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About ronbuell

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    I'm just glad I can swing a leg over the seat at my age

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  1. ronbuell

    CRF250X forks on YZ250F

    Oh hey Les, that reminds me, I have some hand guard plastics in black for you. Intended to get them to you a few weeks ago.
  2. ronbuell

    Wr250f 07 carb leak question

    Depends on what parts phish you're looking at, but yeah that the o-ring pack to seal that fuel stem. I've seen them leak before. Harbor Freight o-rings might work, or take them to auto parts store and get fuel proof o-rings to fit.
  3. ronbuell

    DIY Flexible Fuel Screw

    Added a couple more photos. Tried to add a movie clip but not allowed.
  4. Lap times on a track..... bike... hands down.
  5. I struck up a conversation with a guy on a KXF400 at the trail one day. He was practicing and going really fast. The trails are 50" two track, 17 mile loop. As I was following him I noticed he was drifting, hanging off the inside with his thighs on the seat, then flipping over to the other side for an opposite turn... really physical for him. I was running 2nd and some 3rd, fast lap for me and he was leading, I was getting face dusted. Not pros either one of us, fun for a while. Nice guy... respected his handling that heavy quad like that. Only time I've ever seen a quad guy run a bike pace.
  6. Like others posted above, I also ride a 4 Wheeler to do trail maintenance. Mine weighs 593 lbs. I also ride a YZ250F, that weights 219 lbs. Judgement dictates that I go slower on the 4 wheeler than on the bike, because if I take a tumble on the 4 wheeler, that 593 pounder can pound me to a pulp.
  7. ronbuell

    Yz250f has me stumped

    I've ridden the KTM 200EXC and I know what you're talking about, never owned that model. I have owed a 95 and 98 300EXC. The WR250F makes a better trail bike and has a lot more low end torque than the 200EXC. I do have a YZ250F set up for trail riding, but hills and rocks are not its forte.
  8. ronbuell

    Re valving a yz250f

    When you take your head to the shop to have the seats cut, take it whole; with your cams, caps, buckets, and shims as it would be on the engine. You will be replacing your guide seals as well; have the mechanic do that unless you do it before it goes. Ask your mechanic to do the shims since he'll be in there. He will take his time and do it correctly. When you get the head back, you will be removing the cams to reinstall the head anyway. Pull the buckets and read the shim values and record the value on each location so when you do a check, you will know how much its moved. I set mine up loose after a replacement because they will close up slightly. The shim value will change, but there in no way to know how much. You can do the shim replacement, but it takes a micrometer and metric feeler gauges. There are plenty of youtube videos on it. BTW, these valves are Titanium and should NEVER be ground. That will cut thru the thin hardened layer and ruin a brand new valve. You don't want to destroy $280 worth of new valves in 10 minutes.
  9. ronbuell

    Yz250f has me stumped

    You're welcome, glad it worked out. Like William, I was having a difficult time following and determining your issue. What you described indicated several items to check, which would rule them out in order. They aren't easy to check because getting to the carb to check takes work, and in my opinion, the carb needs to be in your hands to verify and make repairs or changes. When we try to help people online like this, we are at a disadvantage by distance, and not having the item in front of us. We don't know how experience the poster is either. There's a difference in an impatient 15yo and somebody like me who started riding and working on bikes in 1973. We can't accurately diagnose noises by description or video either. So we're depending on the OP to give an accurate description, and not make several changes at once or wild statements. William is very knowledgeable, experienced, and is an excellent tech in his own right. He lives in my home state, and even though I've never met him face to face, I would not hesitate to take a bike to him. I've had several discussions with him thru the blog here and in PMs on here, very professional. His was the first time I'd seen the process on setting the fuel screw on Yamaha 250F bikes... and it works; which is why I recommended it. If it doesn't, then there's another issue preventing it from working or something else is going on. With the settings in here, he knows when someone has mentioned him in a post, and I'm the one who mentioned his process to you. Only reason I did mention it is because bog and hanging idle issues can be related if slide height, fuel screw, and jetting are off. I've dealt with several bikes recently that bogged and needed leak jet changed, accelerator pump timing adjusted, pilot jet changed, and main needle height changed. Only item I didn't mention you check was float height. When I'm having a carb issue, I check all those things while I have it in my hands; its just easier to verify while you have it out than to put it back in and have to pull it back out and check it. Then I get it back together and go thru the fuel screw process to verify the setting. Oh I know where it was because I check before I take it apart, but I still go thru the process. AND, with an extended fuel screw, I can adjust on the trail during a ride too. Good Luck!
  10. ronbuell

    Re valving a yz250f

    Have them cut. $100 well spent
  11. ronbuell

    2002 wr250f build how much power am i getting

    OK so you did swap the starter
  12. ronbuell

    Straighten Handlebars??

    One bar broken
  13. ronbuell

    2002 wr250f build how much power am i getting

    You sure it was 03 crank you put in your 02? The 03 crank is wider due to the starter and clutch assembly that's not on the 02.
  14. ronbuell

    Headlight & tail light question

    Chuck, is your switch double throw?
  15. ronbuell

    Yz250f has me stumped

    Check your hot start to make sure its working properly. Pull the lever, then release it. Should snap back. Turn the bars full lock each way with the bike idling. There should be no change in idle speed. If it changes, cable may be improperly routed. With bike idling, pull the hot start. It should idle up when pulled. Check the plunger end of the hot start to make sure the rubber seal in the end is not damaged. It can be replaced. Also, the plastic mount that screws into the carb body can get cross threaded and it may not be fully seated. They make aluminum replacements for these. ^^ what William1 said. You can clear a clogged pilot jet with a small guitar string or a wire from a wire brush. Replacement is best but works in a pinch for testing. Set the slide height to .049", or when you look thru the throat with carb pointed to the light, you should see a small gap at the bottom of the throat, just a little light. Fuel screw should be running between 2.5 and 3 turns out. Search William1 fuel screw procedure and adjust the fuel screw. Check your accelerator pump squirt. With the carb off and fuel in the bowl, look for the small brass tube at the bottom of the carb and move the throttle wheel. Fuel should squirt out of the tube straight toward the intake side. Fuel should not hit the slide. And the squirt should not be delayed. Adjust the screw near the throttle wheel to adjust timing. O-ring mod will tighten up the linkage. There's plenty of youtube videos on this. If the the stream is weak, the leak jet may be too large, and need replaced with a smaller one.