolt is the not there just to stop the oil form coming out but mainly to resist the big forces from the cam lobes that push the cover up. with a stripped bolt that force will bend the cover in the unsupported area, loading other bolts and causing eventually a bigger failure. now here is a free secret tip that could solve your problem almost for free. As happens in many holes, the thread in the head is much deeper than the length of the bolt that sticks out form the cover. find/buy a longer M6 bolt, say +10mm, and screw it into the cover/head. it will stop turning at one point when it bottoms in the hole while still not touching the cover as it's longer than needed. now measure the gap with a caliper, add 1mm to what you measured and then saw off the longer bolt precisely by that amount. The longer bolt will be able to use the deeper healthy threads and most likely will be strong enough if you are carefully when tightening it. be sure to dress the cut thread so they are smooth, check first with a nut that they thread in easily. I just measured that hole in the head and there are 15mm of thread depth, most likely the original bolt uses just 7-8mm of that, so you have still another 7-8mm that has unused threads. it might just work.... And dont tell anybody i told you this tip, it's a top secret of the suzook cult.
  13. turboguzzi

    Busted Fork Seal. Rebuild or forks upgrade?

    interesting question.... maybe it's only me, but I would never install and ebay fork without servicing it, cleaning it form the inside and checking that everything internals are safe... even if seller says it's got zero miles... as you can imagine, used RM forks are not coming from bikes that grandma rides to the grocery store, full rebuild would be heavily recommended so you'd have to do a full service in both cases, but if you read those fork swap threads you can see it's not exactly a bolt on job. if you are doubting your skills to do the swap, dont go into this, you really need to know what you are doing
  14. turboguzzi

    Valves too tight or something worse?

    If you still want to give it a last try and save some money at the shop, would dismantle the cover, fix it well upside down with a clamp to a sturdy table, heat the aluminium again and give it a hit from bellow. BTW, for this kind of job i use a chisel just to create an indent, then use a flat drift to actually jolt the bolt. If you keep using the chisel you are essentialy just cutting the head, not really shocking it. Sometines just a chissel works, but a flat drift works better....
  15. turboguzzi

    85' DR500 why so cold blooded?

    kudos for coming back to riding! way to go! could be also ignition related as well as general wear.... the 500s start to have some following now, specially if they are stock and nice, so why not simply sell it, get for the money a dr350 or 400 with e-start? they will be also lighter to handle which could be another advantage during your recovery...
×