Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About ronbuell

  • Rank
    TT Addict

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    I'm just glad I can swing a leg over the seat at my age

Recent Profile Visitors

2,119 profile views
  1. ronbuell

    Braking in a wr250f

    This is the way I do it. 30 min, up and down the rpm range, no high rpm, light load. That means essentially 1st and 2nd gear. Change the oil. Another 30 min, up and down the rpm range, some load with 3rd gear. Change the oil. 1 hr, run it hard. Its good to go after that.
  2. ronbuell

    06' YZ450F hard to kick

    "That pin looks "in" at that moment because on the other side of the cam, which we can not see in the video, the pin is still sticking "out"." Doh! Senior moment... you're right! Should be really smooth, easy in - easy out.... should not stick in either location. I can see it where you rock it back and forth now. Its working properly. No, if the pin sticks inside the cam, then you have full compression to kick against. You will not be able to kick it thru to start it. Timing looks correct according to just the dots on the sprockets... and assuming your timing mark on the flywheel is lined up. So, that makes your issue a new one. Either your kick technique, or your fuel screw is not set right, or your pilot jet is off. So discuss your starting technique: Hot and Cold. Cold start should be: 3 wicks of the throttle, set choke, push the kick lever thru until you feel it come up to TDC and go Bump Bump, bring the lever all the way up, DO NOT touch the throttle or crack it any, and kick it thru with a strong solid kick. Hot starting, NO throttle wicks, no choke, pull the hot start, push the kick lever thru until you feel it come up to TDC and go Bump Bump, bring the lever all the way up, do not touch the throttle or crack it any, and kick it thru with a strong solid kick. One or two kicks is all it should take to start it if its properly tuned. Friends own the 450, and I've ridden and started them, and they all start easy just like the 250. A lot of people used to riding a 2T, and giving a little throttle will let their throttle hand twitch while kicking; and you can't do that with these bikes. They are really finicky on that.
  3. ronbuell

    06' YZ450F hard to kick

    Notchy, catching, hanging, ..... patato patatto... I seldom us that term to describe a mechanical malfunction too, but it seemed to fit this time. What intended to convey is that you can feel it when it catches. The Hot Cam I had would just lock up and not move. Then you could tap it, and it would move easily 3-4 times in a row, then just hang up again. Then other times you could just touch it and it would snap out. Darnedest thing I've ever seen. Work on these things long enough, and you'll see some odd stuff.
  4. ronbuell

    06' YZ450F hard to kick

    The auto de-comp mechanism works off of centrifugal force. The flyweight is held in toward the center of the cam on the sprocket side of the shaft when the engine is not running... as in kicking or stopped. Your video is showing a good position to see the pin position. It does NOT show the cam timing at TDC with punch marks and alignment with the head surface. That's from the sprocket side. I've actually had two failures of the auto de-comp mechanism. One was a Hot Cam where the pin stuck in the IN position intermittently.... due to lack of lubrication and tight tolerances. They replaced it free. The second failure I had was on a stock cam. The spring on the fly-weight actually broke where it hooks into the fly-weight, leaving the fly-weight out all the time. With the weight out, the pin stays in all the time. The pin should NEVER be in unless the engine is running fast enough for the weight to sling out, thus pulling the pin IN. The pin works by releasing compression, lifting on exhaust valve bucket down as it passes that bucket. A pin passing the bucket when IN doesn't release any compression, thus full compression. So, an intermittently working auto de-comp mechanism indicates lack of lubrication on the system, worn mechanism, or too tight tolerance on the mechanism. An auto de-comp that never works indicates its stuck, or has a broken spring. I fixed my broken spring by bending a new hook in it, and hooking it back over the fly-weight. Work since then without problems. Check.... with valve cover off and looking from the sprocket side of the engine, go to the exhaust cam, set the timing at TDC on compression stroke. Flip the fly-weight back and forth and see if it hangs up or is notchy in any way or if the spring is hanging on something or is partially broken off and not giving full pressure against the weight.
  5. ronbuell

    06' YZ450F hard to kick

    On the video you can see the auto de-comp pin is not working properly. At 4 sec, the pin is out like its supposed to be. At 10 sec its in; supposed to be out. Any time the engine is not running, the pin is out. Centrifugal force moves the weight out, and the pin moves in. I had a HOT Cam on an 03 YZ250F that did the same thing. I took a pic of the weight stuck out and emailed that to Steve Beaver at Hot Cams. They replaced it free. He may not be there now, but contact Hot Cam. They are good with customer service.
  6. cam chain worn.... also small sprocket on crankshaft. time for a total rebuild.
  7. ronbuell

    Throttle Cable Help

    If you still have the original cable, and you can weld/have a welder, you can fix it yourself. Go to a bicycle shop and get some Jag Wire bicycle cable. Weld on the ends from the original or make some up. I make the barrel ends from small steel rod. I fixed one about 10 years ago on my 03 YZ250F and it still works fine.
  8. ronbuell

