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About Itchykawa

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    TT Bronze Member

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  1. Itchykawa

    XR650L rear axle spacers - HELP!

    Okay, I figured out I was correct on the spacer placement. The small one will hub out on the seal on the sprocket side so it MUST go on the disc side. I bet I have R&R'd an XR650L rear wheel at least a hundred times since 1994. I had never had this happen before so I had never really had any reason to believe I might have gotten the spacers wrong so I had never even had to think about it. All that and time was running out so panic was setting in. LOL. I put the wheel back on, didn't torque the axle nut quite as much, and then it would roll. Then I rode it for 10 miles and everything seems to be acceptable now. I don't know what axle nut torque could have had to do with it though, (unless they didn't seat the new bearings all the way so they weren't touching the inner spacer and this had them in a bind ). Maybe, as a friend has since suggested, those new bearings just needed to be "loosened up" after sitting around my shop for a couple of years. Actually, they had been in my freezer for most of that time. It's a long, weird story. Oh well, I will find out if all is well tomorrow for sure. Wish me luck. CHEERS!
  2. I'm set to leave on a trip in the morning on the BRP. I wanted to get new bearings/seals front and rear and get my wheels trued before leaving. Truing wheels is not my specialty so I dropped them at a shop I trust and just paid them to do everything. I just got them back and installed them on the bike and now the rear wheel will not spin. It's like the brakes are engaged but they're not. I removed the wheel and checked and the bearings are stiff but I can turn them with my finger. I also made sure they didn't forget to install the inner spacer and it's there. The shop is now closed so taking it back there isn't an option. The only thing I can think is that maybe I got the two outer spacers switched. I have the long one on the left (sprocket) side and the short one on the right (disc) side. Can anyone confirm this is correct? I checked online parts diagrams and they are not conclusive in this matter. Thanks!
  3. Itchykawa

    Hand guard recommendation

    I run these too. They are hard to beat on the 650L.
  4. If that doesn't work, or if it threatens to scratch the surface, go to your nearest hardware store and purchase #00000 steel wool. It comes in a small "bale" in a plastic bag. The more 0's in the number, the milder it will be on your stainless steel's finish. A brillo pad, or anything similar will scratch it up for sure. #00000 steel wool and some non-abrasive cleaner - I use WD40 - is what you want to try. #00000 steel wool and WD40 is a GREAT non-abrasive cleaner for chrome, but I do not know how it will affect the color of the super-heated pipe. Maybe someone here can elaborate further on this. Whatever you try use it in a nonconspicuous area first and see what happens. Good luck and keep us informed.
  5. Itchykawa

    Pipe recommendations

    Yes, the '83 model's header is a good deal bigger in diameter and is suposed to out-perform even most aftermarket "performance" headers of today. This has been discussed on TT. Do a thread search and know for sure but I am thinking stock header pipes up to '87 or so are highly sought after for their size and performance value. I know too there are a lot of them for sale on fleabay and they aren't cheap.
  6. Itchykawa

    FCR XR650L Sudco pumper carb

    Agree. And make no mistake about it - I admire you gifted tuners. I'm just a parts changer.
  7. Itchykawa

    FCR XR650L Sudco pumper carb

    WOW. I just read this entire thread and suddenly don't believe I would ever part with the trusty CV carb on my XRL. Best of luck guys. I know the effort will eventually pay off, but dialing in a hotrod carburetor sounds like a HUGE lesson in patience and perseverance. My easily frustrated self would have already taken that thing out back and thrown it into the next zip code.
  8. I run the Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50 fully synthetic in my 650L. Never had any kind of problem. In the Winter months if I ride at all I switch to the Mobil 1 10w40 4T Racing, or whatever it is called. Nothing but Mobil 1 fully synthetic motorcycle oil for quite some time though. I trust the stuff.
  9. Itchykawa

    Chain lube

    When you change over to it you should completely clean and dry your chain first. It will not work on top of other things. I used WD40 and a toothbrush to thoroughly clean my chain (some will tell you this is bad and I am not going to argue) and then ran it dry on the street before applying the Dupont product for the first time. My chain was kinky and just about toast, and the teflon lube completely rejuvenated it. Now the chain stays completely clean and free-moving.
  10. Itchykawa

    Got a great deal on a CRF70

    I never got to see how it ran without the power commander and exhaust tip. Would these 2 parts make a noticeable difference?
  11. I just bought my 9 year old an '07 CRF70 for $650. He's on the small side and just came off a 50. The 70 fits him perfectly. The bike had 95% Starcross tires and had never been dropped. It came with a like new Fox chest protector, a new pair of O'neal boots (still had the tags hanging on them), a like new O'neal helmet that matches the bike and his current O'neal gear, a BBR power commander (still in the package), a new set of sprockets (14 T front), and a BBR performance exhaust tip (still in the package). It was advertized for $900, but it ran like $#!+ and the dude had had 4 or 5 potential buyers walk away because of it. I recognized the problems were fuel/air related and, after some serious bickering, got it cheap enough. I went straight to the dealership and bought a can of carburetor cleaner, an air filter, a plug, and a chain. - total $40 with tax. I went home, drained the tank, and poured in new, alcohol-free gas. The air filter looked like it had a swallow's nest inside, but the intake was clean as a whistle. I then blew stale gas chunks out of every carburetor passage and jet. I installed the filter, chain, sprockets, plug, exhaust tip, and power commander. After a couple of hours of work it fired up on the first kick and went straight into a 1500 RPM "idle". I grabbed a screwdriver and cranked the idle screw a couple of turns and it settled down and runs as good as it looks. It is going to need brake shoes sometime this year, but I think I got a great deal. This bike was truly a diamond in the rough.
  12. Itchykawa

    Pivot Works 650L RW bearing kit discontinued?

    THANKS! That was quick.
  13. Itchykawa

    Chain lube

    Try this: http://www2.dupont.com/Consumer_Lubricants/en_US/products/lubricants.html I buy the stuff in the blue can at Lowes for $4 and change. It goes on like water and quickly evaporates to leave only a thin film of teflon. It is so slippery even dust won't stick to it and the chain remains perfectly clean. The can that is advertized for chains is the same thing, but a bit more concentrated and twice the price. I have been biking for 40 years and this is the best stuff I have found. Never have to clean your chain again. I use it on everything, but it is by far the best dirt bike lube I have found. If there is a downside it is that it needs to be applied more often.
  14. I couldn't get a Pivot Works rear wheel bearing kit from my usual source so I went to their website and it says "unavailable". What gives? I don't have a good bearing supplier nearby and besides, I need everything else too.
  15. Yeah, I know it. But I think even cops on the internet have little sympathy for these bozos that have nothing better to do than worry the crap out of them about stupid stuff.