    Chain noise on YZ250F

    Dropsix, Yes, that is normal. The chain will slap like that since there is a long distance between the countershaft and rear sprocket. It will also happen under partial load and rear braking.
  9. ronbuell

    First bike

    While the WR is much more forgiving, that 450 has some of the best forks around. Adjust the oil level and clickers and they will be awesome for trail riding. The rear may need a little more tinkering to make it tail ready... softer spring may be required depending on your weight. I personally know a young guy who bought a YZ450F as his second bike after a KDX200. He now has a YZ250 2T. Another friend has the YZ450F, Rekluse, softer seat foam, fork and shock tune, Tubeless, and I've ridden it. Awesome bike, forgiving IF.... you watch your throttle hand and go easier on it. So... it is a bike you can grow into. I'd look into a second bike to learn on like a CRF230. Its perfect and can be used for a loaner or second if one bike is down for maintenance. Just be careful, upshift early, and don't grab a huge handful of throttle. Do put a little more slack in the throttle cable to keep you from whiskey throttling it. Keep up on the maintenance on it, and make sure the air filter is clean, sealed, and change the oil every 5 hrs.
  10. ronbuell

    Need help with my wr250f timing/not starting

    Several steps. Double check the timing marks on the flywheel truly indicate TDC. With flywheel mark lining up with peep hole mark, drop a wire or screwdriver down the spark plug hole, then rock the crank back and forth a little each way. You will feel the wire go up, stop, and drop back down. Top position will be TDC and should match the timing in the peep hole. Second, With the flywheel verified, look at the timing marks on the cams. The dots that should line up with the top of the head mating surface, should NOT be off..... any... at all. Third, Remove the flywheel and inspect the small sprocket on the crankshaft. The tooth profile should match that of the cam sprockets. They should NOT be sharp and pointed. Sharp pointed small sprocket is worn and indicated the cam chain is out of spec and has already damaged the small sprocket. The only repair at that point is to replace the crank because Yamaha, in a cost saving move, did not make that a replaceable part like Honda did. If all timing marks line up properly, then the only other possibility is that the shims are out of spec. If you ask how I know.... been there, lived it.
  11. ronbuell

    2002 yzf250 issues

    Did you set up the valve shims, or did the shop shim it? Prob the valve clearance is off a little.
  12. ronbuell

    2001 WR-250F Maintenance and Inspection:

    The heritage of the WR is the 125 YZ... race bike. So yes there is more maintenance involved. Id check the linkage and swingarm bearings and grease them. Change engine oil every 5 hrs of operation. When you service/clean the air filter, make sure the seal on the lip is clean, not torn, and grease it so it seals. I use Belray filter oil, but you can search and use what you want. Its easier to have multiple filters on hand and just swap out when its time. Easy way to oil one it put oil on it, and put it in a baggie and squeeze the oil thru it. Put the fresh one in a new baggie and save it. Do the second one and install it. Save the oil you squeezed out in the baggie for next time. Search TT for other maintenance ideas. The bike is reliable if maintained properly. Enjoy.
  13. ronbuell

    How old is too old to ride dirt bikes

    Gator, According to the Hurt Report, Dirt Riders are under-represented in street bike accidents. The take away was that dirt experience sharpens your control skills, and they directly transfer to street riding... getting out of the way and braking control.
  14. ronbuell

    Bike fitment

    AB, Ergonomics is fitting the bike to your body, and its been discussed in every forum I can remember back to 73 when I started riding (magazines back then). Personally I like the Windom in a ProTaper bar, or the YZ High in the 7/8" bar. Both of those are a straighter bar, less bend back or cock on the wrist. I'm 6'1", so doing the adapters on the ProTapers raises them, or I add risers 30mm to the 7/8" bars. I do a Guts Racing tall soft seat foam which adds a little seat height until you actually sit on it, then you crush it down and it holds you in there where you plant yourself. I will stand quite often and move around on the bike, and the bar risers help with the transition and my back doesn't cramp as much. Friend of mine is 6'4" and he used the Fastway lower footpegs on a YZ250. I rode his bike and felt like I was standing up 100% (he also used the Guts tall soft seat). William makes a great point. You have to set up the bar angle and the lever angle for your style and type of riding you will be doing. If standing more, the bars can be more forward and lever ends pointed more down. If you ride more seated, then your bars will more likely be rolled back more and the levers more level. I can tell by looking at a bike what kind or rider a person is and how fast they will be. Yep, the more sit down you are, the more the bars will be rolled back the higher the levers will be, and the slower you will be..... been there.... seen it. Also, you're less likely to be forward in the attack position and the more you will complain of arm pump, wrist fatigue, and back issues..... jus sayin...... Oh BTW, the KTM bars are the straightest ones if you look up the spec on them. I buy those if I see them.
  15. ronbuell

    oil sump bolt

    10x1.25 14 ft/lbs or 20 Nm